BX gearbox oil?
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Thread: BX gearbox oil?

  1. #1
    Tadpole Mench's Avatar
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    Default BX gearbox oil?

    BX owners - what do you recommend for gearbox oil? I'm just having the CV boot replaced today so we're going to lose a fair whack of oil. Also the sychros aren't functioning too well (not too bad I just need to be careful on the changes) so if this can be improved with a better oil it'd be great news

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    while we're at it, what oil do you guys run in the engine?
    '86 BX19GTi 8V

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Everybody who knows me can predict waht I'm going to tell you.

    Straight Castrol 80 gear oil ( Castrol VMX80 ) with 125mls of Nulon G70 added. It should take any whines out of the box within a kilometre and smooth out the gear changes within a day or two.
    Run it for a couple of thousand klms, drain it out & refill with the same mix and absolute unbelieveable results. I never rave about additives, in fact additives whilst being strongly recommended by some have been on the receiving end of some hefty litigation payouts in the US. I have had some very nasty experiences with them, but that is engine additives and to me they are about as safe as Russian Roullette, but gearbox additives are something totally different and have been constantly proven to work.
    Being a BX don't under any circumstances use any heavier oil or ant synthetic as overseas experience has proved both to cause problems and by the sound of things, if you follow my advice, don't be surprised if the difference is extremely spectacular as the symptoms you have are similar to those with boxes with the heavier oil in them.
    If you are taking the driveshaft out, also replace the seal where it enters the transmission. Prise out & push in job but saves the removal of the shaft and replacing of the oil if it leaks after the shaft has been removed & replaced as they often do.
    The drain plug faces towards the rear of the car on the final drive section and has a 8mm square hole in the centre. Do not under any circumstances remove the 16mm bolt on the bottom of the transmission that you will think is the drain; it's in fact the retainer for the reverse idler and removing that and touching the gear lever or starter is usually followed by a metallic clunk inside the box which means it's tranny out time.
    To refill, remove the passengers side front wheel and inner guard. Looking at the end of the gearbox you'll see a saction that is moulded slightly out and has a hex plug in there that takes a 19mm socket. Pour about 500mls of gear oil into the transmission filler hole, then ad the 125mls of Nulon G70. Shake it all up and add the rest of the gear oil with the Nulon added. When the 1 litre bottle is empty, start to use the second 1 litre bottle of straight gear oil and when about half way empty, carefully and slowly let if keep going in until gear oil dribbles from the filler/level hole.
    It will take approx 2 litres including the Nulon so in effect 1.8 litres of gear oil plus 125 Nulon.
    Incidentally, the reason I suggest a second transmission oil change a few thousand down the track is that I recently changed mine again and brother has it ever washed some shit out of the insides of the transmission and it is as smooth a transmission that I have ever felt in a BX; smooth as silk and quiet as a church mouse.
    Let me know how it goes; I'm interested.


    Alan S
    Last edited by Alan S; 24th June 2004 at 07:42 AM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Engine oil is another story.
    This will depend on the condition of the engine, how it's been serviced and what it's had in previously.
    In the 8 valve models we've found the Caltex Haveline Premium to be by far the best as regards retaining its colour and lubricating properties as well as reducing oil consumption. It's rated as a 20W50 and as such is too thick for use in a 16V engine though. 16Vs they suggest need a thinner oil due to the number of things that have to be lubed particularly on initial start up and as we found when we reconditioned one a while back, the thick stuff can tend to block ends of oil gullies and create long term problems.
    I use Mobil1 in mine and change it every 5 - 8,000 klms along with the filter depending on the kind of use it's been getting. This I find as good as any in my case and the insides of my engine is spotless.
    With modern engines (by that I mean OHC and high revving, EFi and cats) I feel the minimum should be a semi synthetic which are usually a 15W40 or thereabouts on an engine with a good service record and little wear. These days there are lots of small brands in Oils, Ray Bell often talks about Caddilac Oils in southern Queensland and there's another called Synforce both of which make some big claims about their oils and possibly with good cause as they are more of a boutique oil than a mass produced one such as Shell, Mobil, Castrol & others but as being in WA you may have access to something similar there. However, I think if you look up any Oil company's website for a recommended oil, they'll all play it safe & recommend a semi synth.
    As I mentioned on the gear oil thread, don't be tempted to play around with additives with engine oil though, as most already have them in and all you end up doing is OD ing the engine with them and causing damage.




    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! sproose16v's Avatar
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    Ive been running 20w50 since i owned the car due to the fact that my Valve Stem Oil Seals are a little cactus and if i run a thinner oil i get a bit of smoke comming out of the exghaust, especially on startup in the mornings because the oil leaks into the combustion chamber over night. Ive had no worries using the thick stuff, full synthetic of course, its not cheap but yeah makes you feel good. Well soon ill be back into the thin stuff after i install a full engine rubber kit, ive seen these for aout 200 - 220, is this the right price?

    Cheers!
    1989 BX 16 Valve Mk1 - SOLD (And Missed)
    http://www.bx16v.cjb.net
    1992 R32 GTSt Skyline

  5. #5
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    What's the full engine rubber kit? Do you mean a gasket set?
    You can't do 16V valve stem oil seals without taking the head off and when you do, you need to not only replace the valve stem seals but also all the head bolts as well due to the fact they are of the stretch variety.
    The reason I mentioned "long term" damage is that in our case, the thicker oil had caused some of the oilways to ckoke up & as some are dead ends, even with all the latest state of the art cleaning systems and chemicals, they eventually had to drill the ends out of some of the galleys and plug them to get the oil flowing as it should. Then when it was back up & running, it was found that there were top end noises that turned out to be the hydraulic lifters that were stuffed again due to heavier oil not allowing full lubrication when needed the most and don't those babies make your Bank Manager smile when you go to get a loan to pay for them; from memory we were looking at around $2K in parts alone just for the lifters as both inners and outers were worn. So if you keep using the heavy stuff, just be prepared for an expensive shock when the head comes off.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! sproose16v's Avatar
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    Yes a gasket set thats it, well the head is comming off in about 3 weeks time for some work so im not too phased about it, i got a loan to do some work, have a look in the Tec & Performance forum for the thred called Expected Output. I rally want to just throw 10 grand at it and just replace almost everything, but then again i dont want to be paying off a loan for a motor for the next 2 or 3 years. I did the bad thing i tried NuLon Stop smoke when i was running 15w40 Synthetic and it worked fine until i did an oil change and the stop smoke stuff was out of the engine, i usually do an oil change every 5000kms and a filter change every 10,000kms. But time will tell in a few weeks time how this has been treated when the head somes off.

    Cheers!
    1989 BX 16 Valve Mk1 - SOLD (And Missed)
    http://www.bx16v.cjb.net
    1992 R32 GTSt Skyline

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! sproose16v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    What's the full engine rubber kit? Do you mean a gasket set?
    You can't do 16V valve stem oil seals without taking the head off and when you do, you need to not only replace the valve stem seals but also all the head bolts as well due to the fact they are of the stretch variety.
    The reason I mentioned "long term" damage is that in our case, the thicker oil had caused some of the oilways to ckoke up & as some are dead ends, even with all the latest state of the art cleaning systems and chemicals, they eventually had to drill the ends out of some of the galleys and plug them to get the oil flowing as it should. Then when it was back up & running, it was found that there were top end noises that turned out to be the hydraulic lifters that were stuffed again due to heavier oil not allowing full lubrication when needed the most and don't those babies make your Bank Manager smile when you go to get a loan to pay for them; from memory we were looking at around $2K in parts alone just for the lifters as both inners and outers were worn. So if you keep using the heavy stuff, just be prepared for an expensive shock when the head comes off.


    Alan S
    I had a read around and a chat to a close friend of mine and i dont think the XU9J4 has hydrolic lifters?
    1989 BX 16 Valve Mk1 - SOLD (And Missed)
    http://www.bx16v.cjb.net
    1992 R32 GTSt Skyline

  8. #8
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sproose16v
    I had a read around and a chat to a close friend of mine and i dont think the XU9J4 has hydrolic lifters?
    If it's a 16V BX, it's got hydraulic lifters/tappets call them what you like; trust me.

    If it hasn't it ain't no 16V. Just read your specs or look up your service manual. Even Haynes knows that!!


    Alan S
    Last edited by Alan S; 24th June 2004 at 03:48 PM.
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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