Traction fan belt
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 13 of 13
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By driven

Thread: Traction fan belt

  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Amberley, New Zealand
    Posts
    3

    Default Traction fan belt

    Hi All,
    I have recently acquired a Light 12 Traction. It needs a new fan belt, but there is barely 5mm gap in front of the main pulley and the belt is 15-20mm thick. Any ideas or tricks to replacing this? There is no way I can see of getting it past - or am I missing something?

    Thanks.

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,392

    Default

    Don't know engine but the pulley should have bolts in it.
    Remove these and fit new belt

  3. #3
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Amberley, New Zealand
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thought of that, but the pulley has one central bolt and looks as if it needs a puller to get it off (once the engine is out!).

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,392

    Default

    Is this it
    pulley.jpg Click on link to see

    Try undoing bolt and see if there is any movement to get past
    Otherwise adjustable Vee belt easy
    https://gtwww.blob.core.windows.net/...fe43eb8c1c.png
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-S...-/371657182169
    Trading Estate likes this.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Trading Estate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Can remember forcing mine (L15) through the gap , but possibly less room on a 12.
    '04 Megane
    Gone but not forgotten
    '71 16 TS, '72 16 TL, '74 15TS,'82 20TS Series 2, '85 25 GTX. '49 L15,

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    161

    Default

    I accept that I could be talking through the top of my hat but I thought that the radiator is held in the frame by only four bolts. If you can loosen off the two on the sides and the top hose will that give you enough wriggle room to work the belt through without forcing it and destroying the fins on the radiator.
    Cheers

  7. #7
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Amberley, New Zealand
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Yes Driven, that's the pulley. I wondered if they were originally made with those 'stepped' belts - I had no idea that you could still get them! Thanks very much. I'll have a look elsewhere as it has the usual Does Not Ship To NZ - (what's with that and the States?).
    Allen M - it's not the radiator that's in the way, it's a cross member underneath it, which can't be moved.

    Cheers all.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,013

    Default

    Should be easy to do! Maybe your radiator is adjusted too far back. The lower bolts will allow it to slide forward if you can loosen them. ( may be seized ) Other alternative is to undo the four fixing bolt on the fan to the pulley . There is a tabbed lock plate to bend back to release the set screw heads. Do not take the fan right off ----it will be difficult to refit! Just loosen it so that the belt can be worked past the blades as you wobble the fan. Heads are for a 10mm spanner.
    BTW the belt is a 39 inch B section industrial belt available at most Farm Shops or Machinery suppliers.
    Last edited by gerrypro; 15th June 2019 at 12:38 PM.
    Cheers Gerry

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    I accept that I could be talking through the top of my hat but I thought that the radiator is held in the frame by only four bolts. If you can loosen off the two on the sides and the top hose will that give you enough wriggle room to work the belt through without forcing it and destroying the fins on the radiator.
    Cheers
    Allen, the underside of the radiator has a captive caged bolt that slides back and forth in the slot of the cage. This allows fore and aft adjustment of the radiator.
    Cheers Gerry

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    161

    Default

    If the problem is the distance between the cross member and the extension of the camshaft drive for the pump/generator then I would try putting a bottle jack, with a solid piece of wood on top of it, under bell housing and jack the motor up just slightly. That wont give you a lot of room but the rest may be achieved with the application of brute force and stupidity, a time honoured way of getting most things to fit.

    I wonder if someone has fitted a 40mm think rear engine mount (Silentblock) instead of a 30mm which would account for the motor sitting just that bit forward?
    Cheers.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,013

    Default

    Oops, Allen I am sorry! I misread the post and thought the problem was the distance between the fan blades and the radiator!
    Yes maybe there has been a Normale rear engine mount installed. If this is the case then why not undo the rear housing for the rubber block mount and lever the engine back a fraction. Whilst at it the rear block rubber could be trimmed to fit, or the mount housing exchanged for one from a Normale to accommodate the deeper rubber.
    Cheers Gerry

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,013

    Default

    Actually since the position of the engine fore/aft is governed by the front mount on the cross member a thicker rubber rear mount would not make that much difference. However twisting the belt on its side to pass between the cross member and the camshaft extension pulley should work. I have to fit my cars using this method. The belt will not pass through on its width measurement, but just goes through side on!
    Cheers Gerry

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2,563

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by driven View Post
    Is this it
    pulley.jpg Click on link to see

    Try undoing bolt and see if there is any movement to get past
    Otherwise adjustable Vee belt easy
    https://gtwww.blob.core.windows.net/...fe43eb8c1c.png
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-S...-/371657182169
    Hi
    My suggestion is do not even think about those "adjustable link" belts. They are not 'likable' and you need to set the tension very carefully as they are very stretchy under load and a PITA to get correct and working. That is why you never see them used today anywhere.
    Whereas if you get the correct Vbelt and fit it correctly, it will last you out there with an adjustment every 10 years or so. Listen to Gerrypro.
    jaahn

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •