My new BX...
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Thread: My new BX...

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Jul 2005
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    Adelaide
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    Icon7 My new BX...

    Hi all,

    I recently bought a BX 19TRI on ebay, flew up to Sydney and drove it back to Adelaide. The seller was a great guy and he also had a very well turned out DS - my girlfriend suggested that I had bought the wrong car when she saw it. Many thanks to all who offered advice on BXes and pointed me towards this one.

    The car performed flawlessly on the drive back, and has since been getting me to work and back without any dramas. Fuel economy is definitely a strength: 8L/100km highway and 11L/100km to and from work in peak hour. It has plenty of up and go compared to the GS, overtaking is a breeze on the open road, though have yet to seriously challenge anyone at the lights as I'm a bit too gentle due to suspect gear linkages (getting replaced soon). Am already wondering what a well-sorted 16v would do .

    Naturally, for the age of the car, it has a few faults. Oil leak here, LHM leak there, damn rattly plastic interior, but nothing unexpected. Sunroof, windows and c/locking all work, air-con may work again someday, fans are slow but heater works well, bodywork and interior are in very good condition for its age. Overall, the BX is very well appointed and does its job well, although its styling may take a while to grow on me (has been described as a cross between a GS and a Sigma ). I am already impressed with parts availability and pricing - flow divider isn't cheap but the parcel shelf certainly was.

    On that note, I need some advice re. the flow divider. What is it that causes these to fail so regularly, or is the fault within the part? Apparently the warranty on reconditioned flow dividers is dependent on the rest of the hydraulic system being in good order. What do I need to get checked over before the new flow divider goes in? Isolated stories of these things lasting 6 months may point to other problems. The pump seems to be operating every 10 seconds or so, if that whooshing sound is the pump (the GS used to tick reassuringly to let me know when the pump was operating, BX doesn't). Could this be causing stress on other parts of the system, should accumulator or regulator be checked?

    Also, my car settles rather quickly - about 30 minutes for the back of the car, the front overnight - is this normal? Is this a sympton of the flow divider fault or something else?

    Thanks for your time and any advice you can offer. Bear in mind, I am not mechanically minded and I'm just trying to understand what my mechanic may tell me . I'll have to get him to do the sticky front strut trick - anyone know where can I find a step by step guide?

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    Cheers,

    Chris N

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quite a few questions:

    --rattling interior ... Suggest you buy a louder radio would be the best fix
    --slow interior fans ... I suggest they are not hitting high speed, or the 2nd fan isn't working. BX's have exceptional heating/cooling ability (especially to a GS and CX owner).
    --Flow devider ... Would you believe I've never had an issue with this. Your in Adelaide ?? I suggest you talk to Martin Bray, he's sure to rekit them or buy them as cheap as possibly.
    --Oil leak ?? Isn't the engine rebreather hoses on the front of the motor. I'd suggest replacing these as they break up and turn hard.
    --30minute settling at the rear is actually quite good for a BX, I wouldn't be concerned, they all leak internally through the brake valve (as do later CX's, the back of my CX will usually be down within a few hours, my BX would be 20minutes tops)..
    --10second cycle time, I'd check it's main accumulator checked before getting worried about anything else.

    The TRi in my experiance is exceptionally hardy, I ran mine from about 170,000 -- 280,000 for not much more than the cost of oil changes. It's now retired up the back needing the clutch looked at. The standard TRi has strange tuning doesn't it, it's like a dead flat torque/power band from near idle to it's redline. I was quite dissapointed when I first got it expecting it to really fly when the tacho hit 3500++rpm.... It actually makes the car really effortless and easy to drive. I was returning consistantly 44mpg with my wife comuting in it. She misses the light agile BX, as she reckons it was a hell of a lot more fun to drive than the 'sedate' slugomatic Xantia.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Glad you like the car and that it lives up to expectations. Probably the most maligned and underrated car Citroen have ever produced (with a Xantia running a close second).
    I'm pretty flat at present but I'll ad a bit to what Shane has posted as soon as I get the time.



    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Congratulations Nick,

    There are less and less BX's around Adelaide so it will be good to have another. Don't forget to join the local Cit Car club, great source of knowledge. After Aussie Frogs of course

    regards
    sean
    _____________________
    1996 XM 2.1 TD Exclusive

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by sdabel
    Congratulations Nick,
    Who's this Nick fella?

    Yes, am very happy with the car, especially when compared to cars of similar age, mileage and cost. Will definitely join the SACCC, at the very least it would give me an opportunity to drool over other Citroens.

    Thanks for the advice, Shane (yep, many questions and probably many more). I'm afraid, however, that a louder stereo would just make the plastic bits rattle and fall off even more than they do now . Have solved one rattle by taking the coins out of the little coin compartment . A well-placed parking ticket solved one of the dash rattles. Am thinking of a more permanent dodgy solution for all the rattles that involves some rubber stick-on tubing (like the gear you can put around household doors to seal draughts) squeezed in between the rattly bits - will give it a shot once the rain stops. I swear another crack appeared in the dash on the drive back from NSW.

    Engine rebreather hoses are a likely suspect - most of the oil is coming from the front. Actually saw a 16TRS in a car park yesterday, when it had gone there was quite a sizeable puddle of oil in the same position as mine puts its puddle, so probably common on cars this age. Will also get the accumulator checked.

    Cheers,

    Chris N

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Chris,

    The oil leak I saw was from the top of the engine leaking down the rear near the firewall. I'd be looking at replacing the rocker cover gasket - they have a tendency to go hard & start leaking at the rubber has no give any more - cheapish at around $25. From there follow where the oil went - rack bellows & drive shaft boots are common victims as well as the power steering ram bushes. Don't neglect these as dirt will get where it shouldn't and cause much wear & damage. The ram bushes going yuk will allow the ram to move enough to crack the pipes & lose all the LHM in a few kilometers - believe me I know this is true.

    The oil breather hoses, if they are cracked, will cause idle problems. It's easiest to buy an inlet manifold gasket & take it off to get access. Be careful with the hose from the bottom of the oil filler - it's about $80 new. These hoses are identical to a Peugeot 205 GTi, so shop around for the bits if you need them. Clean everything here while you are at it (get some $2 export degreaser & hose it down - can U guys still hose things? we can't in Sydney, not legally anyway), esp around the (leaking) flow divider. This way you can see just what is leaking & how much. From what I saw it was not a serious leak, so I'd just keep an eye on it. The front spheres & accumulator were new not long ago - might be worth finding out just when they were done.

    The gear linkages, if you can't get good 2nd hand ones, try some for a peugeot 306 - they are almost identical. Take the crook ones with you so you can match them up.

    Lastly, timing belt. Either get evidence of when it was last done or replace it.

    I'd expect that once these things are sorted you will have cheap reliable transport, certainly it took me maybe 3-4 months to sort mine out & it is now used every day with little more than regular servicing.

    Cheers,

    Barry.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    In my experience, most problems with Flow Diverters are that they eventually leak out of the plugs. If the rest of the hydraulic system is dirty and there are bits of rubber floating around, then I suppose you can block some of the small orifices in the FDV but otherwise most issues are leaks. I have bought an exchange one from Peter Raffles of Pleiades in Gayndah QLD (Tel/Fax 07 41612512) and I think he uses seals that take longer to start leaking than do the original Cit ones.

    Good luck with the BX TRi

    We are running 3 x BXs in our Family

    Regards,

    Ken W

  8. #8
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Ken,

    How much does Peter charge for a recon F/D?


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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