improving traction brakes
  • Help
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bungendore, NSW
    Posts
    89

    Default improving traction brakes

    Has anyone experience in improving Light 15/Big 15 brakes that they can pass on?

    Advertisement


    I am proposing to put an ID 19 motor and gearbox into my Big 15. I've been told that it is possible to fit the drum brakes off the rear of a DS or ID safari to the front of a traction, to upgrade the brakes.

    Has anyone done this? Or found any other good way of improving traction brakes, without doing too much violence to the character or look of the car?

    One issue with using safari drums is that the wheel studs are at different spacings...so either need to use DS/ID wheels or major modification to the drum to resituate the wheels studs. Using a brake booster may be another option.

    Any info would be welcome!

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    602

    Default

    I drove a Light 15 with ID motor and box for quite a while. If the traction brakes are set up properly they are adequate. With modern linigs you should get good performance from the brakes, but remember that the traction drums are only just up to the job. Once modification is to have self centeing shoes by modifying the bottom mounts, I think there was some info on this in the CCOCA newsletter. I can look it up if you want more info.

    If you go safari drums, then you may as well use the D rims as well and use 15 inch tyres. With a D gearbox you wouldn't loose anything on gearing, and the tyres are half the price (or less) than 165x400. The safari shoes would be wider than the traction shoes so you may have to change backing plates as well, and you would have issues with attaching the safari drums to the traction front axle.


    Mark McKibbon has a Light 15 with D motor and box, he would be worth asking about braking [performance

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Paul Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Camperdown, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    624

    Default

    From what I have seen most people add a booster of some sort if they upgrade the engine - as Peter says setting the brakes up is quite a job and any mods you can do to make it easier are worthwhile - there was an article in the UK magazine (Floating Power?) that detailed a conversion to make adjustment easier - it may be the same one as in the COCCA mag.

    There is a copy in the NSW Club library which I can chase up for you if you like.

    Paul
    Paul Smith

    1974 DS23 EFI BW Auto
    1974 G Special 1220


    http://www.simplicitas.com.au

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bungendore, NSW
    Posts
    89

    Default Traction brake mods

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Smith
    From what I have seen most people add a booster of some sort if they upgrade the engine - as Peter says setting the brakes up is quite a job and any mods you can do to make it easier are worthwhile - there was an article in the UK magazine (Floating Power?) that detailed a conversion to make adjustment easier - it may be the same one as in the COCCA mag.

    There is a copy in the NSW Club library which I can chase up for you if you like.

    Paul
    Thank you both for your responses. I have in the meantime seen the CCOCA article on the Roger Williams adaption (and kit) from the UK. I assume that is the same as the UK magazine article? It involves installing a kit on the bottom of the brake shoe mounts which enables the shoes to slide vertically to self-centre, making it unnecessary to centre them using the special citroen tools. The kit costs something in excess of $1000, it appears, including freight, so I might just go for a booster at this point, or see whether it is possible to make a simpler modification to achieve the same result...

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    602

    Default

    The brake centering tool performs a different function to the booster. If the shoes are not centered correctly, the brakes will pull to one side and/or shudder.

    The booster will apply a higher pressure to the wheel cylinders and in turn the brake shoes, and exacerbate any problems in the centering.

    Two comments on centering

    1. When I installed new shoes a while back i got a steel ruler and measured carefully from the axle to the outer edge of the shoe at thew bottom and top with the snails adjusted fully in, and then adjusted the cam at the bottom to get the same measurement to within 1mm. This seemed to work ok. It acheives the same as the brake centering tool but not as precise or easy to do.

    2. Mel Carey said that if you get the shoes radiiused to the drums by the brake reliners then you only have to set the adjusting cam at the bottom to the minimum setting and it will be fine.

    You also have to remember this is a 50 or more years old car with 4 wheel drums, it is not a modern 4wheel disc car, drive accordingly and you will be fine, even with the more powerful engine. Also consider that with the engine mod you aren't changing the weight substantially, so braking performance at legal speeds would be similar before and after.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •