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  1. #26
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    so its rack out time, I have bushes ready to go.

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  2. #27
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    Bit tricky but can remove without taking rack out

  3. #28
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    I haven’t got enough access time on a hoist and I ain’t getting under a car with stands and a jack so will go ahead with rack out, already have heat shield off which was a massive struggle on the hoist. still need to figure out what the clunk is though.

    damn I have to get under it to undo the bolts. I much prefer doing this crap on a hoist.

  4. #29
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    There is enough room to remove the power steering ram on a base model Xantia but I suspect the addition of Hydractive sensors and/or Activa anti-roll correctors and links means it is a rack out job on these models.

    Don't forget my hint that the rack will go back in with the heat shield on so don't forget to put it back on before feeding the rack back in otherwise you will never get the heatshield back on.

    Cheers, Ken
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  5. #30
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    thanks Ken, removing it several months ago on hoist was a real struggle!

    So I've got the beastie on stands and follwing Addo's instructions and I can't for the life of me see the lower shaft to the pinion spline lifting up, what to do? Had a go at tapping the lower shaft up on the joints. Won't slide up the upper shaft in the cabin at all.
    done these parts up to 9. so far:

    7. Loosen 13mm bolt on splined clamp of steering column
    8. Through offside wheelarch, remove 6mm socket headed capscrew of steering column lower splined clamp
    9. Carefully push column lower section up and free of splines; turn inside and out of the way


  6. #31
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Try rocking the steering back and forth a bit to loosen the splines. Then try pulling up on the lower steering shaft in the car. Does it feel loose in the joint going up to the steering wheel? Try rocking the splines on the steering rack - maybe you can get them moving by levering with a large flat bladed screwdriver.

    Remember to keep steering wheel at centre position once it is disconnected from the rack. You don't want to over stress the airbag linking spiral that only goes two turns in either direction from centre.

    Cheers, Ken

  7. #32
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    ta Ken where there's a will of course. Going to have another crack this arvo. It will need some genuine gusto I think.

    update; no way the lower column section was going to come free wriggling so undid the steering wheel column and pulled it back, pulled the firewall boot off the lower section and then it pushed up and off. Little swine!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 19th November 2018 at 01:42 PM.

  8. #33
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    quick question does anybody have a dead power steering rack for a xantia with the ram pipes, I'm looking for original pipes as the ones I keep hetting made up pack it in.

    Just need the 2 pipes( at the moment!)

    cheers

    Steven

  9. #34
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    quick question does anybody have a dead power steering rack for a xantia with the ram pipes, I'm looking for original pipes as the ones I keep hetting made up pack it in.

    Just need the 2 pipes( at the moment!)

    cheers

    Steven
    I'm in the final stages of wrecking a Xantia, it may have what you need....
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  10. #35
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    Hey Ken, I got the rack out! Now I can't find the new left side boot I had lined up to fit....


    quick Xantia questionv-ca9b654f-e89d-4350-90fc-0d251060466b.jpg
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  11. #36
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Well done Stephen,

    The easiest way to fit the left rack boot is to ease back the rubber cover on the ball joint with a large flat bladed screwdriver, on that side so you can get some crimp pliers onto the ball joint outer and unscrew to remove the tie-rod. Then with the ram removed (to put the new bushes into), You feed the boot over the ram end attachment stud and around the corner and onto the rack.

    Cheers, Ken
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  12. #37
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    ha when I find the boot. It has officially disappeared and I'm cranky. Have to order another leak back sleeve anyhow so tbc. Just put new bushes on ram, Definitely the cause of the pipe cracking, the one on the pipe side was virtually non existent. no rubber left whatsoever!

  13. #38
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    well I have the rack back in, I was getting the steering wheel column back onto the middle shaft to the rack and when I removed it I needed a bit more stretch so I pulled out the wires for the light stalk, now I actually took the top off the switch in my haste, so I found these bits on the deck and now trying to figure out the configuration in the switch. Is anyone familiar with the layout, I think I have it right but the spring has me a bit bamboozled, the piece with one spring loaded bearing in it has a conical end which I assume holds the spring, it is associated with the beam changes from fog lamp to main etc I think but not sure. I had to pull off the wires and take the wheel out completely as I simply couldn't access the switch to put these back in. Any advice greatly appreciated as always.

    Cheers

    Steven

    switch1.jpgswitch2.jpgswitch3.jpg

  14. #39
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    All good figured it out. The poor old girl hadn’t had any electricity flowing around her for nearly 2 months and after some R2D2 noises decided it was best to comply and behaved herself hence forth. Hope to be back on the road registered again next week.
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  15. #40
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    All back together but the height is staying stuck on high on the front after I set on high and drop to normal, goes to low fine. Back fine as didn’t play with that. Bled numerous times with steering working back and forth on full lock to get air out. I am wondering if I have the anti roll bars out of whack and if so what methods to use to set the heights? Help!
    I’ll just stick it on stands again and check linkages and the roll bar clamp, that must be the problem...
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 21st January 2019 at 03:47 PM.

  16. #41
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    had a quick look around the height corrector and discovered I've snapped the plastic link connector, have a spare in the wings. Must be because I didn't loosen off the clamp screws when I was doing the rack. So my question today is how do I reset the clamp position, do I do both? or just the one connecting to the plastic arm? Do I start off by disconnecting the drop links, loosen the clamp nut/ screw and then where from there? Ken, David any suggestions? I assume the clamp central to the bar is the auto height one which has alllowed the height to go in high and low but the plastic arm is linked to the manual cabin height adjustment rod and hence unless aligned ( and actually not broken) won't work obviously!

