Xantia V6 Sphere replacement.
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 10 of 10
Like Tree8Likes
  • 1 Post By Ken W
  • 1 Post By almostfrench
  • 1 Post By Armidillo
  • 1 Post By forumnoreason
  • 2 Post By David S
  • 1 Post By Armidillo
  • 1 Post By forumnoreason

Thread: Xantia V6 Sphere replacement.

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Metung, Victoria.
    Posts
    79

    Default Xantia V6 Sphere replacement.

    Hi All,
    Well, "just replacing the 8 spheres" has turned out to be less than straightforward......

    The square section O Rings that came with the spheres from The Sphere Shop seem to be a bit large.
    I'm worried that they're getting "Squished out of the way" when I tighten the spheres as three of the four that I have changed so far are leaking......
    Do they have to be REALLY tight?
    The O Rings appear to be the same as the ones that were on there.

    The front "Stiffness Controller" (Hydractive 2) appears to be leaking from the T50 Torx (?) cap on the rear.
    It's bloody tight and I'm worried about breaking something if I really get into it. I assume that there's an O Ring under that that is not sealing.....

    The 2 strut-top spheres still had a lot of oil pressure in them despite me slackening off the 12mm bolt on the accumulator. The oil that came out was creamy with gas in it, so I guess that those spheres had ruptured.

    Any bright ideas?
    I've had a look at most of the YouTube videos etc and they don't seem to be doing them up that tight.

    Advertisement


    Cheers, Chris.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,983

    Default

    You are right, they don't have to be done up more than hand tight but you should feel the seal for the last turn or so. What I do is seat the seal down inside the lip above where the screw thread stops on the regulator, strut top, cylinder etc. Then I screw the sphere on without disturbing the seal. Some times they can be tricky to start and the spheres wobble around a bit and disturb the seal. Whan that happens, I take the sphere away and re-seat the seal again.

    Sounds like some spheres membranes were leaking. Not sure what to do with the stiffness regulator. You could contact Peter Raffles at Pleiades in Gayndah to see if he can service and reseal them.

    Regards, Ken
    almostfrench likes this.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Metung, Victoria.
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Thanks Ken,
    I'll try again. This time with FEELING!
    JohnW likes this.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,456

    Default

    Yes, very important to seat the square seal at the top of the threaded hole that you are trying to screw the sphere into. The recessed lip(?) should be exactly the right size and shape. If you try and put the ring on the sphere, it will behave exactly as you describe!

    Do not over-tighten! Once the sphere milled surface contacts the (oiled) surface of the o-ring, just hand-tighten - maybe a quarter of turn? Only tighten a bit more if it's not quite sealing. Should never have the 2 flat surfaces in contact.

    Cheers

    Alec
    almostfrench likes this.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    2,602

    Default

    give them a smear of lhm too before placing, helps hold them in also. And the threads.
    almostfrench likes this.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,898

    Default

    You need to fit spheres as you would an oil filter. Screw them up until the sphere face touches the rubber seal and than 1/4 turn or so more. You don't need metal to metal contact and they only need to be hand tight. If they won't seal like that, the seal may be defective or cut. The exception on a Xantia is the anti sink sphere, which has a pipe seal joint. These require some care and don't need to be very tight either. It doesn't help to tighten it hard to get metal to metal contact. You have to be sure the end of the pipe has slipped into the hole at the bottom and start the thread by hand. However, if you push the pipe full home before starting the thread, you will have trouble, so only push it home as you tighten the nut. Turning the rubber seal around is the tied way to get another use from it.

    I've had that leak from the cap nut on the stiffness regulator. Yes, it's a simple o-ring under the cap screw. Find one that's a little oversize and preferably a little harder than the typical o-ring and it should be OK. I'd take the unit out of the car if possible. Yes, the cap can be very tight.

    The foamy LHM is what you get when the suspension hasn't properly depressurised. With a dodgy Hydractive electrovalve it is usually the middle sphere that still has pressure. It will be very tight to undo and you really don't want to do that unless you have no option. You want to release that pressure. I'm assuming it's an anti-sink car and you may not have properly depressurised the suspension, which may explain the foaming LHM. What you describe won't be due to a ruptured diaphragm.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Metung, Victoria.
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Thanks for the extra input guys.
    It sounds as though I'm not depressurising the system properly.
    My understanding is that you loosen off the 12mm bolt on the back of the accumulator unit about a turn.
    Is there something that I'm missing?

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,456

    Default

    Maybe it's a V6 thing, but Xantias I've worked on (VSX and SX) have all had the depressurising bolt at the front - radiator side...

    Unless system is already depressurised, when you undo that bolt the right distance, you should hear a Phhshhh sound - probably lasts less than a second, and cuts off suddenly. Oncde you hear the noise, don't go any further. Shouldn't be more than a single turn.
    almostfrench likes this.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    2,602

    Default

    you need to run the car and put it on low setting to fully purge stored pressure. When I have done spheres on my hydractive xantia I put it on high, pop the stands under, run it, drop it to low and then depressurize the regulator half a turn at most. Then you will hear the hiss. Also rotating the steering back and forth will help, whilst motor running. You need to be able to get under it at rear of course to change spheres and definitely use an extra trolley jack positioned around the point where you are working on a safe solid jacking point to stop the car from sliding if something bad happens. I also take the wheels off and stick those under the car for a little more safety, a mechanic tragically died here last week when a car slid off a hoist. Safety first is key priority. When you've fitted the spheres, wheels can go back on (you don't have to take them off but on rear gives you more room to wrestle the spheres) then run car, tighten up regulator valve screw, put on high and pull the stands, the jack might be useful there too in case you don't get enough height to free the stands away.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 7th November 2019 at 10:02 AM.
    almostfrench likes this.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Metung, Victoria.
    Posts
    79

    Default

    It IS a V6 thing!
    The 4s have it at the front and the V6s at the back of the accumulator.
    I'm sure I'll get the hang of this EVENTUALLY....

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •