23 EFI cooling
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Thread: 23 EFI cooling

  1. #1
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    Default 23 EFI cooling

    I have recently removed the standard Aux air device and replaced it with something much simpler, but that's another story. I,m interested to find out if blocking off the water outlet at the rear of the water pump will have any deleterious effect.
    Woody

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Tell us the story about what you replaced the aux air valve with on the DS EFI ? I have to do something similar on the SM EFI.

    Cheers, Ken

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    Yes, you either said too much , or not enough. We want to know the WHOLE story.
    DS Un jour, DS toujours !

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian woodcock View Post
    I have recently removed the standard Aux air device and replaced it with something much simpler, but that's another story. I,m interested to find out if blocking off the water outlet at the rear of the water pump will have any deleterious effect.
    Woody
    I dont think it will matter if you block off the water hoses.
    But more importantly is what you replaced the Aux air with , I have the same problem with my DS23 EFi

    on a completely different subject do you know where the temp sender is located as my temp gauge does not work.
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    As for the Aux air valve, I got a 3/8 ball valve from Bunnings which is located discretly under the dash, this is connected to the inlet manifold with 3/8 tubing. When fully open is causes the cold engine to idle at about 1000rpm. It produces a gentle hissing sound which is a reminder.
    Regarding the temp sender, sometimes on the water pump housing, sometimes in the cylinder head towards the rear between induction pipes.
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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Sounds like a manual controller for idle speed Woody.

    I got a hint from John Walton at DS Motors and that is to use a BX TRI/TZI idle speed controller. You plumb it into the auxiliary air line and connect it electrically between 12 volt and chassis. When cold the orifice is open and allows extra air into the inlet manifold. As the internal resistor heats up the rotating mechanism inside, the orifice gently closes off at about the same time constant as the engine warms up and needs less air. I think it seals better with air flow through in the direction so that atmospheric pressure pushes against the rotating disc against the fixed disc.

    If anyone else tries this, let us know how it goes.

    Cheers Ken

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    Ken ,I formerly used one like that off a Nissan Skyline until it packed up.
    Woody

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian woodcock View Post
    As for the Aux air valve, I got a 3/8 ball valve from Bunnings which is located discretly under the dash, this is connected to the inlet manifold with 3/8 tubing. When fully open is causes the cold engine to idle at about 1000rpm. It produces a gentle hissing sound which is a reminder.
    Regarding the temp sender, sometimes on the water pump housing, sometimes in the cylinder head towards the rear between induction pipes.
    My DS23 injection had its temperature sender unit attached to the additional air control, buried way down near the extra oil cooler duct on the left side of the engine sump. maybe the replacement with a non genuine item means the original placement is just no longer available. It was a B/W automatic so who knows if that makes a difference or whether it is the usual batch by batch production differences at play.

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    I believe that item on the Aux air valve is a temp switch, presumably for the red light. I have never had a D with an original temp gauge so I am in the dark there. The item towards the rear of the head with 2 wires is the thermotime switch.

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    Depending on model, year and day the car was made the switch for the dashboard light is either on the aux air valve or screwed into the water pump housing.

    OP 521.4 in manual 814 goes through fitting a temp gauge and sender to the water pump housing


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    Quote Originally Posted by brian woodcock View Post
    I believe that item on the Aux air valve is a temp switch, presumably for the red light. I have never had a D with an original temp gauge so I am in the dark there. The item towards the rear of the head with 2 wires is the thermotime switch.
    Nope !!! I connected a temp sender that was attached to the aux air control to a temp gauge, both supplied as new genuine parts....in period when such things were available.

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    I took my AAV and hoses off completely, connected a new water hose from the back of the pump to the alloy connector thatís bolted to the side of the cylinder head and fitted a plastic cap to block the hole in the inlet manifold where the air hose usually fits. Have been running like that for 2 years, without problems. Itís just a case of using the throttle pedal a bit to stop it from stalling when the engineís cold for the first minute, or preferably just get moving and once youíve gone up through the gears once or twice thereís no chance itíll stall.

    I donít drive it in really cold weather or have to join queuing traffic straight away when not having an AAV might be a bit more of a problem. Iíve found it so little hassle that I wonít be going back to fitting one, even if someone gave me one for free that worked properly 🙂
    Cheers, Marc.

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    The AAV is almost impossible to keep in working order on cars that arenít regularly driven. I ended up bypassing it completely. Car starts just fine on 5deg mornings with a bit of throttle.

    Itís handy to keep it plumbed in if you want somewhere for a temp sender and a switch for the dash light. Iíd be loathed to only have the temp gauge sender.


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    This is all very interesting stuff but how about dealing with my original question!
    Woody

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    Instead of blocking off the outlet, run a hose down to where it joins the lower radiator hose


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