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Thread: XM Problems

  1. #1
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Default XM Problems

    I bought my XM in August last year and really love the car.
    The previous owners abuse caught up with me and the 1st gear would not engage in auto . The repair people discovered a hole in the gear box- not too neatly patched up. $NZ4200.00 later we were a happy couple again.
    We did lhe narmal little things like changing diskpads etc. but then I notice the bonnet is bent! The rubber Bush?mounting? at the top of the McPherson strut has disintegrated (Rally ambitions?)
    At this stage the Questions are:

    1)If I remove the strut will I loose pressure in the Sphere?(when I undo the top big nut

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    2)Can any body help with a 2nd hand rubber?

    3)Is this a common problem on Citroen

    This is my first Ciroen and I am on a steep learning curve and the school fees are high
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    First up; do not under any circumstances drive that car or you'll either have an accident or cause more damage.

    Check out here for further details and get back to us when you have.
    Removing the spheres is no problem. Just depressurise the system. A sphere is just doing the job of a spring and once depressurised will not dump the gas or the LHM.

    Better have a read here too as it may explain a few things simpler than we can.

    http://web.actwin.com/toaph/citroen/work/work.html


    Good cars, just stick with it.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Hi Johan,

    Out of interest surley your XM is not a 2004 model? How do you go with sourcing parts for it in NZ?

    regards
    sean
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    1996 XM 2.1 TD Exclusive

  4. #4
    UFO
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    Sean

    XMs are more abundant in NZ than they are here. 2l and diesel available too.

    Johan

    Also read this thread with my story about struts etc and some pics of a rusted Xantia strut from UK.

    Good luck with it.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO
    Sean

    XMs are more abundant in NZ than they are here. 2l and diesel available too.

    Good luck with it.
    Probably cheaper for me to fly to NZ for parts than to get them via Citroen Australia.

    But on a more serious note if Citroen support diesels in NZ then I don't see why they won't supply parts to Australia.

    regards
    sean
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  6. #6
    OLS
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    Iknow that this post doesnt belong here but i need urgent help!!!
    Is anyone of you machanic that knows XM in details ?
    i have to open the LHM oil pump somehow , i tried on many ways but the damned thing wont unscrew , did anyone had problem like me?

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Hi Ols,

    Try the yahoo XM-List and the Andyspares forum as there are lots of XM owners there. I could be wrong but I thought the hydraulic pump was pretty much sealed for life, should not be too hard for you to get a 2nd hand one from fleaBay if you don't want to buy new.

    regards
    sean
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  8. #8
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Hi Guys
    Firs of all, a BIG thank you for all the advice and support with my XM's suspension problem. In NZ a warning has just come out for all WOF testers to pay special attention to XM and Xantia suspention upper mounts (I had noting to do with that!)
    At the moment the car is still an blocks and the top mounts in Auckland some where to be re-vulcanised(I hope its the right word). Will keep you posted.
    I am not to sure on how to bleed the system after repairs but will ask around, maybe bribe a mechanic.
    Regards
    Johan
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Uga Boga's Avatar
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    Your signature says 2004 Citroen XM?

    I never knew the XM is still in production!!
    407 3.0L Exclusive (2007)

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  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Icon14

    Hi Johan,

    Are you re using the exisiting mounts? I would love to hear more about this- reliability, cost etc. I suspect mine need doing but Cit Australia ask silly money for new ones.

    Bleeding is not difficult, just open the bleed valve (12mm spanner I think) located on the main accumulator. Only trick on the XM with hydractive is to be sure that the center valves are not energised (someone jump in if I have this the wrong way around).

    Usual precautions of never being under the car when you do this apply.......
    _____________________
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  11. #11
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uga Boga
    Your signature says 2004 Citroen XM?

    I never knew the XM is still in production!!
    Apology's suddenly the whole car looks older
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  12. #12
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdabel
    Hi Johan,

    Are you re using the exisiting mounts? I would love to hear more about this- reliability, cost etc. I suspect mine need doing but Cit Australia ask silly money for new ones.

    Bleeding is not difficult, just open the bleed valve (12mm spanner I think) located on the main accumulator. Only trick on the XM with hydractive is to be sure that the center valves are not energised (someone jump in if I have this the wrong way around).

    Usual precautions of never being under the car when you do this apply.......
    Cit NZ ask NZ$1114.00plusGST each.
    Had it redone for $412.00 for both!
    Reliability is stil a ???? It appear well done and the material is suppose to be good. I will get the proper name and let you know
    Thanks for advice
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  13. #13
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdabel
    Hi Johan,

    Are you re using the exisiting mounts? I would love to hear more about this- reliability, cost etc. I suspect mine need doing but Cit Australia ask silly money for new ones.

    Bleeding is not difficult, just open the bleed valve (12mm spanner I think) located on the main accumulator. Only trick on the XM with hydractive is to be sure that the center valves are not energised (someone jump in if I have this the wrong way around).

