SM Brake Accumulator hydraulic pipe connections
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Thread: SM Brake Accumulator hydraulic pipe connections

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default SM Brake Accumulator hydraulic pipe connections

    Greetings all in the brains trust
    I have just had the brake accumulator overhauled but am struggling to connect the two small hydraulic pipes. (Large pipe is ok.) I think the accumulator is the same as the DS
    I may have stripped the threads of the pipe nuts and/ or accumulator itself
    The thread size seems to be very unusual- I make it M9 9mmx 1.25mm pitch?? Not something in the usual tap & die sets
    Could anyone please confirm the thread size or provide handy hints on reconnection.
    It should be a very simple job following instructions in the manual, but simply not working for me
    Many thanks

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger
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    Perhaps, undo the large one and try each of the small pipes in turn without the pipe seal to confirm you can seat the pipe properly and get the thread started. They can be very difficult to get starter if you have bent the pipes a little when dismantling. Sometimes, you have to go very gently and gradually slip the pipe end into the hole while slightly changing the angle of the pipe.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Warren,

    Yes it is very difficult to get them started if the pipe is even slightly bent off the 90 degree entry. Straighten/rebend them as best you can to get a 90 degree entry in both planes and make sure the nut slides on them easily. Maybe loosen the accumulator bracket to allow you to get a better approach angle. If you have another M9 x 1.25 screw or pipe end, try that to get some confidence the thread on the accumulator is OK. Never put a spanner onto one of these connections until you are sure it is correctly engaged. Wiggling the pipe around can help to find the position that allows the nut to be hand tightened into the socket.

    It is hard to cross thread the steel parts but easy to do on the aluminium unions.

    Cheers, Ken
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  4. #4
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I haven't changed SM accumulators before.... However... usually I find you need to **NOT** bolt them down prior to fitting the hydraulic lines. This allows you to move the accumulator around to get the lines in the right spot ( especially helpful when trying to fit DS front height correctors for example... Don't bolt them down until the lines are hooked up!).

    seeya,
    shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    Thanks to all for the helpful input. Finally resolved the issue with judicious use of 9mm x 1.25 tap and die to tidy up threads on pipe nuts and accumulator body. Something I not done before as I did not have these tools.

    I also learnt that it may be best to remove anything in the way of the accumulator pipework eg LHM canister, return pipes, splash guard etc in order to allow clear access

    Special thanks to Peter Raffels of Pleiades for great inside info, accompanied by many humorous anecdotes. A true gentleman

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    That is great news. It should be all nice and clean in that are now as well. If I went there on my SM I think I would be having to replace some rubber return pipes as well. Are your front brakes working well now?

    Cheers, Ken.

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Thanks Ken, and all

    I have been busy with other projects (ie Work) and have only just reassembled and bled the brakes

    I have found that the SM drives much better when front brakes are in order...

    Warning light no longer comes on when depressing brake pedal and braking seems better generally, if not totally up to the standard of my DS23 in terms of pedal pressure- still requires a firm push on the pedal

    As you suggested, the mission involved replacing return hoses, soldering up cracked pipe connection below tank, replace all LHM, general clean up

    One thing that surprised me was when bleeding front brakes, not much fluid came out of the front bleed nipples. Not sure if this is normal or an indication that the calipers may need servicing??? Any thoughts welcome

    Cheers

  8. #8
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dssm73 View Post
    Thanks Ken, and all

    I have been busy with other projects (ie Work) and have only just reassembled and bled the brakes

    I have found that the SM drives much better when front brakes are in order...

    Warning light no longer comes on when depressing brake pedal and braking seems better generally, if not totally up to the standard of my DS23 in terms of pedal pressure- still requires a firm push on the pedal

    As you suggested, the mission involved replacing return hoses, soldering up cracked pipe connection below tank, replace all LHM, general clean up

    One thing that surprised me was when bleeding front brakes, not much fluid came out of the front bleed nipples. Not sure if this is normal or an indication that the calipers may need servicing??? Any thoughts welcome

    Cheers
    Does it have the crazy american setup fitted that shuts the fluid flow off ( I wonder if that can be easily removed ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! citroenthusiast's Avatar
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    If it does have a USA valve, the brick on the pedal trick won't work to bleed the brakes. What I found works is to start the car, open the driver's door and stand in the open door while holding the bleed hose over the LHM tank so you can observe the flow. Don't open the bleeder screw too much or there will be too much flow for the safety valve not to shut off immediately. Remove your shoe so you can feel the rubber mushroom. Press the brake valve until you feel the valve pop back. Repeat with slightly less pressure. Eventually you will find the sweet spot where the fluid flows without the valve popping back and shutting off the flow.
    JohnW likes this.
    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 TAV Legere; 61DS19 LHM BVH (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM EFI (Megasquirt); 73SM 3.0 (other son's)

  10. #10
    Tadpole
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    Thank you John T and Shane
    That bleeding technique worked perfectly and brakes now very effective
    It is a USA delivered vehicle so presumably has the brake valve of which you speak- and which I had no idea about. Where is it and what does it do?? Cheers

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! citroenthusiast's Avatar
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    The safety switch (a/k/a/ leak finder) is part of the brake valve itself. It means you have the North America brake valve 5 413 915C instead of the EU brake valve 5 433 279. The leak finder is simply a flow valve that detects if there is a flow imbalance between the front and rear brake circuits and, if so, shuts of the high-flow circuit. It was included in all North America export models. Apparently, the nanny state wanted to prevent us stupid Americans from driving around with a massive brake leak (e.g. from a ruptured hose), running the car completely out of hydraulic fluid, then having a crash from no brakes.
    JohnW likes this.
    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 TAV Legere; 61DS19 LHM BVH (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM EFI (Megasquirt); 73SM 3.0 (other son's)

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