Misfiring
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Thread: Misfiring

  1. #1
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    Default Misfiring

    IMG_1551511788.918844.jpg
    1,2,3and 4.
    Running rich but number 3 looks serious

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    Investigation to follow
    Last edited by Secretsenor; 2nd March 2019 at 07:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nothing to lose if you clean the plugs and inside the distributor cap with carby cleaner, a brush and a pick, reset the gaps and try them again.

  3. #3
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    Default Misfiring

    Iíve cleaned them once and Iím using 123 ignition. It doesnít blow smoke or overheat... might be bad rings. If itís not firing at all in cyl 3 I guess it wouldnít blow smoke?



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    Last edited by Secretsenor; 3rd March 2019 at 07:24 AM.

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Hello, looks more like No 3 is the only one firing properly, or is that what you meant?

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    Default Misfiring

    IMG_1551559495.075438.jpgIMG_1551559519.758162.jpgIMG_1551559538.225641.jpg

    Filled radiator right up and let it idle for 3 mins.

    Coolant looked ok - not bubbling.
    Moisture out of tail pipe and a little smoke.
    The 4/30 marking means 4lb cap?

    Might need a coolant leak tester.
    Other thought is a breach between oil journal and cylinder.... but that doesnít explain the water from tail pipe when i filled the radiator ( it needed a litre to fill it)

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    Default

    IMG_1551560071.465316.jpg
    Oil looks clean.,,,

    Maybe overfilled?


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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, looks more like No 3 is the only one firing properly, or is that what you meant?
    Was thinking it looked oily...


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    Default

    IMG_1551560289.941374.jpg


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    Wound passenger side mixture screw in 2.5 turns and itís running better.

    Still moisture aboutIMG_1551560813.159355.jpg


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  10. #10
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    But no longer misfiring


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  11. #11
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    Leaving a D at idle will make moisture appear at the ends of the tailpipes, a surprising amount too, probably due to the long straight run where condensation can occur.
    Back in the days of leaded fuel plugs would look a different white deposited colour especially after a long hard
    ( efficient ) run. D tailpipes would corrode and flake at the ends on country cars while city cars just glugged up and went black and rotten at the muffler. Of course the exhaust systems were mild steel. The flex pipe between the exhaust manifold (s) down pipe and muffler was a regular replacement item after groundings or breaks caused by dried mud preventing good flex and so creating a fatigue point.
    Now she is running more sweetly give it a good country run and get all of the systems hot and up to temp.
    Have a look at the crankcase ventilation system too. They have been known to clog from oil mist deposits and "ash". There is a small gauze style filter like a mini air cleaner element under the breather dome on the tappet cover and the air cleaner.
    Beware of rotten fuel pipe or leaks caused by worm drive hose clips on old fuel lines.
    Probably not a bad idea to install a new disposable fuel filter below the carburettor now she is alive again after so long sitting.

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    Is the air filter clean enough?

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    Cleaned air filter - very lightly oiled
    Has 2nd new petrol filter in 300 kms from sitting
    Cleaned oil breather filter with petrol
    Iíve done a lot of my he regular maintenance stuff.

    I just assumed the settings (4.5 turns out) was correct as thatís how I received it from a mechanic and it ran well for a few hundred kms.

    I started thinking think I had head gasket problems because of a wet and oily looking plug and 1 ltr it coolant missing and water out exhaust.

    Iíll keep an eye on it but Iím feeling more confident now...


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  14. #14
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    Have you checked the carb float level & for leaking needle valve ? If it's a twin choke Weber, refer to previous postings re setting it up correctly.

    Richard
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    Hook up a vacuum gauge & see what it is telling you, would be my suggestion.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artificer View Post
    Hook up a vacuum gauge & see what it is telling you, would be my suggestion.
    Excuse my ignorance - what would a vacuum gauge inform me of?


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  17. #17
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    I have been a motor mechanic since 1962 when this was the primary tool used for diagnostics, timing, tuning & setting carbs
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utUSI-JYhVU
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
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    It's a Weber carby right. If anyone has been fiddling with it, take it off, check the float level, make sure the brass inlet tube is secure or preferably replace with a screw in barb and then follow the factory manual procedure to set up the carby. People turn screws thinking they are adjusting the idle, but are actually altering the setup of the butterflies and linkage. Giving the carby the once over will usually give you an improvement. If you are careful, you can refit the top without using a new gasket, but do check it for leaks.

    If you haven't already got the pdf version of the relevant manual, look here:
    https://sites.google.com/site/citroenpublicationslist/

  19. #19
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    Iíve been over the carb but didnít adjust mixture screws because Iíve messed them up before. I did note a starting point of about 1.5 turns out I think in the manual. I tuned it toward the lean end of the sweet spot because I was at sea level and I will use the car in the Tas mountains when sheís ready to roll further than the local roads.


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  20. #20
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    Hello, Italian tune-up? That is, go on a long drive, rev the nuts off it, if you're worried about the Police, keep in third. Then, if you can, find a long gentle incline, drive hard up it, stop without letting it idle and inspect the plugs.
    What number plugs are you using?
    Peter

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    Bog standard NGK BP6HS plugs.

    I drove it after adjusting the mixture on the passenger side of the carb and it seems ok.

    Now I know where the issue was Iíll fine tune as I drive it more.


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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    It's a Weber carby right. If anyone has been fiddling with it, take it off, check the float level, make sure the brass inlet tube is secure or preferably replace with a screw in barb and then follow the factory manual procedure to set up the carby. People turn screws thinking they are adjusting the idle, but are actually altering the strop of the butterflies. Giving the carby the once over will usually give you an improvement. If you are careful, you can refit the top without using a new gasket, but do check it for leaks.

    If you haven't already got the pdf version of the relevant manual, look here:
    https://sites.google.com/site/citroenpublicationslist/
    Just waiting to hear back from buttercup re fuel inlet.

    Now that Iíve cleaned the carb and got it back on. It doesnít seem to be leaking and itís running ok. Iím going to leave it for now. I put a new float needle in when I cleaned the carb - it was very worn.

    Happy enough with it for now but will fine tune over time.


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