Low oil pressure in 2007 C5 2L
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Thread: Low oil pressure in 2007 C5 2L

  1. #1
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    Icon9 Low oil pressure in 2007 C5 2L

    My wife called me this morning to say her car overheated and told her to stop. She drove a little further and it told her to pull over due to low oil pressure. I went to her and the dipstick was almost dry but coolant was ok. I put 4L of oil into the engine a litre at a time until the dipstick looked ok (turned out to be too much after starting and the head drained down). It was very hot. It cranked ok but wouldn't idle the first few tries. Eventually it started and sounded the same as it usually does. We moved the car a few km and it threw up the low oil pressure light again. We let it cool for 15 minutes, moved it another km and had no warnings. I came back to it about 45 minutes later and gave it a test drive. This time it gave me no errors for 5 minutes but felt like it was in limp mode (like it wouldn't go into 1st gear - automatic). At the end of 5 minutes it gave me a low oil pressure warning again when I came to a complete stop in drive gear. I rolled it around the corner to park it and the warning went away until I stopped again, which made it come back.

    So obviously she didn't notice the low oil warning (it's on the odo rather than the big main screen where depolution faults and these new oil pressure warnings appear).

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    The questions are:
    Do you think the engine will still be able to be used in this state?
    Does the AL4 gearbox even have a limp mode, or was this an engine issue?
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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Is this a petrol or a diesel?

    I think the AL4 does have a limp home mode if its ECU detects a problem.

    If the engine sounds OK, I would try putting some Nulon E20 Engine Treatment in and see if that brings up the oil pressure a bit over the next few drives. Needless to say, you should be checking the oil level on the dipstick more often.

    Cheers, Ken

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    Whatís been done lately oil change? Cam belt ?


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    Nothing done lately. Oil has been changed on schedule but being a 165,000km PSA engine, it consumes oil.

    Thanks for the suggestion Ken, I'll try the Nulon E20 and see how it goes.
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  5. #5
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    My hid C5 has more km than that & uses very little oil, I suspect something is amiss.

    RTergards

    agd123

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    You haven't told us whether it's petrol or diesel, but your story has (alarmingly) common features with what has recently happened to a friend of mine's 307 HDi 1.6l (diesel) - yes yours is 2L, but I don't think that prevents the same thing happening.

    Due to use of incorrect oil (synthetic, but not low SAPS/ash) + lots of short trips, his car developed the following:

    1. Low oil pressure - due to build up of sludge/carbon on the oil pump pickup/strainer

    2. Loss of power - due to clogging of the oil feed to the turbo by the sludge - this in turn led to failure of turbo (this happened before the low oil pressure warning came up, but he kept on driving!!!)

    3. EGR valve blocked up

    Need I go on? We think his engine is repairable, as it was never low on oil, but work hasn't started yet. The alternative is to replace the engine with a 2nd hand one - he got a quote from a mechanic who wants to fit new injectors and turbo to the 2nd hand engine - $8,500, or double what the car is worth.

    I can't explain where so much oil could have gone - I have PSA (petrol) engines with 300,000+ km that use no oil, and a son and another friend with high mileage PSA diesels with no problems on this front.

    You need to get it professionally assessed - urgently. Reading the stored fault codes may help, but there's no sensor to report a failed turbo, so you need someone familiar with them to know if that's the problem or not. Here's the thread that I tacked my friend's story onto - 908HDI has done an excellent job of research and communication:

    1.6 HDI Oil Lubrication and Maintenance. Avoiding Problems.


    Cheers

    Alec

    PS - agd123 - an hid is a headlight, an HDi is a diesel engine.
    Last edited by Armidillo; 8th November 2018 at 04:27 PM.

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    I suspect an AL4 makes it a 2L petrol.

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    I'm not assuming anything...

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    By 200,000 km, our 306 started using quite a bit of oil and was nearly run dry (but NOT fortunately). Valve guide seals seemed to be the issue and it is far cheaper to accept the oil consumption than fix it. We all get used to cars using very little between changes I know.
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    JohnW

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    So it turns out that in my haste to check the water at the side of a busy highway after just waking up, I checked the washer fluid not the coolant . It seems the oil pressure loss was due to the reduced viscosity when it got too hot.

