SM battery replacement - HELP!
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Thread: SM battery replacement - HELP!

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default SM battery replacement - HELP!

    Help!

    is there any shortcut to replacing the battery?

    or do i really have to dismantle half the front of the car?

    it looks as if i have to remove
    -the bonnet locking mechanism,
    -the drivers side [rhd car] headlights [ euro lights]
    -the 12v regulator which on my car is mounted on the front of the wheel arch directly above the battery.

    there is no battery access hatch.... no idea why.... ask Peter McLeod

    the usual wheel arch shrouds and linings are all in place.

    alternative is to just keep jump starting and use one of the newish book sized auxiliary batteries and just pretend everything is fine!!!!!!!

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    thanx in anticipation of your various jokes, insights into my ineptitude and actual advice too.

    jon faine

  2. #2
    Member ajm212's Avatar
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    Is this not the answer: Battery - Citroen SM Wiki?

  3. #3
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Hi Jon,
    Have a look here, looks to be fairly straight forward. . .
    Battery - Citroen SM Wiki

    Edit: Dang! ajm212 beat me by that ][ much

    Cheers
    Chris
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    If advice is good advice - it's worth having twice!
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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Jon,

    Even the owners manual has a very understated procedure for taking the battery out through the removable panel in the RHS front wheel arch. Watch how you pull it out as it doesn't go back in all that easily.

    Also it is fun getting the battery vertical stays hooked into their holes before you tighten the nuts - especially the inner one. At least you can get you hand down to feel the outer one.

    Bon Chance, Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    Hi Jon,

    Even the owners manual has a very understated procedure for taking the battery out through the removable panel in the RHS front wheel arch. Watch how you pull it out as it doesn't go back in all that easily.

    Also it is fun getting the battery vertical stays hooked into their holes before you tighten the nuts - especially the inner one. At least you can get you hand down to feel the outer one.

    Bon Chance, Ken
    Yes Jon,
    The tricky French.
    I have a flat battery - how do I change it. Read the manual.
    Simple just start the engine and put the suspension on high etc etc.
    Err, but I have a flat battery !!!
    I loved this little quirk when I briefly owned an SM.
    cheers
    Ted Cross
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! deesse's Avatar
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    Hi Jon,

    A bastard of a job. The hardest bit was getting it all back together again. I did notice the replacement battery I got was a bit smaller though still rated the same. It looked like it would almost fit in from above though you will still need to get your old one out (tin snips?).
    I invested in a trickle charger to keep my new one in top working order and hopefully avoid the replacement for as long as possible.
    Let me know if you need help.
    cheers Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by deesse View Post
    Hi Jon,

    A bastard of a job. The hardest bit was getting it all back together again. I did notice the replacement battery I got was a bit smaller though still rated the same. It looked like it would almost fit in from above though you will still need to get your old one out (tin snips?).
    I invested in a trickle charger to keep my new one in top working order and hopefully avoid the replacement for as long as possible.
    Let me know if you need help.
    cheers Tony
    On size: consider an AGM ("absorbed glass mat") battery as a replacement. It's still lead/acid but "dry" & is more compact for a given CCA (& has the merit of an initial "overboost" - so a 500 CA battery might give 800 CCA for a brief initial period). I am sufficiently persuaded of their merits to now have them in 3 of my toys & the rest of the fleet (toy & non-toy) shall have them in due course as batteries die.

    Various brands are available & I have chosen one of the cheapest: a mob called "Full River".

    On charging: my Djet has an awkwardly placed battery & I have had a remote charging point fitted in a convenient place (screw-off-covered terminals on which to damp the charger clips) - splendid & highly recommended.

    cheers! Peter

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger
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    The battery area is well exposed if you remove the front guard.

  10. #10
    UFO
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    An alternate method as a former local owner of an SM learned. Was, wait until the battery tray and support rusts through and the battery drops on the road on your way to work in the morning in peak traffic.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I remember Roger Brundle telling me once the access is through the wheel arch ................................ Which is really handy when you have a dead battery and can't start the car so it will lift up and allow you access
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Maybe one needs to carry one of those jacking pads that slides into the square hole in the sill just behind the front wheel so you can jack up the front wheel so it is clear of the ground and take it off. That would give you some access to the door but you would still be crawling around on the ground.

    Doesn't nearly every handy person carry around a jump starter these days?

    Cheers, Ken

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! citroenthusiast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonf View Post
    Help!

    is there any shortcut to replacing the battery?

    there is no battery access hatch.... no idea why....
    If there is really no battery access hatch, then yes you will have to disassemble a fair bit of the RF side. Be especially careful with the brittle plastic bits of the turning/self leveling mechanism. If you have a USA spec car, it is a lot easier.
    Cheers,
    John T.

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  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Jon,

    There is not a door per se, it is a panel the unbolts (about 8 bolts) and then can be withdrawn from the area at the front of the wheel arch. It attaches with the same bolts that hold the front suspension cover and edges around the bottom curve of the front wing then back across at the level of the top of the battery.

    If there is really no battery hatch, then the easiest thing to do is to take the front guard off.

    I found you have to have the battery out to remove the euro light pod and touching the rest of the stuff you mention could be risky.

    Cheers, Ken

  15. #15
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    tempting as the "wait until it rusts through" approach is....[thanx Craig / UFO... you made me laugh]

    and lord knows we need to laugh a bit more

    i will jump start it, jack it up, remove the front wheel, attack as many bolt heads as i can see

    try not to remove extra bits

    will try to leave the guard intact

    and see if I can find a suitable long life replacement that is less bulky

    and then, once it is running and drivable, I can next try to find the elusive LHM leak in front drivers side

    and might even get the bugger back on the road!!!!!

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Jon,

    The height of the battery is pretty critical as you will see when you make the 90 degree turn while sliding the battery out. So make sure you don't buy one that is too high to get in under the voltage regulator. With the move to closed in tops on new style batteries, the overall height seems to have jumped up a bit. I have just fitted a Century N70 series battery into mine earlier this year.

    If you get the same size battery, the top frame will fit nicely on it without any danger of bending it when tightening. Also the floor of the battery tray on my car was all greased over which makes sliding the battery a bit easier and maybe reduces the risk of rusting.

    Cheers, Ken
    Last edited by Ken W; 19th September 2018 at 10:01 AM. Reason: More hints

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