Xantia - what to know for the novice? - Page 2
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Thread: Xantia - what to know for the novice?

  1. #26
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Ah, I can answer the interior questions. It was swapped out to a series II as the previous owner found the seats more comfy than series 1.

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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowpugV2 View Post
    Ah, I can answer the interior questions. It was swapped out to a series II as the previous owner found the seats more comfy than series 1.
    Ah, I wondered as much.

    Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by leithant View Post
    Ah, I wondered as much.

    Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
    I wonder now if a series 2 would be worth looking for or just go with this one. It's a new bonnet away from being really good.

  4. #29
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    A bird in the hand......
    JohnW

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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    A bird in the hand......
    Ha, yes of course.

    In short the red car has good bones.

    Speedo must be fixed - I'm guessing dry joints in the instrument cluster somewhere.

    I don't know what the "k" engine light on the dash indicated but nothing seemed amiss.

    Blower fan for the AC needs sorting. And I guess a relay installed?

    The biggest annoying issue with the car is that the paint was reported as being perfect but the roof is starting to go and the dent where the Arial is attached is significantly sized and so close to the windscreen edge it's going to be tricky to pop out without further damage. And the bonnet is mangled and doesn't shut flush.

    Also, the only tiny thing I noticed was a film of lhm on the lower subframe behind the front passenger side wheel.

    Strut tops have been replaced but with the original type.

    Am I being too picky? Is this par for the course on a xantia?

  6. #31
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    There's a standard fix for the speedo - quite specific dry joints, and there must be a post here somewhere about it.

    As for the rest, well there might be better ones around, like the one in Brisbane last week. A wee bit of LHM around might only be the return line from the front strut, as they fail and are an easy fix (new hose, new clip). But none are new any more, so unless return lines have been done, they'll be needed sometime.

    We had an intermittent yellow engine light for years on our BX and never found a cause. Fault messages pointed to Oxygen sensor, replaced it and nothing changed. Car never stopped or ran badly.

    Good luck.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
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  7. #32
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    There is one other thing, the rear seats. Are they meant to be a 60-40 split fold or just fold as one? Or is a split fold seat available? Would be ideal as I can keep the child seat installed and fold down one half of the seat to slide the bike in or the surf board.

    The car I drive was a one piece seat back.

  8. #33
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    All Australian-delivered Xantias had a one piece rear seat back, split-fold only available o/s, so you'd have to find a private import to get a split-fold.
    Bruce H

    Now 99 Xantia SX x2; 96 Xantia SX; 78 GS Pallas; 76 GS Club Estate x2; 76 GS Club; 74 GS Club; 88 VW T3 Reimo
    Before: AX Gti; BX 19TRi Estate; CX 2200 Super & Pallas; CX2400 Pallas; CX 2400ie Prestige auto; DS3 DStyle; GSA Club; Xantia Image Estate; Xantia Exclusive; Xsara VTR R4; 1.4 Special Estate; Virage; R16TS

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  9. #34
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    Sorry to say I have decided against the Xantia. Not because of the Xantia itself - it is a good car. It was just the one I looked at just wasn't quite right for me. It might turn out that I've made a mistake and it was actually a great car but for now I'm giving it a miss.

    I think, as a few of you mentioned, what I actually need is a Xantia Break ( or wagon of some kind ). Or a Series II Activa.

    Crazy logic I know, but I've also committed to buy a cheap 306 XSi to get about in for a year or so while I search for the right car.

  10. #35
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    I'd love a break but none round these parts, I'd also like a later model diesel C5 wagon and they are going down in price/value, worth considering if you see one.

  11. #36
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    You should always walk away if it isn't for you. Hard sometimes, but gather the information and make a decision......

    Isn't there a break for sale somewhere? Rare cars though and many more C5s around, albeit super-complex electronically in comparison. Or am I showing my biases/age?

    Good luck with the hunt.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowpugV2 View Post
    Just got home from a long day... Drove the car. It's about the comfiest cruisiest car I've driven. The engine is the 8v and really torquey and smooth, gearbox great. Upsy downsy seems to work well.
    But... Speedo jumps to 80 and stays there. Ac blower didn't work today. Also engine light permanently on. Vendor said it's nothing, engine seemed fine.

    Also, bonnet is quite mangled and there's a large dent in the roof from the bonnet flipping back on it.

    Not deal breakers but I'd like hear what could be wrong with the speedo
    As we already said - AC blowers are a known problem - esp. Series I.

    If by engine light you mean STOP light, then this can be caused by hydraulic issues (eg low level), as well as by engine related issues.

    Bonnet gets mangled if a strut top fails - strut punches through the strut top, and tries to punch through the bonnet. Usually this just puts a big arch in that side of the bonnet, but I suppose it's possible that it could lead to bonnet coming loose and being flung back on roof, to really emphasise what a bad bit of design those strut tops were...

    Not surprised you walked away - the ad certainly doesn't seem to have offered full disclosure.

    Cheers

    Alec

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    You should always walk away if it isn't for you. Hard sometimes, but gather the information and make a decision......

    Isn't there a break for sale somewhere? Rare cars though and many more C5s around, albeit super-complex electronically in comparison. Or am I showing my biases/age?

    Good luck with the hunt.
    I was weirdly torn over the decision. Spent ages with vendor - he's clearly got LHM in his veins and his others cars made my eyes pop but gotta go with instinct.

    And you know what, the C5 would be a consideration. yes more complex electronically but vastly safer - something that factors highly now that I have tadpoles of my own!

  14. #39
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    One of many reasons we quit our Xantia at 20 years was safety. Not at the top of our list but they are a previous generation structure.

    If you have tadpoles, I'd think a 5-star structure would be a good investment.

    I suspect most C5s behave well electronically, and of course the problem cars tend to funnel in to this site! I'm not tempted personally, but they do drive very nicely.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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