C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement
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Thread: C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Newcastle, NSW
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    74

    Default C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement

    Hi

    Iíve changed the thermostat on my C5 2006 2.0 HDi (DW10BTED4). It canít be a common problem because I couldnít find much about it on the web. The Haynes manual made it sound much easier than it was. But it pretty easy if you have the right gear.

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    The symptoms of a failed thermostat were what youíd expect. Very low water temperatures (almost off the bottom of the gauge) when the engine was under light load (highway travel on a cool night) but it would increase a bit on hills and around town it seemed fine. The oil temperature was also pretty low. That ruled out a stuffed temperature sender.

    I bought an aftermarket replacement off ebay for a reasonable price. The thermostat comes as a full housing with a temperature sensor included and a seal.

    The hoses are too short to really move the unit around much and the space is pretty limited. No surprises there.

    You will need one of those wonderful hose clamp pliers with a flexible cable which will cost you about as much as the thermostat housing.

    C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement-thermostat-annotated.jpg

    The first thing to do is drain the radiator and have some new coolant handy.
    Then remove the air-filter. Access is now much better.

    C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement-hoses-everywhere.jpg

    Remove the bracket bolted to the thermostat which holds the wiring and then move the wiring out of the way, access is now as good as it gets.

    C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement-wiggling-plate-into-place.jpg

    Note: All the hoses to the thermostat seem to have a different way of being attached, clamp, push on and variations.

    Remove the three front hoses - Nos. 1, 2 & 3.
    Remove the four studs from the thermostat (you may need to double nut them to get the stud to come). This improves access to the hose on the front left of the thermostat - No. 4. It also allows the thermostat to move forward to remove later.

    C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement-sneaky-hose.jpg

    Now at the back, disconnect the hose from the angled plastic pipe at the rear right of the thermostat Ė No. 5
    Unclip the thermometer connection Ė No. 6
    Use those great hose clamp pliers to move the clamp on the big hose at the back of the thermostat Ė No. 7.
    Remove the thermostat

    C5 2006 2.0 HDi Diesel Thermostat Replacement-removed.jpg

    Transfer the angle piece at the rear of the old thermostat to the new Ė No. 5.
    Put the new seal (provided with the thermostat) into its groove.
    Should I say refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure?

    When bleeding the coolant system I found it impossible with this efficient diesel motor to a high enough temperature for the cooling fans to kick in. But generally followed the bleeding procedure.

    The old thermostat looked ok, it was closed - not stuck open. But the water temperature now runs right in the middle of the gauge. Problem fixed.

    Cheers,

    Peter
    electroboy and birks like this.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    North Brisbane
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    Default

    Thanks Peter,

    That is a good one to store away for us with RHR engine C5s.

    I have just about given up trying to replace my fuel pressure regulator solenoid on the HDI pump as access to the two Torx screws holding it on is almost impossible and they are so so tight. Maybe it might be possible if the ECU and BSM and mounting frame is removed but the think the brake booster could still be in the way. Maybe it can wait until I need to replace the gearbox mount.

    Cheers, Ken

  3. #3
    Tadpole birks's Avatar
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    AU
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterJ View Post
    Hi

    Iíve changed the thermostat on my C5 2006 2.0 HDi (DW10BTED4). It canít be a common problem because I couldnít find much about it on the web. The Haynes manual made it sound much easier than it was. But it pretty easy if you have the right gear.

    The symptoms of a failed thermostat were what youíd expect. Very low water temperatures (almost off the bottom of the gauge) when the engine was under light load (highway travel on a cool night) but it would increase a bit on hills and around town it seemed fine. The oil temperature was also pretty low. That ruled out a stuffed temperature sender.

    I bought an aftermarket replacement off ebay for a reasonable price. The thermostat comes as a full housing with a temperature sensor included and a seal.

    The hoses are too short to really move the unit around much and the space is pretty limited. No surprises there.

    You will need one of those wonderful hose clamp pliers with a flexible cable which will cost you about as much as the thermostat housing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Thermostat annotated.jpg 
Views:	303 
Size:	99.7 KB 
ID:	105584

    The first thing to do is drain the radiator and have some new coolant handy.
    Then remove the air-filter. Access is now much better.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Hoses Everywhere.jpg 
Views:	584 
Size:	99.4 KB 
ID:	105586

    Remove the bracket bolted to the thermostat which holds the wiring and then move the wiring out of the way, access is now as good as it gets.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wiggling the plate into place.jpg 
Views:	419 
Size:	98.9 KB 
ID:	105585

    Note: All the hoses to the thermostat seem to have a different way of being attached, clamp, push on and variations.

    Remove the three front hoses - Nos. 1, 2 & 3.
    Remove the four studs from the thermostat (you may need to double nut them to get the stud to come). This improves access to the hose on the front left of the thermostat - No. 4. It also allows the thermostat to move forward to remove later.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sneaky Hose.jpg 
Views:	457 
Size:	98.5 KB 
ID:	105587

    Now at the back, disconnect the hose from the angled plastic pipe at the rear right of the thermostat Ė No. 5
    Unclip the thermometer connection Ė No. 6
    Use those great hose clamp pliers to move the clamp on the big hose at the back of the thermostat Ė No. 7.
    Remove the thermostat

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Removed.jpg 
Views:	857 
Size:	100.8 KB 
ID:	105588

    Transfer the angle piece at the rear of the old thermostat to the new Ė No. 5.
    Put the new seal (provided with the thermostat) into its groove.
    Should I say refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure?

    When bleeding the coolant system I found it impossible with this efficient diesel motor to a high enough temperature for the cooling fans to kick in. But generally followed the bleeding procedure.

    The old thermostat looked ok, it was closed - not stuck open. But the water temperature now runs right in the middle of the gauge. Problem fixed.

    Cheers,

    Peter
    Thank you Peter, super detailed instructions much appreciated.

    Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Thanks Peter, for some reason the phrase '"plumber's nightmare" comes to mind.

    Geoff
    Cheerio,

    Geoff (in Mirboo North)


    1994 405 SRDT white - (free to a good home, unreg. & needs injector pump re-fitting)
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