Fix for stop lights coming ob when DS settles?
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Thread: Fix for stop lights coming ob when DS settles?

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    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Default Fix for stop lights coming ob when DS settles?

    Anyone has a fix for the above?
    Whenever the car settles from ride height to low, the stop lights will come on, and stay on , unless I give the brake pedal a quick push. Obviously, if I don't do that , it'll drain the battery. Annoying thing though, is it doesn't come on straight away, but later on. So if you want to park at the shops, you may need to wait 30min before you can leave the car......

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    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    so it stays on with ignition off? Bizarre if it is. Sounds like an earth problem which could be the earth connection on the brake pedal gear? Just a hunch.

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    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Yes, thought also earth, but because it seems to be linked the vehicle's lowering height, I thought more likely a switch, or something making contact.
    I know I am not the only one it happens to, but don't know how to fix
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    Default Fix for stop lights coming ob when DS settles?

    Iím wondering if the brake light switch needs adjusting or cleaning. There might be just enough freeplay in the pedal assembly that it could cause the contacts to close as the carís angle changes.

    The switch is on the brake pedal assembly in the footwell. Youíll have to take off all the cover plates to actually see the switch.

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    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Thanks, looks like a little job for the Christmas break then : 2 weeks should see that sorted!
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    Look for pictures of an old valve or inspect one if you have it, but I have a vague memory of someone facing a similar problem and finding there was an insulating strip in the pedal assembly that had eventually rubbed through after decades of use. Does that ring any bells? (Hard to pick them out from the others this time of year.)

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Another long term safer solution is to change the power supply for the brake lights over to an ignition switched supply rather than the direct to battery supply which all cars of the time seemed to have.

    My SM seems to do something odd as well in that after you start the motor and pump up the hydraulics after a few days rest, then turn the motor off without touching the brake button, the brake lights will jam on and stay on until the brake button is pressed a few times and the blart noises stop. I'm not sure what's going on here but there must be some air/nitrogen in the brakes.

    Cheers, Ken
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    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Yes, it seems to be definitely related to car angle or height, as it will only come one after a certain amount of time and a certain height.

    So either cleaning and adjusting contact or insulating strip worn off as suggested above are two ideas worth researching.
    Although the quickest and less involved may well be as Ken says to re-organise the power supply.....

    Thanks for the help.
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    I think youíd have to unwrap the main loom that runs behind the dashboard to reroute the power feed. Adding relays wonít really solve the problem as youíll still have a power drain through the coils.

    The cover plates have to come off to get at the switchís wiring unless you want to remove the carpet from the firewall or take the dash out.


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    After pondering all the options, and not looking forward to spending lots of hours on this. I think may be installing one of those battery isolator switch inside the cabin is probably the easiest ( one of those with the big red plastic key). That shouldn't be a problem, should it?Isolator.jpg
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    The ugly pink car does this randomly.... it would drive you nuts. I remember maybe Middlemoon warned me to double check that damn switch when I had it in bits too Tapping the floor around the brake valve usually fixes it for a short time.

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    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Yes , that's right tapping the floor or hitting the brake pedal a couple of times will stop it, trouble is, once you park it doesn't do it straight away, maybe 10-15 minutes later as the car descends. So anytime you go for a drive, you have to stay with the car until it happens, so you can remedy it before you leave. Otherwise, when back = battery flat. It s a pain!
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    Hello, a few minor problems with the isolator switch. Where are you going to put it? They are quite chunky. If it only does the main battery feed, if switched off with the engine running, the motor will still run and the alternator diodes may get fried. The motor sport type are better as they cut the ignition circuit plus they usually come with ballast resistor to soak up any output from the alternator.

    An easy way to get an ignition controlled feed is from the coil. The wire can be poked back through the bulkhead to the brake switch. Or from the coil feed on the ignition switch.

    Have you tried a new switch?

    Peter

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    why not just extract and test/replace the brake switch It is what I intend to do someday .... when I have spare time
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    Agree with faulksy, it’d be worth adjusting the switch first. It’s a really simple arrangement with a threaded rod that can be screwed in/out to change the point when the brake lights come on.

    There’s a small black plastic end piece that fits on the rod and presses on the electrical contact, which might be worn or have some dirt trapped in the gap and just need a blast of carb cleaner spray. If wound out enough the brake light won’t come on even when you press hard on the pedal, so wind it in a bit from there and find the point where a light touch (but not a very light touch) will bring on the light.
    Cheers, Marc.

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