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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Help

    Has anyone experience in removing the starter motor from a 1960 ID 19. There does not seem to be room to take it out unless I remove either the manifold or the engine mount.
    Any help would be appreciated
    cheers
    Helmut

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by helmut
    Has anyone experience in removing the starter motor from a 1960 ID 19. There does not seem to be room to take it out unless I remove either the manifold or the engine mount.
    Any help would be appreciated
    cheers
    Helmut
    I don't know a thing about the ID 19 but I hope you have luck with your endeavour.
    Weather: O cast with showers................YOU LITTLE BEAUTY

  3. #3
    UFO
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    CitroŽn Tragic UFO's Avatar
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    I think your summation of the processes involved is correct Helmut - unless you have Citroen arms and fingers - ie arms made of rubber, 12 joints in each finger and eyeballs on the end of every second finger.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Helmut, a starter motor has to be one of the worst jobs on a D, apart from taking the engine out.

    You are lucky in one respect that it is more difficult on later cars.

    The early cars have a single bolt on the top holding the starter on. You could try dropping the starter out the bottom, however unless the car was up on high it would be very difficult.

    The easiest way would be to remove the exhaust manifold and it should come out. I don't see the need to remove the engine mount. The clutch mechanism and the gear rod may foul, but these are easily removed if necessary.

    It might be advantageous to remove the wing for better access.

    If you need any more help please ask.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default ID 19 starter

    Being a 1960 ID there is little that is not straight forward. The exhaust pipe from the manifold to the front mufflet should pose little problem other than resealing the joint..the cast iron exhaust manifold is straight forward and from memory all the bolts are readily seen ( 2 for each hole )..just remove the heat shield and all will be revealed.There is a support for the pipe next to the radiator, obvious too.

    The clutch cable and mechanism will be obvious too.

    The starter has a single large locating bolt right on the top of the housing with a sizeable locknut....I suspect once that big pointed ended locating bolt is removed there will be little to bother you. A couple of smaller reaction screws also help position the nose of the starter but they aren't troublesome...even the electrical cable is pretty obvious.

    I suspect the starter will have broken either its bendix spring or burnt the solenoid...just check the solenoid next to the battery,,,the points inside are in a sort of daisy wheel pattern and made of copper (?)..the ends of the fingers burn away.

    The steering column is self explanatory once the pinch bolt on the rubber alignment bush thing on the rack is undone...be sure you remover the top of the plastic cover behind the steering wheel under the speedo ( 2 screws ) before you remove the steering tube..It is spring mounted and easily is pushed rearward, and if you omit the plastic cover it it easily broken. The gear linkage rod is easily indone at both ends too...all from my distant memory...while you are at it have a good look at the clutch cable and the throttle cable...being a 60 it should not have an organ type pedal

    Sorry can't remember any details about the master cylinder other than the reservoir is way over on the side near the coil.

    Hope this helps. Just be thankful it is not a DS with hydraulic gearbox, air conditioning and fuel injection, even getting the mainifold off one of those is a packed lunch job.I believe the entire job can be done from above without any need to dive under the car except to retrieve dropped bolts and spanners, but it may be kinder on your back to remone the mudguard first to save any extra leaning over. ..this is a job I haven't done for 25 years so my memory may be a little inaccurate...

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Many thanks for the advice, I finally did remove the manifold and it went surprisingly easy, no sheared studs, no welded on nuts. The replacement starter is now fitted and works.
    Thanks again
    Helmut

  7. #7
    Member Pommiefrog's Avatar
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    i was reading this post with interest, and wondering what a nightmare job to do, glad it worked out for you.

    Any pics of your ID 19?
    Regards,

    George
    Leicestershire, England
    1971 DS21 EFI, Pallas, BVH, Blog:http://www.mypallas.net

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi George
    It took me less than half an hour to remove the manifold and to replace the starter, on later models it is a nightmare or worse, but on the first nose D no problem man!!!!!
    The only other problem is my clutch cable broke, and I hope that Speedy cable will send a new one soon.
    I will try to post a couple of pictures of my ID.
    Cheers
    Helmut

  9. #9
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Helmut, I think a picture of your traction would be nice too!
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I will try again, sorry Smiffy the one with the traction I will have to play with, it is too big, I'll try later
    cheers Helmut
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Help-d-june.jpg  

  11. #11
    Member Pommiefrog's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing the picture.

    She is a beauty!
    Regards,

    George
    Leicestershire, England
    1971 DS21 EFI, Pallas, BVH, Blog:http://www.mypallas.net

  12. #12
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by helmut
    I will try again, sorry Smiffy the one with the traction I will have to play with, it is too big, I'll try later
    cheers Helmut
    Nice car Helmut, I can see why you transported it in a container, and not roll-on-roll-off. john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

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