    Upon investigating the issue further (next to a nice quiet park where the car ended up), this cheap nasty plastic connector on the heater pipe had broken. It seems PSA in their infinite wisdom thought ABS plastic would like to be right next to the exhaust manifold .
    Low oil pressure in 2007 C5 2L-heater-pipe.jpg
    So I went to Supercheap, got an AU Falcon heater hose and put that on instead. It fits nicely enough that it won't restrict flow or anything. That cable holder on the old hose seems superfluous anyway because there's a holder on the exhaust manifold heat shield for it anyway (pretty sure it's the downstream lambda sensor so the heat of the shield doesn't matter). I filled it back up with distilled water and took out about 2L of oil. I checked the bottle I filled it from and it still had about 2L left out of 5L, so it seems it was probably only just below the dipstick. The extra oil I added probably protected it a bit while it ran a short distance without coolant. It started and had 1st gear back, and was happy to run slowly for 15 minutes around back streets, so the thermostat seems to be working.

    I'm planning to bring it back home this afternoon when my wife's available to drive it. Then I'll drop the water out and replace it with proper blue coolant and change the oil and filter. It looks like it's all fine now. Thanks for the advice everyone.
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    Fellow Frogger! dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    Never seen one break by itself most cars have plastic water hose fittings


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    I haven't seen anything different for years. I wouldn't worry about engine heat - it's full of very hot water anyway, which will act as a coolant if radiant heat should build up. The coolant always circulates.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufires View Post
    So it turns out that in my haste to check the water at the side of a busy highway after just waking up, I checked the washer fluid not the coolant . It seems the oil pressure loss was due to the reduced viscosity when it got too hot.

    Upon investigating the issue further (next to a nice quiet park where the car ended up), this cheap nasty plastic connector on the heater pipe had broken. It seems PSA in their infinite wisdom thought ABS plastic would like to be right next to the exhaust manifold .
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Heater pipe.jpg 
Views:	41 
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ID:	110613
    So I went to Supercheap, got an AU Falcon heater hose and put that on instead. It fits nicely enough that it won't restrict flow or anything. That cable holder on the old hose seems superfluous anyway because there's a holder on the exhaust manifold heat shield for it anyway (pretty sure it's the downstream lambda sensor so the heat of the shield doesn't matter). I filled it back up with distilled water and took out about 2L of oil. I checked the bottle I filled it from and it still had about 2L left out of 5L, so it seems it was probably only just below the dipstick. The extra oil I added probably protected it a bit while it ran a short distance without coolant. It started and had 1st gear back, and was happy to run slowly for 15 minutes around back streets, so the thermostat seems to be working.

    I'm planning to bring it back home this afternoon when my wife's available to drive it. Then I'll drop the water out and replace it with proper blue coolant and change the oil and filter. It looks like it's all fine now. Thanks for the advice everyone.
    That arrangement looks very similar to what's found in Xantiae, and the hard plastic bends are known to fail in them, with the same results of course. Fingers crossed your engine has survived without obvious damage, but I would be keeping a very close eye on oil useage, as it may increase after this little saga! Pleased to hear it's not another sludgy oil case!

    Cheers

    Alec

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    Blue coolant? I've been using Nulon One as easy to buy and a tad cheaper than OEM which can't be mixed with anything off the shelf. 5 litre bottles plus ready to pour 1 liters available.
    Check their website if compatible.
    Good luck 😊

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    By 200,000 km, our 306 started using quite a bit of oil and was nearly run dry (but NOT fortunately). Valve guide seals seemed to be the issue and it is far cheaper to accept the oil consumption than fix it. We all get used to cars using very little between changes I know.
    Hi
    My C5 petrol always used oil from the day I got it with only ~120000 ks on it. It used a liter between oil changes. I do not think it got worse over the years I had it. Like John said why bother with a fix as it went perfectly and caused no problems. I checked the oil gauge for roughly correct operation, and used that for monitoring between other checks. I have always found Mobile 1 5w-50 cuts oil usage a lot and is an excellent oil for all motors. Perhaps not for particulate filters though.

    Some engines do just use oil ! Must be some small irregular item somewhere in the motor. Why worry about the small stuff.
    Jaahn

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    Fellow Frogger! dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    Slippery rings on modern cars


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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    Slippery rings on modern cars

    How the engine is run in can be vital - and yes, I know modern engines are made so well that running in is hardly necessary these days, but bores can get glazed.

  18. #18
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    I heard from some of the 206 GTi people that fully synthetic oil drips past the valve seals more easily than semi-synthetic. I switched and ended up burning less oil. I don't think that's an option with my C5 as it's a later MK2 with the EW10A instead of the EW10J4. Same power but VVT so you need to use fully synthetic oil.
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