DS stiff front suspension
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS stiff front suspension

    The front suspension seems to be a lot stiffer than it should be. Both spheres were gassed a few months back with new diaphragms and should still have plenty of life in them. I have noticed that the driver's side seems to be where the problem is. With no pressure in the system and the car on a hoist, the passenger front wheel can easily be lifted through the full suspension travel but the driver's side is very hard to move. Any ideas what would cause this?

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Is there retained pressure in the suspension cylinder? Try loosening the sphere a bit to see if LHM comes up the threads.

    If it's not that, you will have to look at each arm separately to test the arm bearings.

    Cheers, Ken

  3. #3
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    Is there retained pressure in the suspension cylinder? Try loosening the sphere a bit to see if LHM comes up the threads.

    If it's not that, you will have to look at each arm separately to test the arm bearings.

    Cheers, Ken
    Or go a step further and swap spheres left to right - it's not unheard of that a regassed sphere lost pressure soon after gassing.

    Cheers
    Chris
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  4. #4
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    Good suggestions, I'll swap the spheres next weekend and report back. Is it possible for only one of the cylinders to still be under pressure? I would have thought that the height corrector would hold pressure in both or dump the pressure from both.

    If it is the arm bearings what is the general solution? From what I gather new bearings are are like hens teeth.

  5. #5
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    Small update, I've tried swapping the spheres and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. Any suggestions on where to look next?

  6. #6
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    Rollbar binding or catching if it has moved sideways? Check if it is a sticking cylinder or the arm bearings by uncoupling the roll bar to determine the stiff side. With the sphere removed and the pin removed from the cylinder rod, push it up and see if the arms then move freely down and back up. See if the cylinder piston moves freely or not. … Rectify. Arms bearings are not a problem, but the rollers can wear grooves in the face on the arm and render the arm scrap.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by faulksy View Post
    Small update, I've tried swapping the spheres and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. Any suggestions on where to look next?
    In addition to David's comments. The roll bar bearing caps are attached with a couple of inverted U bolts. The bearing cap may have had at initial assembly a shim placed between the top bearing cap and the suspension unit housing. Maybe someone has lost the shim or over torqued the U bolts. The roll bars do wear oval over time as they have very limited arcing action. I cannot remember the torque settings for the roll bar bearing caps but it is not great. As David suggests disconnect the roll bar links and see how much drag there is.
    I suspect if the upper and lower arms are stiff it will most likely be the lower arm that has wear and crunchy corrosion on the hardened surface that would normally be the inner cone of the tapered roller bearing.Andre's men use the actual forged (?) arm as the inner bearing surface. A bit silly really. Strangely it is the lower arms that in theory have a lesser load that get more wear.... maybe the wetter working environment ?
    If you do go about removing and replacing arm bearings do not completely fill the interior space with grease as later applications will see the rear sealing caps dislodge before any grease passes the seals at the front end.

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