    Usual precautions of never being under the car when you do this apply.......
    Hi sdabel
    can you ir someone explain more about the center valves and how to do what?
    I have everything back together and fiddle with the bleed valve ( I hope I have the right one). With the hight selector in High, Mid, and Low but the wheels wil not react.
    Love to hear from you
    Thanks
    Johan
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Hi Johan,

    In your case protecting the centre valves is a moot point as you have already bled the system. From memory you disconnect the batt for a few minutes to be sure that they are not energised.

    I have found Gabor's site helpfull for understanding hydoactive suspension.

    http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/...s/xmsuspn.html

    Have you primed the hydraulic system? This happened to me on a CX after bleeding the LHM- the pump just needs to be manually primed.

    regards
    sean
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  15. #15
    UFO
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    Accessing the pressure release valve/nut on a V6 XM is best done on a four post hoist (ie, wheels on the ramps) as you have to be under the car to access the bleed nut. Right PITA.

    XMs are a little more forgiving in the "bleed" stakes than CXs and DSs were but the only thing special I have ever done to mine is to bleed the brakes. For two purposes - to remove any air, which can be evident in delayed braking, esp the rear, and to remove old LHM from the lines. What usually comes out is black/olive coloured muck. Of course you also need weight on the rear hub to be able to bleed the rears as no weight on the hub means zilch brake distribution to the rear brakes so you open the nipple and nothing comes out. I achieved this by removing the wheel and putting a small trolley jack under the end of the swing arm and jacking it up until some weight was there. It works...
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  16. #16
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Hi Guys
    A special word of thanks again for all the support and Tecnical info.
    I am impresed how quick I got a response, thanks Sean, Craig and every body else.
    After reading the tecno from Craig I was very worried but today (Monday)I phoned My local Citroen-only breakers yard and asked him.
    XM is realy forgiving, get the car on the ground or as low as you can, and start her up. Done, she got up and all tested ok.
    Regards
    Happy Johan
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  17. #17
    Member Johan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johan
    Hi Guys
    A special word of thanks again for all the support and Tecnical info.
    I am impresed how quick I got a response, thanks Sean, Craig and every body else.
    After reading the tecno from Craig I was very worried but today (Monday)I phoned My local Citroen-only breakers yard and asked him.
    XM is realy forgiving, get the car on the ground or as low as you can, and start her up. Done, she got up and all tested ok.
    Regards
    Happy Johan
    PS:I put the suspension on high an check the new rubber, it does not even show signs of carrying any weight ie. dont distort.
    1965 Renault R8 :
    2003 Citroen C5 v6

    I don't have a bucket list,
    but my fxxket list is a mile long

  18. #18
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    If you have a quick internet connection, I'd suggest you grab yourself a copy of this ASAP in case it gets zapped.

    http://www.stevenbraud.demon.co.uk/


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  19. #19
    Tadpole
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    Default XM Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Johan
    Cit NZ ask NZ$1114.00plusGST each.
    Had it redone for $412.00 for both!
    Reliability is stil a ???? It appear well done and the material is suppose to be good. I will get the proper name and let you know
    Thanks for advice
    Yes, I too would like to know who is doing them please, as I have doubts about
    one on the Xantia.

    pudlfakr

  20. #20
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    For future reference, this was just posted on an overseas forum.
    I used to have it somewhere but misplaced it, but they had a lot of problems overseas with these in snowy climates, so this guy devised this system.
    According to the guy in the UK, he has sent the maker an e-mail but has so far only received an out of office auto response.
    If I hear any more I'll post.

    http://web.telia.com/~u43116231/index2.htm

    An interesting read.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  21. #21
    UFO
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    Alan - this fix is only applicable for the problem they have with cars on salted roads. The metal collar rots. We do not have that problem. We have the problem as I have previously discussed and is backed up by the website that Johan refers to, whereby the rubber component perishes. The metal collar is still in fine nick.

    AFAIK, the rubber on these mounts is usually fine - if the owner has maintained the spheres...
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  22. #22
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    With the number of private imports and the cars in NZ where they have a wetter climate, I would imagine there's instances where it could still be eligible here.
    Sean's car as an example, is a private import.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! sdabel's Avatar
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    Icon12

    Tempting fate by writing this but.......have had a good look at my front struts and the metal mounting seems in good condition. However the rubber seems a bit worn on one side (drivers side) my suspicion is that the LHS one was replaced at some stage of the cars life and the RHS (Drivers) side one is still original and worn. The front spheres are good but given other things I have found on this car it is possible that it was run with low spheres in it's lifetime.

    The underside is in pretty good nick considering it was a UK (salted roads) car. I have put POR15 over the bits that were rusted (front bumper mounts) but the rest is OK, so the galvanising really does work.

    Now just watch me find rust the next time I look at the front suspension mounts!

    regards
    sean
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