CX rear window reseal.
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria.
    Posts
    1,389

    Default CX rear window reseal.

    Hi Froggies,
    I've been out of the loop for a while. I had to concentrate on a talk I had to give at a conference in Sydney a couple of weeks ago, and I had to re-paint a bedroom, and now there is a bathroom renovation I have to do also...so unfortunately the CX gets the low priority treatment.
    However , here in Melbourne we have had plenty of rain lately, and unfortunately I found water leaking into the back of the car and the rear seats were soaked.
    Because the car is kept outside I had to act quickly.
    Some years ago I worked in the windscreen industry, so I knew what to do. The first step was to remove the rear window. The stainless steel surrounds came off ok once the screws were removed. Even the screws are stainless!, so be careful not to lose them.
    The urethane seal had let go along the top corners and right across the bottom of the screen. But the sides were still well bonded. The only way was to cut through the old seal from inside. This was tough work , without the proper tools, I used a kitchen knife, a very tough one. Once I could remove the window, the rest was fairly straight forward.
    I decided to fit a spare window I had in the garage because it was in better shape than the original one which was covered in scratches from a rear louvre. The only trouble was I had to remove the rear window demister connectors from the old window and re-use them on the spare one which didn't have any. These are soldered on. I used the gas powered blow torch to heat the solder, remove the lugs, and reset them on the new screen.
    You have to be careful doing this..too much heat for too long on one spot and you end up with a bang and a pile of new sand.
    I was careful.
    The old urethane was so well bonded to the body it was a shame to remove it, but it had to come out. It took the paint with it as I tore it out.
    I decided to use a cold kit to re-seal the window. I did this because I knew how to do it better than I knew how to use sikaflex. In retrospect it might have been easier had I used sikaflex, but I had the kit ready to go, so I went with it.
    I primed the window and the sill on the car.
    If anyone out there is going to do this you might avoid one difficulty I encountered by fitting the kit to the body instead of the glass.
    There are some non removable plastic lugs that get right in the way when you try to lower the window into position. It's just a smoother and simpler operation if you fit the kit to the body first, then position the window over it.
    If this seal gives out and starts to leak in the next few years I'll rip it out and use sikaflex urethane.
    You just have to be sure you don't close any door with windows closed while the sikaflex is wet, otherwise the air pressure pops a hole through the seal and you end up with a brand new leaking seal.
    I removed the bootlid to make access easier. I fitted the window, and refitted the bootlid.
    Then I went to bed, it was about 4am...but it was all good fun...I had the next day off from work so what the hell.
    Cheers....George 1/8th.

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Jack Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Gosford, NSW
    Posts
    302

    Default Welcome back....

    Welcome back George....

    Your detailed, insightful and witty accounts of what is without doubt one of the most thorough CX restorations were missed...!

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    Hi George,

    If the back window was leaking, you may find the rear quater windows are about to blow out. Gently press the lower front corner of the windows and ensure they can't be pushed away from the body.

    Using Sikaflex on the rear window is messy and I didn't find it simple. You can't just 'sit' the window on the bead of sikaflex, you must slide it up under the trim mounts, so you smear impossible to remove messy sikaflex everywhere Then you leave the window to set and it drops a few mm's (or in my case you leave the bloody rear window demist wire to be set in the seal so you can't fish them out.

    seeya,
    Shane L
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria.
    Posts
    1,389

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Z
    Welcome back George....

    Your detailed, insightful and witty accounts of what is without doubt one of the most thorough CX restorations were missed...!

    Thanks Jack for your Kind remarks.
    I will try to keep up the standard in future restoration episodes.
    I love my CX, and I can't wait to get it registered.
    All it needs is a couple of tyres replaced, a wheel alignment( which I will do following Alan's advice) , the heater replaced(believe me, it's cold here in melbourne right now),the radiator /heater hoses replaced (I'll get these from my parts car) front rotors( I have them, thanks to Mr Southwell, another Aussiefroggie) I just have to fit them, NEW front brake hoses( I also have these...I just have to fit them and bleed the brakes) and a couple of other small jobs such as changing the HP.pump, and it should be just about ready to have it's RWC.
    The only problem is I have a major bathroom upgrade/restoration/renovation to perform first... this should contribute to the continuation of a happy marriage....here's hoping anyway.
    Cheers...George.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria.
    Posts
    1,389

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Hi George,

    If the back window was leaking, you may find the rear quater windows are about to blow out. Gently press the lower front corner of the windows and ensure they can't be pushed away from the body.

    Using Sikaflex on the rear window is messy and I didn't find it simple. You can't just 'sit' the window on the bead of sikaflex, you must slide it up under the trim mounts, so you smear impossible to remove messy sikaflex everywhere Then you leave the window to set and it drops a few mm's (or in my case you leave the bloody rear window demist wire to be set in the seal so you can't fish them out.

    seeya,
    Shane L
    Hi Shane, you are right...those trim mounts are a real bugger, I reckon they fit the window first and then fit the trim mounts . If there was some way of removing them without breaking them and then re-fitting them it would be a big help.
    Also, when you resealed your rear window with sikaflex did you pull out all the old stuff first, because if so you should have had enough room to position the window without disturbing the wet urethane.

    I'll have to check the quarter windows as you suggested.
    It's a shame about your rear demister wires getting lost in urethane.
    It's nice to have a dry interior.
    The boot is nice and dry inside too. We have had so much rain over the last few weeks that it's been a good test of window seals etc.
    Cheers...George.
    Last edited by George 1/8th; 24th June 2004 at 11:04 PM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •