My new XM - Page 2
  • Register
  • Help
Page 2 of 3 First 123 Last
Results 26 to 50 of 59
Like Tree18Likes

Thread: My new XM

  1. #26
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,405

    Default

    An inexpensive book for XM owners:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/392232821894
    Citroen XM by Martinez and Sauzay.

    Advertisement
    Armidillo likes this.

  2. #27
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Does anyone know anything about these ones? They are all huge (over 18 GB), and run under VMWare.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Download-...4AAOSwvD5aGrS~
    (19 GB!)

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Service-W....c100005.m1851
    (27 GB!!!!)

    https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/C...BoCW9AQAvD_BwE
    (18.6 GB!)

    The two eBay ones have wording like the following:



    "This factory manual has no connection with Haynes, Autodata, Car manufacturer or other products. The content of this item is our production and the information are gathered by us due to our experience or thanks to information distributed freely and globally under the terms of the GNU Public License, the GNU Lesser General Public License (LGPL) and interpreted by us.

    "We do not violate any copyrights. We are not using anyone's intellectual property nor their publications or documents. We own copyrights to this item and we reserve the rights to this workshop manual. It doesnít not violate any eBayís policy, VERO, car manufacturer rightsí or copyrights. All logos or trademarks, brands (if used) in this listing are property of their respective owners (all of them are used in this listing for identification purposes only - use of these names, logos and brands does not imply endorsement).

    "This listing complies with all eBay listing rules and copyright regulations and the full description of the listing has been created by us."

    but also claim:

    "This is the Official Factory Workshop Manual, exactly the same as used by the car manufacturer to build your car and exactly the same as is used by the car manufacturers and services when they are fixing your car! Follow official repair and diagnostic procedures & step by step!


    Are these just "backups" of the Citroen factory manual(s)?

    Cheers

    Alec



  3. #28
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warrnambool
    Posts
    2,214

    Default

    I cannot advise about those, but I have the factory paper manual for XM series 1, and it consists of 5 ring binders, each of them about 2 inches thick. So there is a lot of documentation!

    Roger

  4. #29
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,405

    Default

    Someone may have scanned the pages from the printed manuals. However, as that would be a great deal of effort and these vendors are usually just selling someone else's work, it is more likely they are pinching manuals from one of Citroen's doc backup CDs intended for offline use with filtering only by model and basic specification.

    You can get parts info for your VIN at no cost via Citroen Service. If you need to, you can also subscribe to that service to obtain repair info. You can print them to pdf for later use.

    Probably the most useful thing for you to obtain is the relevant "Mechanic's Handbook" for 1999 or 2000 as it contains almost all the info you will need for servicing. There are some 4HP20 documents floating around also.
    UFO likes this.

  5. #30
    Member Motorgnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Welcome to the XM club..
    You need to get onto the UK XM forum. There is so much information on there, it'll make your head spin.
    For instance, that plastic lens in the headlight, can be restored using a chemical & UV light. Do not remove it entirely, as it's job is to focus & aim the beam.
    I've tried hid & led (both quality items, not cheapies) & the beam spread & cut off were rubbish. Like what was mentioned earlier, upgraded halogen globes are the go. Having said that, they are only fair at best.

    I could go on forever, just having dragged a series 1 back from the dead, feel free to pm me if you need help.

    But.. Get onto that uk forum.. So much information there, and very intelligent, respectful people.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Armidillo and UFO like this.

  6. #31
    Member Motorgnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Here you go.. The link.


    http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app

  7. #32
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Motorgnome View Post
    Here you go.. The link.


    Citroen XM Forum - Index page

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Thanks - I've taken your advice and jumped in feet first and joined! Another way to (enjoyably) waste endless hours!

    Cheers

    Alec
    UFO and Motorgnome like this.

  8. #33
    Member Motorgnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Hahaha.. That's what I do when there's nothing on TV (often) or the missus is watching rubbish (equally often).
    So much to wade through. There's nothing that these guys haven't come across on an XM!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app

  9. #34
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Try unplugging the rear hydractive solenoid. This will lock out soft mode. It will be nowhere near as soft!
    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    All right, all right, I heard you the first time!

    1. Can hear the rear solenoid but can't see it or touch it. Unlike on a Xantia, it's tucked away above a heat shield, which in turn is above the sideways muffler (this car has the same complicated exhaust as the PRV-engined 605s and XMs).

    2. Front one is accessible from underneath (behind the transmission). As I expected, unplugging made no difference (apart from stopping the whistling). The front may be a little stiffer, while the rear is just as wildly soft, so if anything the imbalance between front and rear may be worse! This confirms my theory that the rear hydractive sphere (and possibly the front as well) is stuffed.

    Whatever the spheres are that I put on, I doubt that they are suspension spheres. Time will tell.

    Cheers

    Alec
    Note to self - don't get sucked into doing things that you know won't work just because Shane tells you to (esp. when it's obvious he hasn't really read the posts).

    As expected, unplugging a solenoid (thus preventing hydractive system from working) made no difference at rear. I expected this because:
    a) I already had evidence that rear hydractive sphere is flat
    b) current spheres I have fitted at the rear seem to have virtually no damping - bouncing so freely that it was unlikely that hydractive system changes would be noticed.

    The front however was a different story...

    Took the car for a drive today - just because I could (having been away more than a week). Rear was still like a water bed - just out of control (I drove very slowly and carefully) - but front was rock hard - worst suspension I've ever experienced! The combination of marshmallow sloppiness at rear with no movement at all from the front has to be experienced to be believed!! of After a few km I remembered that the hydractive solenoid was still unplugged, so the suspension was permanently in hard mode ... . Thanks Shane ...

    Testing it at home, in hard mode there was absolutely no front suspension movement - doesn't this suggest that the front spheres are flat (or ruptured)?

    Now another surprising thing - after reconnecting the solenoid, I took the car for a short drive, and was confident that I once again had front suspension. Back at home, with the solenoid singing, I was able to rock the car (just pushing down on an open driver's door). The front had suspension again. However before the solenoid even switched off (which it should do when the car is not running), the front had switched back into hard mode. I have tried leaving the car and then sneaking up on it again later - nothing - no suspension movement - even though there is a definite click, followed by the high-pitched whining noise when I open a door.

    It has now occurred to me that this might explain the terrible road shock - including steering wheel shudder - that I was feeling on the way home when driving on poor road surfaces.

    Can anyone explain what's happening? Can a hydractive valve be faulty even when you can hear it singing (whining), failing to switch out of Hard mode when it should?

    Cheers

    Alec
    Last edited by Armidillo; 16th March 2019 at 10:34 PM.

  10. #35
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,158

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    Note to self - don't get sucked into doing things that you know won't work just because Shane tells you to (esp. when it's obvious he hasn't really read the posts).

    As expected, unplugging a solenoid (thus preventing hydractive system from working) made no difference at rear. I expected this because:
    a) I already had evidence that rear hydractive sphere is flat
    b) current spheres I have fitted at the rear seem to have virtually no damping - bouncing so freely that it was unlikely that hydractive system changes would be noticed.

    The front however was a different story...

    Took the car for a drive today - just because I could (having been away more than a week). Rear was still like a water bed - just out of control (I drove very slowly and carefully) - but front was rock hard - worst suspension I've ever experienced! The combination of marshmallow sloppiness at rear with no movement at all from the front has to be experienced to be believed!! of After a few km I remembered that the hydractive solenoid was still unplugged, so the suspension was permanently in hard mode ... . Thanks Shane ...

    Testing it at home, in hard mode there was absolutely no front suspension movement - doesn't this suggest that the front spheres are flat (or ruptured)?

    Now another surprising thing - after reconnecting the solenoid, I took the car for a short drive, and was confident that I once again had front suspension. Back at home, with the solenoid singing, I was able to rock the car (just pushing down on an open driver's door). The front had suspension again. However before the solenoid even switched off (which it should do when the car is not running), the front had switched back into hard mode. I have tried leaving the car and then sneaking up on it again later - nothing - no suspension movement - even though there is a definite click, followed by the high-pitched whining noise when I open a door.

    It has now occurred to me that this might explain the terrible road shock - including steering wheel shudder - that I was feeling on the way home when driving on poor road surfaces.

    Can anyone explain what's happening? Can a hydractive valve be faulty even when you can hear it singing (whining), failing to switch out of Hard mode when it should?

    Cheers

    Alec
    I thought you said the hydractive worked on the car XM's drive really nicely with dead hydractive spheres and CX main sphere (guess how I know ).
    Roger Wilkinson likes this.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  11. #36
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I thought you said the hydractive worked on the car XM's drive really nicely with dead hydractive spheres and CX main sphere (guess how I know ).
    That's the point - I'm finding that it works sometimes. Don't yet know what causes that - could it be computer, or is it more likely to be physical - a valve sticking, dirt in fine valves etc...
    Last edited by Armidillo; 17th March 2019 at 02:37 PM.

  12. #37
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Newcastle, NSW
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Hi Alec,

    I'm so pleased that someone is making the journey in an XM. They are a great car. Mine was a series one but I will make some comments anyway.

    1. Shudder under brakes. Disk rotors look very worn.
    They are a big car and one crash stop warped my front discs. They were machined and were much better

    2. Cruise control not working.
    This can be a contact on the brake pedal. Remove the rubber pad, unbolt the little black box on the front of the pedal, pop it open and clean the contacts.

    3. T-bar hand-grip padded outer layer cracked and pieces missing.
    Series one were same as BX and I replaced mine, but this was the ZF box.


    6. Spheres - some issues have arisen already.
    The car should not be uncomfortable in sports mode. This will only happen if the suspension spheres are low pressure/blown/wrong spec and the centre (hydactive sphere) has to take up the slack. I found that with all the spheres correct (right type and pressure) the only difference between sport and normal mode was the amount of body roll.

    7. Oily underneath, although not dripping. Will need a good clean before trying to identify leak(s). BTW nobody told me I was going to need a hoist - seems that a number of things are more accessible from below.
    I spent a lot of time under an XM using some very solid and well placed jack stands and a garage creeper. My oil leak was the rear main seal which dried out when I didn't drive it enough. You must drive it more often.

    By the way, removing the plastic lens in the headlights is a good move.

    Enjoy the journey. There is no better looking car and they just love the long open road.

    Peter

  13. #38
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Thanks Peter for your suggestions and support! All the more appreciated after talking to Martin from EAI, who told me he sold his XM because it spent so much time off the road waiting for expensive parts to arrive from Europe!

    Cheers

    Alec

  14. #39
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,492

    Default

    I like "You must drive it more often".... Good advice.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  15. #40
    UFO
    UFO is offline
    CitroŽn Tragic UFO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Gerringong, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    9,566

    Default

    News Flash:

    If you open the front door of an XM the suspension goes to hard mode. This is, I believe, to prevent it sinking as you load it with people and luggage. The recommended way to trick them into soft mode for removing the centre spheres is to do it with door closed, driver's window down and LEAVE it that way.

    CC not working COULD be the physical vacuum connection to the CC on the throttle body. I know yours is a later V6 but on the 12V V6 there was a nylon bush doovy that was the physical connection to the vacuum rod and the throttle. Ours broke on a trip Wollongong - Cooma - Wollongong and I had to drive most of it with no CC - bugger. Of course the part required was not listed, but I took the mangled remnants to a hardware store, asked an old bloke for a bush thingy and he came up with a pair of aluminium window rollers. I deftly made the ridge in the roller deeper so it would fit the place it had to go on the throttle, removed the end of the link rod, placed the modified roller over it and fitted it again. Worked perfectly for the rest of the years I had it.
    GreenBlood likes this.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  16. #41
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Thanks for tip on CC - that's two things for me to check!

    Have to disagree about the effect of opening a door. Your reasoning sounds sensible to me, but my Hydractive 2 document says otherwise:

    "The door and boot open sensors will override the hard setting of the suspension as long as the vehicle
    speed is below 24 km/h. The suspension will consequently go into soft mode whenever any door or the boot
    is opened
    , and will remain in soft mode for 30 seconds after all the doors are closed if the vehicle speed
    remains below 24 km/h. As long as the vehicle maintains a speed of at least 24km/h, normal rules apply,
    and will continue to apply even if the doors remain open. It is important to note that the suspension will go
    into soft mode even with the ignition switch turned off. Should the doors remain open with the ignition switch
    in the off position, the suspension soft setting will be subjected to a 10 minute timeout to avoid draining the
    battery, as the soft setting requires the electric valves to be energized."

