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  1. #1
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Default CX interior

    How do you get the front seats out, when the captive nuts in the floor have broke free, and started spinnig? I need to get the seats out, so I can replace the front carpets. Some @ģ$Ä hole has cut the carpet where the fuel computer lives, and the one on the drivers side, has worn through. It will also be a good oppertunity to put the height adjusting frame I have for a LHD car, onto the passenger seat. Hopefully, when this little problem is sorted, I can then take the car for a little spin up ther road, for the first time in 18 months!
    Hopefully weston89's workshop won't be too busy, so he might be able to do the welding for the MOT. john s

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    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    How do you get the front seats out, when the captive nuts in the floor have broke free, and started spinnig? I need to get the seats out, so I can replace the front carpets. Some @ģ$Ä hole has cut the carpet where the fuel computer lives, and the one on the drivers side, has worn through. It will also be a good oppertunity to put the height adjusting frame I have for a LHD car, onto the passenger seat. Hopefully, when this little problem is sorted, I can then take the car for a little spin up ther road, for the first time in 18 months!
    Hopefully weston89's workshop won't be too busy, so he might be able to do the welding for the MOT. john s


    Good to hear other people have these problems too. You need to grab the captive nuts from underneath the car with vice grips... I hope the threads aren't to rusty

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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  3. #3
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron


    Good to hear other people have these problems too. You need to grab the captive nuts from underneath the car with vice grips... I hope the threads aren't to rusty

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    They are fairly sh***y!! It was a peice of cake with the other car that your fuel computer came from, I just cut the floor with a 9 inch grinder I don't really want to do that with this car though I will invest in some stainless steel bolts when I put the seats back in. john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

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    1000+ Posts cruiserman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    They are fairly sh***y!! It was a peice of cake with the other car that your fuel computer came from, I just cut the floor with a 9 inch grinder I don't really want to do that with this car though I will invest in some stainless steel bolts when I put the seats back in. john s
    Not sure that that would be a good idea, I think you will find a requirement for High Tensile bolts to hold the seat down, Stainless will most likely not meet the standard.
    Neil
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  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! ARCHRIVAL's Avatar
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    Icon12 My Story

    Smiffy had exactly the same problem last week with the turbo ie getting everything out to do the welding .
    Proceedure that worked for me
    1. Tried and failed cage nuts spinning
    2. Under the car with wire brush on grinder get rid of all the proof cote shit
    3. Deblock oil by inotec squirt squirt wait one day
    4. Large phillips screwdriver shoved up in the gap between the cage nut and its cage
    5. Gently gently back and forth with socket bit on air rachet set to very gentle
    6. Stop for more penitration (don't you love that word )
    7. Back and forth again 4 hours later bolts out
    Was I just lucky or what
    Suggest big dollop of never sieze and grease when their put back and if you can get stainless set screws in that size do it when you look at the structure of the seat and the size of the bolts I think they could be garden variety galv mild steel and still be over designed
    Well hope you have success a lot of patience and time and no rash decisions
    BX 16v 89, I Renault Floride 62, Volvo P1800 68, Aston Martin DB6 68, Daimler 250V8 68, Jaguar XJC 76, Falcon Ute XL 62, Falcon Ute XY 4WD, Jeep Grand Larado 03, Mazda 6 Wagon 05, inter 483 tractor 86, makita cordless drill CX TURBO its dented D Special 1 62 ID192000 Xantia V6 2000 Cadillac STS stolen by the princess,KANGA 720DL LOADER

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    I just peeled the crappy cage back with a screwdriver, and put vice grips on the bottom nut and used the allen key and they came off fine.
    On re-installation, just reversed the process, and bent the gage back into place.

    The drivers sear is an absolute nightmare to put back in, ( I did it 3 times!!)
    because the bottom rails spread due to the springs which operate the seat height adjustment.
    You have to set the height adjustment so that either the back or front holes line up, put the bolts in, then adjust the height to get the other ones lined up.(well thats how I did it anyway!!)
    Terry

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    Quote Originally Posted by doggiedog
    I just peeled the crappy cage back with a screwdriver, and put vice grips on the bottom nut and used the allen key and they came off fine.
    On re-installation, just reversed the process, and bent the gage back into place.

    The drivers sear is an absolute nightmare to put back in, ( I did it 3 times!!)
    because the bottom rails spread due to the springs which operate the seat height adjustment.
    You have to set the height adjustment so that either the back or front holes line up, put the bolts in, then adjust the height to get the other ones lined up.(well thats how I did it anyway!!)
    Terry
    have done this at least twice now - you need to borrow my assistant!

  8. #8
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruiserman
    Not sure that that would be a good idea, I think you will find a requirement for High Tensile bolts to hold the seat down, Stainless will most likely not meet the standard.
    I don't think there is such a requirement here, and besides, it would never be checked, even at MOT, which I will have to do prior to putting it back on the road. The only checks that would be done as far as the seats go are,
    that the seat is securely fixed to the floor, and that recline mechanism works properly. In other words, if the seat back collapses when you sit in it, the car will fail its test. john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    I don't think there is such a requirement here, and besides, it would never be checked, even at MOT, which I will have to do prior to putting it back on the road. The only checks that would be done as far as the seats go are,
    that the seat is securely fixed to the floor, and that recline mechanism works properly. In other words, if the seat back collapses when you sit in it, the car will fail its test. john s
    Hey Smiffy,

    who cares about an MOT ... The point being if the car is involved in an accident, we want that seat to stay bolted to the floor !!!!

    The seats are not to bad to get out of Aussie CX's, only Archrival and Smiffy have had the "enjoyment " of driving a car that's breathed the salty/rust/corroding UK air ... Aussie CX's are bloody easy in comparison

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  10. #10
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    I still don't think those bolts need to be tensile though. In an accident, the major stress will be on the seatbelt mountings. The only time I can think there would be any stress in the seat bolts themselves, is if a rear seat passenger hit the seat. The bolt I have in mind to use, would I'm quite sure cope with this.
    The main thing is, I want to use corrosion free bolts! john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    If you back the CX into something at high speed, or someone runs up the back of you at high speed, your whole bodyweight will be thown with incredible force into the seat NOT the seatbelt If those front seat bolts sheer off you'll be unrestrained as the seat will simply tilt back meaning you will not be contained *at all* by the seatbelt

    The seatbelt needs the seat to be there in order to keep you contained. I imagine the bolts holding the front of the seat down are critical for your safety in the event of a rear end collision.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  12. #12
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    If you back the CX into something at high speed, or someone runs up the back of you at high speed, your whole bodyweight will be thown with incredible force into the seat NOT the seatbelt If those front seat bolts sheer off you'll be unrestrained as the seat will simply tilt back meaning you will not be contained *at all* by the seatbelt

    The seatbelt needs the seat to be there in order to keep you contained. I imagine the bolts holding the front of the seat down are critical for your safety in the event of a rear end collision.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Hmmm, some food for thought there.
    I will have to look carefully next time I'm down the fastenings company. I'm sure they will have exactly what I'm looking for. john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    Hmmm, some food for thought there.
    I will have to look carefully next time I'm down the fastenings company. I'm sure they will have exactly what I'm looking for. john s
    Hey Guys, I don't know why Neil thinks stainless steel bolts would be inferior. The standard screws used in "normal" cars seat mountings are just mild steel. The allen screws used by Citroen are high tension, but Stainless steel is pretty damn tough stuff....just try cutting the stuff with a hacksaw and you'll see what I mean.
    I'd reckon it's perfectly adequate for the job.
    I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

    Cheers...George 1/8th.

  14. #14
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Well guys, I had a great evening attacking my car once again, I managed to get 3 of the 4 bolts out, but the 4th will have to be cut off with a grinder, as the allen head was rounded.
    And, for the first time since I've owned the car, the ABS works, wooooooohoooooooooo!!!!
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

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