Who's good with D hydraulics in Melbourne?
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Thread: Who's good with D hydraulics in Melbourne?

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Apr 2019
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    Melbourne
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    Default Who's good with D hydraulics in Melbourne?

    I have problem with hydraulic pump leaking I think from join in casing and pump cutting in far too often. Have replaced main acumulator. Maybe pump leak is causing this...I don't know. Is there anyone in Melbourne competent with D hydraulics who could look at this for me? Are there any good mechanics in Melbourne working with D's?....

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Hi Dfocused... I owned a D and used it as a daily driver for 2 years , about 25 years ago. The D series suffered from the potential to end up with a crack right through the pump body. Mine had a seven cylinder pump body, they were a solid disc of aluminium with seven cylinders drilled into the disc, around a central point. A wave washer set on an incline progressively pumped each piston in succession as the central shaft rotated, an ingenious design. I remember club members having their pump bodies replaced with a steel alternative , which never fractured. If the leak is caused by a fractured pump body, it's best to just change over the pump for a good used one. I have no idea how expensive they would be there days, but back then people were asking about $600.00 for one. The same pumps were used on the CX, but with a different drive method. They could be easily modified to work on a D. I think they abandoned the aluminium ones by the time the CX came along. You could probably even substitute one from a Xantia, with a few minor engineering changes. Contact the Victorian Citroen Car Club and see if any D enthusiasts can help. Someone will have a good pump in their garage. Good luck with it. Cheers. George 1/8th. 2004 C5 auto.

    PS.. If you have replaced the accumulator with a good one, with a new sphere, the pump should only cut in about every 50 to 60 seconds once the system is pressurized.

  3. #3
    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    If unable to get one from here, you can get reconditioned ones from Germany for 300-350 euros, plus a deposit refunded when you exchange it with your old one.
    DS Un jour, DS toujours !

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
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    The pump isn't hard to service with only fairly basic tools. Read this:
    Hydraulic Pump exploration
    There are clear instruction available and it's mostly fairly logical. If you take one apart, you need 7 bags/envelopes to store the piston and body sets together so they go back in the same locations. Counting them off 1 to 7 from the long stud facing you works for me.
    Although I made up a tool some years ago, the cover can be removed with a grease gun and pressed back on.
    Be super careful to ensure the woodruff key in the shaft stays put when you refit the pulley.
    Franzose are selling springs and other pump items but their repro pump body that is made from aluminium. You would need to look elsewhere if you want a steel pump body. They don't have the lock tab for the pulley nut.

    The pump cutting in too often could be a sign of internal leakage in something like the rack. Even a problem inside pressure regulator. External leakage from the pump can often just be a seal, but if you have to rev it to make it rise, then that is a fair indicator of an internal leak in the pump or a cracked body.
    badabec likes this.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Assuming your car is a manual, and you want to do the repair properly, this will save you in the long run.

    https://citrotech.nl/shop/product/7-...p-ds-lhm-mech/
    forumnoreason and gsowner84 like this.
    M.BERRY
    68 DS21 BVH
    70 D Super

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    Have found out pump is leaking from a seal and would therefore need a seal kit put through it. Seems has already been reconditioned once. Anyone doing this in Melbourne? Or should I just bight the bullet and get new, tempting but a bit painful at around $800. Also may not fix problem of pump cutting in too often. Thanks to all who have responded so far. I guess it seems pump cycle time probably a different issue....

  7. #7
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Fix it yourself. It's not that hard. I have done a few.

    If you can't or don't want to, get a seal kit and bring it down here and I will do it.

    I don't set myself up as a Citroen hydraulics expert or repairer for hire, but I like to help and don't like to see people stuck.

    Roger

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! citroenthusiast's Avatar
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    If it is leaking externally, it is either the o-ring that seals the can to the pump body (unlikely) or the face seal that seals the pump to the back side of the front bearing (probably). Usually, it is not the face seal, per se, but the O-ring that seals the OD of the seal to the pump body. This gets hard and either leaks directly or prevents the spring from forcing the seal against the back of the bearing. It is possible to repair the face seal without completely dismantling the pump. You do need to remove the can and press out the wobble shaft. Remove the bearing and polish the running surface on some 600 sandpaper. Do the same (gently) with the bronze face seal. Reassemble with a VITON O-ring. Done.
    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 TAV Legere; 61DS19 LHM BVH (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM EFI (Megasquirt); 73SM 3.0 (other son's)

  9. #9
    Tadpole
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    Apr 2019
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks, Roger for generous offer, looks like I might have things sorted but thanks again for all responces

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