    You'll be pleased to know that I did not exceed 24km/h while doing the "door open" test.

    This comes from a PDF that appears to be part of a larger document. The heading is "Hydractive 2 suspension system". I think John (JBN) might have sent it to me. I am assuming that Hydractive 2 is the same for an XM as for a Xantia.

    Still haven't taken to for a drive to see whether hard mode will unlock once on the road - rain today, so she (?- not sure - might be male) stayed inside, warm & dry.

    Cheers

    Alec

  17. #42
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,217

  18. #43
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Fantastic! Thanks very much. And possibly best of all, it'll make me brush up my French .

    Cheers

    Alec

  19. #44
    Member Motorgnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    108

    Default

    I fitted a "tell tale" led in a visible spot, that allows me to monitor the operation of the electro valve whilst driving. Mine is a series 1, and my electro valve doesn't sing. I can hear it click in & out, but that's all. The operation of the hydractive defaults to firm if it encounters any dud sensors. It has a self diagnostic function, which you can manually extract fault codes with a simple led blink reader.
    Also, low hydraulic line pressure will imede the shift to soft, or shift it back to hard, even though the electro valve is energised.
    Search "pressure regulator tuning"on the UK XM forum. There's a good blurb on there about it.

    Very good system, but they are old now & no one knows how all this stuff works, so you have to start from scratch.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app

  20. #45
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    I can see I have a steep learning curve ahead of me... Thanks for your insights Motorgnome. I obviously need to keep the possibility of a dud sensor in mind, however at present the tip about low hydraulic pressure might be the clue I was looking for.

    Now I realised that I hadn't tried starting the car since noticing that the suspension seemed to be locked in hard. Starting it did in fact allow it to switch to soft mode, as soon as the beeping stopped! It will hold the soft mode for 30 seconds after I stop the engine and exit the car (doors closed), but then refuse to do it again - sounds like a flat accumulator, so looks like I'm back to the need for new spheres all round.

    I'm very pleased to have read recently (must have been on UK XM forum) that IFHS supply "fresh" spheres that arrive with the proper gas pressures. Just as well, as I have no way of testing/regassing them.

    Also pleased to have 'solved' this issue - however I just observed something else I don't understand...

    When I switch off the car and exit, the suspension is definitely in soft mode - and if I do nothing after closing the door, it switches to hard mode after 30 seconds (as it should). However the electrovalve sound is very muted - in fact I am certain that only the rear electrovalve is buzzing. However if I then reopen the door, the front electrovalve activates and the buzzing becomes much louder! If I do that before the initial 30 seconds is up, suspension stays soft much longer. Anyway, not too stressed about it, as front suspension behaviour seems normal (won't know about rear until new spheres go on) - just puzzled!!!

    Cheers

    Alec

  21. #46
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warrnambool
    Posts
    2,214

    Default

    My understanding of the different hydractive systems in XMs is that in the earlier version hard mode isolated the centre spheres and soft mode left them in the circuit. In the later version the centre spheres were not permanently isolated but in hard mode the trigger points for isolating them (e.g. cornering, sudden braking) were easier to reach.

    So with an early XM I could run with CX spheres on the corners and lock the centre spheres out of circuit and have a car that behaved quite reasonably (though with the centre spheres in the circuit it was awfully wallowy). But with a later XM that trick would not be as effective.

    Roger
    Armidillo likes this.

  22. #47
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,158

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Motorgnome View Post
    I fitted a "tell tale" led in a visible spot, that allows me to monitor the operation of the electro valve whilst driving. Mine is a series 1, and my electro valve doesn't sing. I can hear it click in & out, but that's all. The operation of the hydractive defaults to firm if it encounters any dud sensors. It has a self diagnostic function, which you can manually extract fault codes with a simple led blink reader.
    Also, low hydraulic line pressure will imede the shift to soft, or shift it back to hard, even though the electro valve is energised.
    Search "pressure regulator tuning"on the UK XM forum. There's a good blurb on there about it.

    Very good system, but they are old now & no one knows how all this stuff works, so you have to start from scratch.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app
    It probably needs diodes fitted, They should buzz. a constant 12volt feed would fry them no doubt.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  23. #48
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,405

    Default

    First step is to eliminate any dead spheres and check they are approximately the correct type. The two regulator spheres are like accumulators without a damper, but at different pressures, so you can use a 6Bar accumulator at the front and a partly flat one at the back as reasonable substitutes. The ES9 uses different sphere pressures at the front vs the PRV - 45Bar mains vs 50Bar for PRV. The regulator spheres are 70 or 75 at the front. In practice, there is a range that the spheres are OK, so it's not so critical. The obvious difference is the size of the hole in the damper being, offhand, about 1.2mm for non-Hydractive and more like 0.8mm for a Hydractive. I have used non-Hydractive Xantia spheres on an XM and the ride is not uncontrolled at town speeds. You could try swapping some known good Xantia spheres as a test.

    The other issue you have to look at is the Hydractive control system. There are a number of sensors for body movement and pedal position etc., but these rarely give trouble. However, it has no way of knowing the sphere pressures, so effectively operates independently unless the motion of the car somehow triggers it. The stiffness or regulator sphere blocks are like hydraulic relays with an electrovalve. Be aware that they are not all the same as early units are different to late units. There are actually dampers as you would find in a sphere inside these parts. I've had the o-ring for the cap nut that retains the spool valve split and leak badly. There is a gauze strainer on the end of the valve and it can be perforated if you poke a pick too far inside the threaded port opposite.

    If you hear the electrovalve click in, hold for a few seconds and then out again and do this repeatedly, then it is likely there is a fault with one of both of them. The ECU will deactivate both electrovalves if there is a fault detected in one. It seems the usual issue is the diode encapsulated in the brown plastic winding part of each valve. This is why people advocate fitting external diodes. It does make a difference as fitting these to a car with a ruptured rear sphere masked the problem which was very obvious without the external diodes. You can buy that kit sold via eBay or make up your own if you follow this link:
    https://translate.google.com/transla...ve-citroen-xm/
    For convenience you can fit the diodes near the ECU, but you need to identify the correct wires as they enter the socket. I have the pin references somewhere and will look later.
    Armidillo likes this.

  24. #49
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,405

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    My understanding of the different hydractive systems in XMs is that in the earlier version hard mode isolated the centre spheres and soft mode left them in the circuit. In the later version the centre spheres were not permanently isolated but in hard mode the trigger points for isolating them (e.g. cornering, sudden braking) were easier to reach.

    So with an early XM I could run with CX spheres on the corners and lock the centre spheres out of circuit and have a car that behaved quite reasonably (though with the centre spheres in the circuit it was awfully wallowy). But with a later XM that trick would not be as effective.

    Roger
    H1 and H2 are different and parts are not interchangeable. The third sphere is always switched in for soft mode and out for hard mode. However, H1 apparently switches the third sphere out permanently in 'Sport' mode but controls it in 'Auto' mode, switching between soft and hard modes. H2 has different logic and also uses the third sphere in both 'Normal' and 'sport' modes, switching it in/out as determined by the logic for each mode. The roll limiting differs between H1 and H2 and you are probably aware the corner spheres are different for H1 and H2. Fitting the early corner spheres to a late car gives a hard ride for this reason.

  25. #50
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,112

    Default

    Thanks David - hopefully new spheres (on the way from IFHS - I really don't have a supply of known good spares) will finally let us experience true Citroen ride comfort.

    Mike (previous owner) certainly did his research, and did his best to care for this car (including purchasing 60 litres of LT71141!!!). He has already fitted an e-crofting diode kit, which no doubt contributes to the (very loud) buzzing from the electrovalves - especially the front one! Unfortunately the spheres that Jason regassed for him are not holding up very well.

    How hard should the front be when the suspension is in hard mode? At the moment I cannot detect any front suspension movement at all when at rest (pushing on one corner at the front or using a front door as a lever to rock the car side to side). When we drove it with the front stuck in hard, it was like driving with the suspension on max height - just no travel at all. Am I right that this likely indicates that both front suspension spheres are flat, and that only the hydractive sphere is providing some comfort?

    Cheers

    Alec

Page 2 of 3 First 123 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •