BX16v Steering Wobble
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  1. #1
    twm
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    Default BX16v Steering Wobble

    Hey There

    Anyone had experience with a a wobble in the steering. To describe I drove From Sydney to Coffs along the fabulous Pacific Hwy (not) and on some sections where it was quite bumpy I seemed to be fighting a left/right movement in the steering wheel, bump woble woble, bump wobble wobble, The car seems to track straight but it was definatley unconfortable.

    Also when backing up and braking there are some funny noises from the front end a clunk here and there.

    Obviuosly need to do some front end work or find a good front end mech.

    Any suggestions appreciated.

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    BTW averaged 7.7 litres per hundred k, very impressive as I was not standing still either.


    Terry
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  2. #2
    UFO
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    Could be a lower ball joint, hardy disc (connects steering column to PS unit) or the rubbers on the PS ram are buggered. Better still, it could be all three!
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    twm
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO
    Could be a lower ball joint, hardy disc (connects steering column to PS unit) or the rubbers on the PS ram are buggered. Better still, it could be all three!
    Thanks

    felt more like she was fighting rather than taking up slack, very odd, an it hard to hold the wheel still. I have tried the old wheels off the ground and try and test for movement but all seems ok. Might take more than hand strength to show what it is.


    Terry
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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    The rack end will cause a bit of wobble along with a slight knock.
    Rattles in BX front ends are fairly common. The slack mechanics don't refit the retaining clip/springs properly which in itself can create a bit of noise as will using non genuine pads. A lot of "knocks" also come from partially seized ball joints in the drop links and these can be easily freed up and lubed.

    Here's a write up on the procedure; quite simple really; about 20 minutes a side.

    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/snippets/bx_clunks.htm

    Another thing also is the pinion seals. This is detailed here (also from Citroentech Links page)

    http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxor.../m23/m23e.html

    but having done this job, I am aware of a couple of things Yohsuhke and his mates missed and a couple of tricks to make it all work much simpler. The Hardydisc is at the bottom of the steering column just above the pinion and has been known to split. How are the spheres too? Not getting down and tending to hit the corrugations a bit harshly by any chance?

    BTW, did you use the tricks I suggested when driving the car on the open road??


    Alan S
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    Bloody hell, Al. My 405 has started making some minor clunks in the last couple of months. I might have a go at the drop link thing when I do the steering rack. Cheers!

    BTW Terry, I have the name of that guy with the Chryslers for you if you're interested. He's more than happy for you to email him (in fact, he'd love you to - he has a real passio for them and loves discussing them). PM me if you're interested.

    Cheers

    Stuey


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  6. #6
    twm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    The rack end will cause a bit of wobble along with a slight knock.
    Rattles in BX front ends are fairly common. The slack mechanics don't refit the retaining clip/springs properly which in itself can create a bit of noise as will using non genuine pads. A lot of "knocks" also come from partially seized ball joints in the drop links and these can be easily freed up and lubed.

    Here's a write up on the procedure; quite simple really; about 20 minutes a side.

    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/snippets/bx_clunks.htm

    Another thing also is the pinion seals. This is detailed here (also from Citroentech Links page)

    http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxor.../m23/m23e.html

    but having done this job, I am aware of a couple of things Yohsuhke and his mates missed and a couple of tricks to make it all work much simpler. The Hardydisc is at the bottom of the steering column just above the pinion and has been known to split. How are the spheres too? Not getting down and tending to hit the corrugations a bit harshly by any chance?

    BTW, did you use the tricks I suggested when driving the car on the open road??


    Alan S

    Hi Alan

    Imagine a third hand on the steering wheel that gives it a wobble, bump wobble twice, bump wobble twice and hard to hold the wheel straight and definatley not comfortable. Only on bad road bits. It dosnt but it is as if the wheels remain straight and the body moves from side to side hence you are trying to hold the body by the steering wheel, quit a bit of force there, I will have to check out this disc thing in case there is a problem, but as mentioned if feels like a force coming back up the steering gear than a slackness. Notice that one of the original tyres (replaced now) on the front looked like it had been running with about 5 psi for 20000km the out side edges on the tyre where neary bald for about 1.5" in equally from both sides of the tyre while the middle was ok. I put this down to underinflation, but maybe its an indicator of soemthing else. The car tracks straight and dosnt pull left or right.

    The clunk when backing may be as suggested and I read your artical on lubricating the struts. I do have some stickyness there when they rise. I will also check the drop links. I suppose if one side was locking or sticking badly it may give the effect as mentioned, as the geometry changes unequally it transfers the result back to the steering.

    Peter did tell me that he used some different model spheres to try and soften the ride??? not sure which ones he said now, but could find out, I Havnt quite come to grips with spheres just yet. Peter also said he did the front rotors. Judging by the hose clamps I hope he got everthing tight. (sorry Pete no offence)

    I have used some of your traffic tips and they work a treat, but have missed the open road ones, but what a great drive, I love my 16v more and more, it just keeps on suprising. - Do Tell about the open road tips. On the way back I basically drove in top gear all the way, very nice indeed, gave chase to a couple of newer v8s and reckon I would have beat them given a bit more experiience with the car and less traffic, its nice to annoy BMW drivers who for some strange reason HAVE TO BE IN FRONT REGARDLESS. I just let them go knowing full well they cant really drive anyway.

    It was interesting that I started to get a stop light from about 4500 upwards. I could not find any reason but I put a drop of LHM in the resovoir just on spec and the stop light moved up to about 5500rpm, this is curious. Does the fluid level go down as revs go up ???? It may be me but I thought the ride improved after the top up as well.

    Have you heard the song by Queen, " Im in love with my car" ?

    I really want to do my best to get everting running up to spec on this one.


    Terry
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  7. #7
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Have you tried taking your wheels to a tyre place, to have them balanced? If the wheels are not properly balanced, that will cause wheel wobble!
    Spin up a gyroscope, and move your hand, you can feel forces resisting your movement. Your car wheels are doing the same thing, which is why balancing is important. john s
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  8. #8
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    It shouldn't rattle & bump or shake. But the bloody things do follow cambers... It sounds like your complaining about it following cambers

    If your used to a CX, DS, GS, SM .... etc.... You will not like it much, but you do get used to it (after all most cars follow cambers except for the early Cit's). The Xantia follows cambers too, but not as badly as the BX does.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: REPLACE THE HARDYDISK !!! Mine looked really ropey the first time I was under there and spotted it (you now the ffffffffaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkk, look a that.... While you feel you blood near run cold --My wife has been doing 110+km/h everywhere in this car and it looked like the steering wheel to rack connection is only held together by a few fragments of rubber ). The cars steering improved noticibly once the hardydisc was replaced.
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  9. #9
    twm
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    Have you tried taking your wheels to a tyre place, to have them balanced? If the wheels are not properly balanced, that will cause wheel wobble!
    Spin up a gyroscope, and move your hand, you can feel forces resisting your movement. Your car wheels are doing the same thing, which is why balancing is important. john s

    Thnaks but not a balance issue


    Terry
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  10. #10
    twm
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    It shouldn't rattle & bump or shake. But the bloody things do follow cambers... It sounds like your complaining about it following cambers

    If your used to a CX, DS, GS, SM .... etc.... You will not like it much, but you do get used to it (after all most cars follow cambers except for the early Cit's). The Xantia follows cambers too, but not as badly as the BX does.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: REPLACE THE HARDYDISK !!! Mine looked really ropey the first time I was under there and spotted it (you now the ffffffffaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkk, look a that.... While you feel you blood near run cold --My wife has been doing 110+km/h everywhere in this car and it looked like the steering wheel to rack connection is only held together by a few fragments of rubber ). The cars steering improved noticibly once the hardydisc was replaced.
    Thanks, I will have a good look at the hardydisk, diffinatley an oscillation as opposed to following a chamber, I know what thats like.

    Regards

    PS I lots of driving experience...........


    Terry
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