My "new" CX coupla things to be sorted
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Thread: My "new" CX coupla things to be sorted

  1. #1
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    Default My "new" CX coupla things to be sorted

    Tragic here, as well as having a BX, I have now splurged on a 'dead' CX. The crank angle sensor was kaput, ordered a couple from Darrin at Citroenclassics in late Nov. They arrived a couple of days ago. They are the Ford ones, model 6502253 and it is thanks to Shane who kindly replied to my query a couple of months ago (see CX2400 crank angle sensor). And they work, though the anchoring will have to be sorted out. The car started, and rose. The car is a CX25IE early 1985 auto.
    Now, I am new to CX here, folks, a couple of things ain't working. The driver's electric window is not rising. Most likely fix would be?
    Driver's seat not reclining or raising/lowering.
    Which Dexron is the more suitable for the auto box (3HP22)?
    Will try to post a piccy later,
    Cheers
    Lou

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Maybe see if you can swap some switches around for the drivers window. The seat issue seems more like a power or earth problem so see if you can find a blown fuse or test for power and connection to chassis on the wiring to the seat system. (electric seats on a CX - never heard of that before)

    Cheers, Ken

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    Fellow Frogger! andrewj's Avatar
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    For drivers side electric window, if swapping switches doesn't work, check for broken wires where loom goes from the body to the door.
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    Driving - '90 XM, '85 CX IE Auto, 406 Coupe, 405 srdt wagon, '78 dyane, Resting (or Rusting): '73 Birotor '82 CX Presitige, '81 CX Break IE, GS X2, GS1015 Wagon, GS 1300 5sp Wagon, '76 GS 1220 Wagon, '75 GS Wagon, '58 2CV, '58 Vauxhall Velox

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewj View Post
    For drivers side electric window, if swapping switches doesn't work, check for broken wires where loom goes from the body to the door.
    Good call! and the relays around the battery if you have recently changed the battery (the plugs often get knocked off).
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    The battery is the same, no change, ran the engine yesterday to see if the cooling fans came on. They didn't. Wiil check a few thaings later this week (car is several k's from home and can only attend between shifts). When engine off and keyy removed the battery charge light is on. Engine running - the light is off. Do I need a new alternator?
    Driver's seat is not electric - just a stuck raising mechanism.
    Dexron 2 or 3 for the 3HP22?
    Thanks for your various replies.
    RegarDS
    Lou

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Lou,

    Sounds like a relay is stuck on (or shorted out) for the alternator light to be getting power when the ignition is off. The fan relays are probably suspect as well. You can check these without running the engine by disconnecting the wires to the temp sensor on the radiator and shorting the low speed/temp lead to earth and then shorting the high speed/temp to earth as well.

    I would pull all the relay connectors off one at a time and check for burned spades and sockets and clean with contact cleaner so they get good contact.

    Take the seat out to fix the lifting mechanism.

    Cheers, Ken

  7. #7
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    DEX 2 for the transmission. Also known as Castrol Transmax M. Don't let the spotty youf at Repco tell you different.

    I agree re the wire in the door - ours had the same problem. It was either slooooooooooow or non functional. I repaired the partly broken wire and it worked.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Does the window go one way and not the other?

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    Fellow Frogger! CXVingtCinq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    DEX 2 for the transmission. Also known as Castrol Transmax M. Don't let the spotty youf at Repco tell you different.

    I agree re the wire in the door - ours had the same problem. It was either slooooooooooow or non functional. I repaired the partly broken wire and it worked.
    Agree. Dexron II is the go. Also available as Penrite Classic ATF
    https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...-atf-mineral#/
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    Cheers, Peter J
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    Thanks fellas, have noted your tips/advice. Am currently 'at work' and won't be able to visit the CX until saturday arvo at the earliest. I have not yet tried the driver;s window. It is down so I left it like that as the garage bloke also tried it - no go.
    The original crank angle sensor which was 'dead' = filed a half mil off the end - there was no shim so it was contacting the flywheel teeth. Exposed some of the coil, put it back in for 'look see' and the engine fired up. So- if your CA sensor is 'dead' either file a bit off the end or increase the shim thickness and give it a try. I have a theory.....
    As for the gearbox, there was ahalf empty Dexron 3 container in the boot. Will scout around for the D2 stuff or equivalent.
    Am trying to rescue this beautiful old French girl and get her back on the road. Will eventually need a complete binacle, most console parts, a carpet, dare say a driver;s seat - the leather is falling apart, roof lining (how does it come off?). But the body has minimal rust as it had been garaged nearly all its life.
    Cheers
    Lou

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    The later roof linings attach with plastic clips just like the door cards. They are difficult to remove intact.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loudel View Post
    Thanks fellas, have noted your tips/advice. Am currently 'at work' and won't be able to visit the CX until saturday arvo at the earliest. I have not yet tried the driver;s window. It is down so I left it like that as the garage bloke also tried it - no go.
    The original crank angle sensor which was 'dead' = filed a half mil off the end - there was no shim so it was contacting the flywheel teeth. Exposed some of the coil, put it back in for 'look see' and the engine fired up. So- if your CA sensor is 'dead' either file a bit off the end or increase the shim thickness and give it a try. I have a theory.....
    As for the gearbox, there was ahalf empty Dexron 3 container in the boot. Will scout around for the D2 stuff or equivalent.
    Am trying to rescue this beautiful old French girl and get her back on the road. Will eventually need a complete binacle, most console parts, a carpet, dare say a driver;s seat - the leather is falling apart, roof lining (how does it come off?). But the body has minimal rust as it had been garaged nearly all its life.
    Cheers
    Lou
    One of the flywheels sensors should have a shim under it ..... I bet someone has lost yours
    alhantos likes this.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  13. #13
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loudel View Post
    Thanks fellas, have noted your tips/advice. Am currently 'at work' and won't be able to visit the CX until saturday arvo at the earliest. I have not yet tried the driver;s window. It is down so I left it like that as the garage bloke also tried it - no go.
    The original crank angle sensor which was 'dead' = filed a half mil off the end - there was no shim so it was contacting the flywheel teeth. Exposed some of the coil, put it back in for 'look see' and the engine fired up. So- if your CA sensor is 'dead' either file a bit off the end or increase the shim thickness and give it a try. I have a theory.....
    As for the gearbox, there was ahalf empty Dexron 3 container in the boot. Will scout around for the D2 stuff or equivalent.
    Am trying to rescue this beautiful old French girl and get her back on the road. Will eventually need a complete binacle, most console parts, a carpet, dare say a driver;s seat - the leather is falling apart, roof lining (how does it come off?). But the body has minimal rust as it had been garaged nearly all its life.
    Cheers
    Lou
    One of the flywheels sensors should have a shim under it ..... I bet someone has lost yours
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  14. #14
    UFO
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    The roof linings let go as the foam between the fabric and the glue on the inside of the roof perishes. I suppose an auto trimmer could repair/replace by putting those rod things inside a new lining.

    When you find the ATF get about three x 4l containers and do a gradual change over a few weeks.
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    Craig K
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  15. #15
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    Classic ATF is a Dexron 2 mineral fluid as listed by Penrite, but only held in very small quantities apparently. So, it will vey likely be a special order and that means you are up for a box of 4 x 5 litre containers.

  16. #16
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    A problem with one of my old cx window was the grease had gone hard around the motor drive screw.
    Whilst cleaning the switchs and checking for broken wires,pull the motor out,take off cover and clean
    old grease out,re-lube and it might be good.

  17. #17
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    Thankyou for the many replies, have again checked the car and found a green wire broken at the driver's door to body space. Suspect that it is the reason why the electric window is u/s. Will reconnect in dues course and report.
    The alternator is a Bosch looks fairly recent. I did find along green wire coming from the lhs fuse box to near the battery - the wire was floating freely in space.
    I also found on the battery terminal nearer the hp pump (the +?) a yellow connector that had a broken wire broken off it.
    How do I replace the front parking/blinker bulbs? (series 1 CX with stainless bumper).
    The radiator 'bottle' took at least 1 and half litres of green stuff and could possibly take more. Is there a max/min level indication?
    The 'bottle' had brownish gunk in the bottom - can the bottle be removed and cleaned?
    The car started again with the original CA sensor I had filed down, she rose beautifully, but each front corner is rather hard on the push down test. The rear corners are ok. Which seems like it needs new front spheres, given that it was last on the road in 2013 that is not surprising.
    The coolant temp indicator does not seem to have a needle. Am I missing something?
    The engine, while it did run, idled slowly - about 550rpm. And seemed to idle/run a on the rough side. A 'blat' on the accelerator and the engine accelerated then couldn't regain idle and died. Am loathe to remove any engine bits at this stage as the car is to be moved before chrissy, preferably under its own power.
    Cheers
    Lou

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    Front bulb replacement - BEWARE this task means dealing with possibly brittle plastic. The units are spring-loaded and held in place by plastic locating tags on each side of the unit which lock it into the bumper. Push the light back gently, wiggle it side to side and you'll be able to see the locating tags. Use a flat-bladed screw driver to gently push the tag toward the unit until it clears the bumper, the spring loading should then push the unit forward so you can remove it from the bumper. The bulb holders (on 2400 models at least) are also held by possibly brittle plastic clips, you'll see them clearly once you've got the unit free of the bumper.
    Bruce H

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