2003 c5 wagon project
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Thread: 2003 c5 wagon project

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    Tadpole
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    Default 2003 c5 wagon project

    2003 c5 wagon project-35628430_10155366821350988_8123700288403013632_n.jpg

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    Fellow Frogger! mattg's Avatar
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    Canít go Anywhere Scott


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    Fellow Frogger! mattg's Avatar
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    Doesnít look very projecty whatís it need?


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    Opps hit enter too soon. This our second old c5 we were that impressed by the last we got another as someone reversed into our last one. Its a 2003 2.0 hdi auto with 145,000 ks, the rear arm bearings are really stuffed so ive got new coming from poland and ive ordered some other bits and peices to try and bring her up to scratch, front ball joints, sway bar joints and im just about to do a tranny oil change as it slips when cold, Im hoping to get the the auto revived as they function so well. I paid a 1000 buks for her and am hoping to fix her up well enough to maybe get a few years out of her.
    any tips welcome

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    Your not matt garret? are you?

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    Can’t go Anywhere Scott


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    Yep


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    The rear swing arms are a bit of a pest, but not too bad once you have done one.

    !. Scrupulously follow the safety guideline re not getting under the car unless it is on stands
    2. Lift the car onto stands on the side being worked on, it is easier to do one side at a time as the wheel stays off the ground.
    3. Follow the rules to get the car depressurised.
    4. Remove all the extraneous stuff in the way, brake line, hydraulic pressure & return etc, along with the brake calliper & disk. Seal the pipes from leaks & dirt as best you can.
    5. Push the rear suspension ram closed & use a piece of tie wire to hold it closed. This cannot be done until you release the suspension pressure via the relief valve, (took me quite a while to realise this one!). You will bleed some hydraulic fluid out of the system so be prepared to catch it & minimise the mess. Once the ram is tied closed, it can be removed easily.
    6. Now you can undo the swing arm bolt & remove it to replace the bearing. Note the way the bits come out so you can put the new bits in the same way, especially the seals. Getting the bearings out will need some persuasion but they will move.
    7. Put in the new bearings, spacer, seals etc along with some grease. Take care to get everything around the right way & in the right order.
    8. Put the swing arm back, you may need some packers or a jack to hold the weight of the arm as the bolt is replaced, it is fairly heavy.
    9. Put the ram back & undo the wire, the torsion bar will hold it in place once it is connected.
    10. Put the rest of the stuff back, brake bits etc. & reconnect the various pipes, keeping everything as clean as possible.
    11. Be careful when replacing the wheel position sensor which controls the electronic stability system, the exact location is critical. If it is not right, the warning light comes on & you have no ABS. I did not realise how critical this was & had to take the car from Canberra to Citro in Sydney to fix it. If it happens to you, fiddle the sensor position until the problem goes away.
    12. Do up the hydraulic relief valve, put back the wheel, lower the car & pressurise it, check the fluid level & correct it as you will have lost some. Repeat for the other side.

    If you need to remove the pressure spheres, they may be tight, I eventually had to make a steel strap clamp to go over the diameter with a bolt to clamp it onto the sphere, this is on a previous post I did.

    Fixing such a C5 is well worth the effort, they are a good comfy economical car & properly serviced good for many years & km.

    Hope this helps, Regards

    agd123
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    Good project Scott a wagon would be very useful and worth saving.
    Lots of spare parts from Latvia and Poland abd have had no problem with the quality most seem to be OEM.
    As you know the auto box can be a pain. Slipping is not a good sign wil probably need a c rebuild soon or later especially if the slipping stops the vehicle moving..

    Keep us all updated on progress.



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    Thanks guys, il try and keep a bit of update. Last night i did actually do one tranny oil change with penrite full synthetic as it a substistute for original oil, and this morn int the cold it seemed slighty better, when its warm its perfect (and when i test drove it!) so if gets better for sure il do one more oil change and might throw in a tube of liquid moly stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Rohdich View Post
    Thanks guys, il try and keep a bit of update. Last night i did actually do one tranny oil change with penrite full synthetic as it a substistute for original oil, and this morn int the cold it seemed slighty better, when its warm its perfect (and when i test drove it!) so if gets better for sure il do one more oil change and might throw in a tube of liquid moly stuff.
    DO NOT throw a can of anything in !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Components of any automatic transmission rely on a predetermined amount of friction. Do a search of AL4 transmission problems, even on this site. It is not friction related things that cause the grief, it is the electronic control bits like solenoids, that fail and then the friction making/needing parts go ... dare I say cactus.
    Solenoids are available on Ebay. Renault also use this GERMAN SIEMENS made gearbox with equal grief. They call it DPO. The collective wisdom on this site blames failures on the publicised policy of no oil changes ....sealed for life ... a flawed policy. It is a clever gearbox with lock up torque converter on a couple of gears, so sort it electronically FIRST without resorting to additives.I suggest you do youtube and google search before you add anything other than clean new proper oil. No doubt others will reply....one member HERE refers to the SIEMENS gearbox as the AL$$$$
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    3 oil changes minimum. 100km drive between changes to circulate the old stuff in the torque converter. As above AL4 =AL $

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Rohdich View Post
    Thanks guys, il try and keep a bit of update. Last night i did actually do one tranny oil change with penrite full synthetic as it a substistute for original oil, and this morn int the cold it seemed slighty better, when its warm its perfect (and when i test drove it!) so if gets better for sure il do one more oil change and might throw in a tube of liquid moly stuff.
    Hi Scott
    That oil is good ! But the VERY IMPORTANT THING is to get the correct oil level when you refill it. There have been procedures written on here many times and many times people do not do it correctly. The oil level must be checked with the engine running or it will be two low and slip when cold most likely ???? sound familiar !
    Search for the procedure using the search function up the top. Or ask !!

    Jaahn

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    Yeah im going to have to bite the bullet and get one of these lexia setups , not looking foward too it as im not great with computers. Then I can see what tranny fault have come up. the old old was black/grey in colour, no burnt smell tho. could well have been the original oil! On my drive this morning it did behave a bit better I think. Im pretty keen to try additives as I have the spare car so I can do a motor and box swap if this auto is dead, but yes I will look into the electronic side of things. But considering the box still perfectly when warm gives me hope of getting more life of it yet, only has 140,000 ks on the clock after all?
    Im not feared of putting additives and things that shoulnt go into cars as ive ran a couple of diesel motors on used motor oil, I even put used hydraulic oil in the fuel tank our last c5. I can tell how that went if anyon is interested.

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    Glad to hear that oil is good , Yeah i read online and think ive done it right, I replaced roughly a bit more than came out and ran car , went though all the gears a couple of times , left in p , engine running then let excess drain out from that tube leveler thing. I think I done right?
    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi Scott
    That oil is good ! But the VERY IMPORTANT THING is to get the correct oil level when you refill it. There have been procedures written on here many times and many times people do not do it correctly. The oil level must be checked with the engine running or it will be two low and slip when cold most likely ???? sound familiar !
    Search for the procedure using the search function up the top. Or ask !!

    Jaahn

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Rohdich View Post
    Yeah im going to have to bite the bullet and get one of these lexia setups , not looking foward too it as im not great with computers. Then I can see what tranny fault have come up. the old old was black/grey in colour, no burnt smell tho. could well have been the original oil! On my drive this morning it did behave a bit better I think. Im pretty keen to try additives as I have the spare car so I can do a motor and box swap if this auto is dead, but yes I will look into the electronic side of things. But considering the box still perfectly when warm gives me hope of getting more life of it yet, only has 140,000 ks on the clock after all?
    Im not feared of putting additives and things that shoulnt go into cars as ive ran a couple of diesel motors on used motor oil, I even put used hydraulic oil in the fuel tank our last c5. I can tell how that went if anyon is interested.
    I suspect you are doing a deal with the devil. These modern Euro diesels are somewhat precious about the oil that is used in them and using the wrong engine oil will cause grief like clogged diesel particulate filters or worse. These engines must have low sulphur and phosphorus oil.( low SAPS ) To do otherwise risks poisoning the sensor equipped exhaust system which will shut down the electronic control system..... look elsewhere on this site for recent threads about pollution control messages in C5s. I know old Land Cruisers will run on used chip shop oil, but a C5 is a completely different "kettle of fish".....Fibs about diesel pollution and particulate production got the boss of Audi arrested this week. Modern Euro diesels are not to be mis fed......they will come back and bite you.
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    Fritz,

    I think Scott might have avoided the DPF issues as early C5s didn't have them. However, I'm sure the fuel filter would not like non-standard fuel much.

    Cheers, Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    Fritz,

    I think Scott might have avoided the DPF issues as early C5s didn't have them. However, I'm sure the fuel filter would not like non-standard fuel much.

    Cheers, Ken
    Sir Ken,
    I defer to your greater knowledge ... and authority.
    Either way he is playing with fire. As you know fuel filters alone can make life a little difficult.

    I suspect next thing Scott will be telling us about making his own biodiesel to shove in a chemically polluted C5, repairing the AL4 with chicken manure and using eggshells to retread the tyres, regassing his spheres with cow manure methane and retrofitting candles into the headlights.

    I don't get his line of argument.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fritzelhund View Post
    Sir Ken,
    I defer to your greater knowledge ... and authority.
    Either way he is playing with fire. As you know fuel filters alone can make life a little difficult.

    I suspect next thing Scott will be telling us about making his own biodiesel to shove in a chemically polluted C5, repairing the AL4 with chicken manure and using eggshells to retread the tyres, regassing his spheres with cow manure methane and retrofitting candles into the headlights.

    I don't get his line of argument.
    PS All that from someone who has bought a new height corrector sensor to fit a C5 and is too afraid to fit it at the risk of upsetting some electrickery. The more I age the more I realise "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" and to leave well enough alone, and to leave things as the manufacturer made it.

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    Some great ideas there, Thanks! Wouldnt biodiesel be better than used sump oil and hydraulic oil?
    I like to experiment as it can yield good results , however I wouldnt on a new car.
    Quote Originally Posted by fritzelhund View Post
    Sir Ken,
    I defer to your greater knowledge ... and authority.
    Either way he is playing with fire. As you know fuel filters alone can make life a little difficult.

    I suspect next thing Scott will be telling us about making his own biodiesel to shove in a chemically polluted C5, repairing the AL4 with chicken manure and using eggshells to retread the tyres, regassing his spheres with cow manure methane and retrofitting candles into the headlights.

    I don't get his line of argument.

  20. #20
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    2003 c5 wagon project-img_3299.jpg2003 c5 wagon project-img_3301.jpg
    Nice sway bar links have arrived, pic doesn't show just how the camber is because of those trail arm bearings, amazing how worn considering the relatively low ks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Rohdich View Post
    Yeah im going to have to bite the bullet and get one of these lexia setups , not looking foward too it as im not great with computers. Then I can see what tranny fault have come up.
    I have one I dont need anymore since I sold the Xsara - make me an offer

    I do remember getting the cracked Lexia software running on a windoze thing was a PITA...
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    Hey flamer!
    Scott paid $1000 for it.
    Why concern yourself if he experiments.
    He will and you might learn something.
    If he drives it for a 2 months until the transmission shits itself then it is still cheaper than depreciation on a new car.

    Such negative attitudes in this world.

    Nice pickup Scott.

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    The handbook supplied when the car was new specifically states 'Do not use bio fuel, it will cause serious engine damage' or something like that. Anyway why bother?.

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    Just to clear up this discusion I put used hydraulic oil in old c5 about a 6 months ago I threw about 20 litres in when the tank was empty so prob over 50% mix as I was curious to see how it would run as i ran used motor oil (up to 70%) went great in my previous td5 land rover for about 6 months with no loss of power and economy.
    2.0 hdi 8v did not go well with the hydraulic oil, it went great great for a day, no smoke but a bit of economy and power loss, then the next day it started to smoke badly until over the next few days it started to smoke very badly an got to the point where you could barley start the car in the morning and there would be a very thick cloud of black smoke and about 30% of the original power when you tried to drive it and lots more smoke off course. So safe to say Id thought Id completly stuffed the injection system! But no I hadnt, the car sat for a couple of months undrivable as I mentally prepared myself to scrap it
    It came good though, the night before I was about to head off to look at a replacment I decided to have one last crack at the old girl and with fresh diesel and injector cleaner just took it out and complety thrashed it at full revs as much as possible untill it was almost as good as new! and we have driving for about 4 months since and its now running better than when we first got it, I put moreys additive in every tank too.
    So go easy on me guys, Ive learned my lesson on that one but will not stop trying other things in the future, Ive learned from It and am happy for others to learn from my mistakes.
    BTW I put hydraulic oil in my td5 just to see if was the citroen or the fuel , and the td5 had similar symtoms , so basically sump oil as fuel ok, used hyraulic oil not ok, I would like to know exactly why but can only guess.

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    Thanks but I ordered one on ebay already

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