    Hilp Hilp!

    I've got it in high on stands at the moment and can get under to reach everything.

    Steven

  17. #42
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    while I'm freaking out thinking about solution would it make sense to loosen off clamp, replace the plastic rod connector then tighten and assume it will be close to original position? I don't want to snap this new plastic connector repeating what I've just done.

    ?

    I will have to get it on a hoist later and run it on normal to get exact adjustment I guess but need to figure this out on stands first.

    HILP!

  18. #43
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    If you need to loosen the clamp to connect the rod, then mark carefully where it is before allowing anything to move! If you can get clamp back where it is now, then your height adjustment should be pretty right.

    I couldn't have said off-hand whether height defaults to maximum or minimum, but it makes sense that without the manual lever, it will move one way or the other! Going to max height seems logical, as it's a lot easier to fix .

    Cheers

    Alec

  19. #44
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    Thanks Alec I am pretty sure I snapped the plastic rod when I rotated the anti roll bar down to get the lower arms out of the way, I think I remember hearing a clunk when I did this! So it makes sense to loosen off the sway bar at droplinks then rotate around with clamp not loosened to position where plastic arm can comfortably connect then take it from there.


    I haven't had a look yet but I assume the middle anti roll bar height link, independent of the height correct must go to the rear of the car so if thats grtting the right height it is working on the front bar to permit the height to go from low to high as it should.

    nope that other connecting rod on the bar goes to the sc mac computer sensor thing, for locking off the height when switched off. I think... Its fascinating stuff poking around it all. The plastic control arm is going to be fiddly to put on without the height corrector on the bench though.

    FIXED. Undid the droplinks, undid the roll br bolts on the bushes, got rid of the broken plastic rod, rotated the arm till I could fit the new plastic rod back on, put the links back on and tightened up bolts on bushes, all done on high level, took it off the stands and put in normal position, seemed to have done the trick. Now to replace the busted passenger side mirror! I found a good thread on french car forum in Uk by one of the guys to explain what to do step by step and avoid some headaches.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 23rd January 2019 at 04:30 PM.

  20. #45
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    Quick question do Xantias use the same rear suspension cylinder boot/gaiters as XMs or S1 C5's? got leaky leaky one and can't find one online.

  21. #46
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    It’s not the boot it’s the leak back tube to the Y union, the front one packed it several months ago, these rear ones are much harder to access, does anyone know if they are the same size as front one? I can trace it to the height corrector and I assume the right rear piston boot.

    It looks bigger than the front one, doesn't matter I'll figure it out myself. No one answers my questions
    : )
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 7th February 2019 at 10:49 PM.

  22. #47
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Steven, These Y connectors are a real reliability issue on the Xantia. I have had mine long enough to be on a second replacement round. They seem to be made of some sort of plastic that seems nice as flexible when new but it goes brittle over 10 years or so and when disturbed, it cracks and then leaks. Replacing one side at the back usually disturbs the other and it cracks and starts to leak as well. I have just had to do both sides of both my Xantias and I decided to use 5mm and 3mm nylon T pieces from the Champion Bar at the local car store and some 3mm and 4mm Mackay EFV hose to make some replacement joiners. The only downside of this approach is that there is a bit of extra length in the T pieces which has to be accommodated into the nylon tubes without them kinking. To install get yourself some 200mm needle nosed pliers so you can reach up through the holes in the subframe and grab the nylon pipe just behind the ripple in the pipe, reach up past the muffler with the other hand with T piece and slip it onto the snared pipe. Repeat with the other pipes. It is a cow of a job and it is best to work out as plan of fitting the most difficult to get to pipes first. Good Luck, Cheers, Ken
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  23. #48
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    Boot 527233 used on Xantia 1&2 from RP 6778 (31/5/95). Not other models. Boot 527204 used on Xantia 1 until RP 6778. Also used on BX, but only 4x4. The older part is a smaller diameter cylinder. Dropping the rear muffler with the car on a hoist makes replacing those two return connectors very much easier. You can still get the joiners, but as Ken suggests, making up your own works.
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  24. #49
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    Thankyou gentleman! I had a grapple around like you describe Ken and had some long pliers to see if I could push one of the tubes back in, it seemed to have come out past the flange. No luck it just started to bite into the old tube and I figured if I kept going it would create a new split. I'll need to get armed up with parts before I have another go, it is leaking fairly consistently and is only a matter of time before it turns into a gusher. Just managed to get it registered again after 2 months off the road. Annoyment.

  25. #50
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    with the EFV hose Ken did you have nylon pipes that were busted and used the EFV to join them? Or did you you use them as a sleeve over the T pieces and nylon pipes?

    ended up doing this job yesterday as when I put the car on hoist to tackle the front ride height adjustment the rear was disturbed by resting on hoist rails. So both sides decided to pack it in. I used 5 mm y plastic joiners, 4mm and 5 mm hose cut off to make sleeves between nylon pipes and y joiners. Not as difficult as it looked, fiddly but hardest bit was getting the broken ends off old joiners and pipes. I left the new y joiner out of the hole with extra rubber hoes on the left side WHEN it leaks again I can get to it easier. There is no length in the pipes to play with on that side, crap design really.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 17th February 2019 at 09:34 AM.

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