Replacing front suspension dust cover - tips please
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Thread: Replacing front suspension dust cover - tips please

  1. #1
    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    Default Replacing front suspension dust cover - tips please

    Hello
    We're still chasing suspension leaks ahead of the Cit-In Dalby. So far...
    . Have removed front wing driver's side
    . Located leak from perished suspension dust boot
    . Have located the replacement part.
    Looks straight forward, unless you read the workshop manual. Tips/steps to replace would be welcome. TIA, Greta and Geoff

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Greta and Geoff...it would be useful to know which model you are doing the work on .... IF it is the DS in your avatar it is necessary to have absolutely no weight on the front axle...wheels dangling and no residual pressure .. car sunk and accumulator exhausted. It is necessary to get complete "droop" of the front suspension arms in order to allow the pushrod that connects the sphere's piston out of the "loaded" socket of the upper suspension arm. Once the pushrod can be released the installation of the new boot is pretty obvious. You will know that the suspension sphere and cylinder has no stored pressure as the entire cylinder will be loose. and you'll be able to rattle it with a bare hand. You'll notice there are two locking bolts in the suspension housing. these serve no other purpose than to stop the cylinder from turning and do not need to be severely tight.The cylinder loading is taken by the entire cylinder as it mates in the housing. Do not be distressed if those bolts are not tight. They are locating "grub' screws only.
    See if you can locate a reason for the compression boot failure. Handbrake cables on the right side of the car can contact the boot and cause exaggerated wear.
    No doubt others will add more clues.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Geoff and Greta,

    I have just done this job on the SM. I found it a bit of a pain getting the clip on the end of the shaft re-engaged around the articulation ball. Also you have to get the boot on so that the return pipe will fit at the right angle into its rubber connector - it has to in a fair way so there are no lumps in the rubber or it will leak (don't ask me how I know this) - some rubber grease helped here. You might also find that the rubber ring protectors that go under the ligarex are pretty tired and also need replacing.

    Wishing you safe travels on the way up to Cit-in. Not long now.

    Cheers, Ken

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    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    hi frutzelhund, thanks very much for your response. As we are investigating the leak on one side only, only jacked up one side. Is it important for both sides to be jacked up equally at the front? PS: we haven't released the pressure in the system (yet). g&g


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    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    hi ken w, thanks for responding. are the replacement clips readily available? Can you re-use the ligarex? g&g


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    Both front wheels must be dangling and load free otherwise the roll bar will not allow full droop.
    Ken mentioned the ball. The pushrod between the sphere and its sliding cylinder rests on a marble sized ball. It is the ball that takes all the up and down stroking loads. You may not have seen it yet as it is within the concertina boot...and therefore beautifully clean and lubricated, unlike its equivalent on the back " struts" where the ball resides in a little socket all on its own...and is frequently the cause of a loud crack when first pressurised after the car sinks overnight.
    Ligarex clips can be reused. All you need to do is "unwind" them and bend a new end to fit in the eye...assuming there is enough length left as somebody else may have been a tight wad some time in the past decades.
    As Ken mentioned the location of the concertina boot can be a little bit awkward. The design on the DS boot means that the boot can be quite oil filled. They function to return leakage back to the reservoir ...though without any real pressure .. they are just drip catchers. Later designs, like a GS have the concertina that is mainly a dirt excluder and mainly air filled, as the oil drips are scooted off closer to the base of the cylinder.
    It is important to line up the exit pipe of the boot with the yellowish nylon return tube which is quite stiff. Misalignment will cause the softer rubber spout to flex and crack early... not difficult and obvious once you can eyeball it.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I trust at this point you have removed the mudguard and the spash panel to allow full access. The many electrical connectors were colour coded to allow easy recognition and reassembly but may now be discoloured...eg cream and white look grey, so label them.
    The metal splash tray will no doubt be distorted and bent and the inside full of old caked grease along the bottom.
    While you have removed all the "tinware" it would be a good time to get out the grease gun. The roll bar locates in nylon bushes and would appreciate some new grease ( especailly in full droop as the grease will be spread when the car is returned to road height ) There will be a grease nipple on top of the roll bar's upper housing, and one on each of the ball and socket links that connect the upper suspension arm to the roll bar. The big rubber bungs in the splash tray don't allow a good angle for the grease gun so it is better done when exposed.
    If you are tackling the left side you will be able to see the height corrector. A good clean up around that might be wise as depending on use that area can get pretty grubby with road debris/mud/dead possums/leaves etc.

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    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    thanks fritzhund, we'll work on this tomorrow and see what happens. g&g


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  9. #9
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    What Fritz said up there ^^^
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    Dear All, Culprit rubber dust boot located and replaced. Everything went back together and all seems good (today). Not without grief but gonna go with it. Hope to see some of you in Dalby g&g
    Replacing front suspension dust cover - tips please-img_1521709727.222945.jpg


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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Yep, that is how they fail. Bottom outside of boot. Cheers, Ken.

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    Member GretaDeesse's Avatar
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    Default Replacing front suspension dust cover - tips please

    Hello All
    WTB: Looking to purchase 2 new front suspension rubber boots and 4 Michelin tyres for rego. Searched on-line: too hard. Anyone help find supplier/s. Local preferred. TIA...g&g


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