New C4 Picasso Owner. advice needed
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 33
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: New C4 Picasso Owner. advice needed

  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default New C4 Picasso Owner. advice needed

    Hi everyone.

    Bought my first Citroen today. Its a 2008 2.0 diesel with 114k on the clock.

    While its not super clean its not too bad a shape either considering its 10yrsold. It has full service history as well.

    Bit of a nail bitting process but so far my wife and I are happy. It really fits what we were looking for, a 7 seater with good fuel economy.
    We had a diesel Toyota Lucida a few years back and loved the diesel in that car, as well as the space. Before buying this car we looked at some newer Estimas, which had a very nice quality feel, but they all had thirsty petrols.
    We are looking to change our lifestyle from the current v8 jeep we have which leaves us too scared to go anywhere with the fuel cost.

    Noticed a couple of things today after driving home that did not show on the test drive.

    Advertisement


    The tyre pressure sensor in the rear left was saying pressure was low yet when I pumped up/checked the tyres, it was 35psi? Any thoughts on this.

    The right seat in the middle row was flashing a seat belt warning yet nobody was sitting there.

    Are these common problems and is there an easy fix?

    Love doing things myself so happy to learn.

    Also is there a good source where I can pick up a service manual?
    danielsydney likes this.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! fnqvmuch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    port douglas
    Posts
    718

    Default

    the seatbelt lights shouldn't stay on long - try opening driver's door - might stop them if they alarm or otherwise bother. mine doesn't have tyre sensor but i think I've seen mention here of them so try search; also try all my posts since about this time last year for the benefit of my mistakes ... you have at least owned a diesel before.
    welcome - and we like photos too
    steven
    grandC4picasso RHB, [email protected] , EGS6Sp, B58, MY 2012-2013 (?)

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,787

    Default

    The tyre pressure sensors are radio transmitters under the valves. The computer locates which is which by their built-in digital addresses. Perhaps your car had a wheel/tyre change by someone who didn't think about it. In time the car may work out what is really happening. At worst it can be reset using the diagnostic computer.

    A 2.0 HDI vehicle from 2008 will have the DW20BTED4 engine, coded RHR. The code letters are found as part of the VIN at position 6. Getting official repair data requires you to join service.citroen as a repairer. Everything is there but many documents will require payment. Haynes has an after-market manual in English easily obtained for a modest price. Revue Technique Auto has a better one, online, but it is in French.

    Diesel fuel in Australia is regulated by law. Despite the advertising, all the brands you have seen comply with the same standard. In freezing locations only, eg the NSW highlands, the brew varies in winter.

    Much more important is oil grade. These engines must use a very low ash C2 oil or real trouble will come as ash clogs up the engine and particle filter. Total is recommended, but there are a couple of suitable other makes. On the same topic, the particle filter needs periodic regenerating (ie, burnt out). The easiest way to get this done is do a run on o motorway or other road where you can keep an uninterrupted moderate to high speed. The car can do it automatically in these conditions by altering fuelling etc. It can be done spectacularly in a workshop by forcing the computer - never when parked over vegetation.

  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Cool thanks for the feedback fnqvmuch and seasink. Just a couple of follow on questions

    What types of oils are out there apart from the total brand? I havent started hunting for any yet and cant say ive seen any in shops.

    What is everyone using for radiator fluid? Im thinking of doing a flush. The resevoir was a bit low when we bought it. I topped it up a little with distilled water however for piece of mind might change it all.

    Something else I noticed in the maintenance guide was to top up the 'EOLYS 176' @ 120,000km. Can anyone elaborate on this as its news to me.

    Im finding this quite interesting if not a little overwhelming. Im sure it will become second nature once I get my head around it.

    Are most of you here using Australian dealers to source your consumables or is anyone using uk sites to locate cheaper deals? I live in Perth by the way if anyone is wondering.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2,237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simmrr View Post
    Cool thanks for the feedback fnqvmuch and seasink. Just a couple of follow on questions
    What types of oils are out there apart from the total brand? I havent started hunting for any yet and cant say ive seen any in shops.
    What is everyone using for radiator fluid? Im thinking of doing a flush. The resevoir was a bit low when we bought it. I topped it up a little with distilled water however for piece of mind might change it all.
    Something else I noticed in the maintenance guide was to top up the 'EOLYS 176' @ 120,000km. Can anyone elaborate on this as its news to me.
    Im finding this quite interesting if not a little overwhelming. Im sure it will become second nature once I get my head around it.
    Are most of you here using Australian dealers to source your consumables or is anyone using uk sites to locate cheaper deals? I live in Perth by the way if anyone is wondering.
    Hi simmrr
    Here are my thoughts.
    Oil ! All oil companies supply a suitable type of oil for allmost any vehicle. Look at their web sites or just study the back of the bottles on the shelf. All newer diesels need a 'special' oil so not so special any more. Now is the time to move to an easily available type from your local shop IMHO.

    Radiator fluid ! same comments apply. Do a flush and put in what you deem suitable locally.

    EOLYS 176. Google it ! but in short it is a fluid that is injected into the exhaust in small quantities to help the regeneration of the particle filter. Commonly available now.

    I have sourced parts from local suppliers and from UK when I had a Cit in times past. People may be more specific about your model. There are forum supporters who advertise here, ask them what they sell for your model ! Look under 'OUR SPONSERS'
    Jaahn

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,787

    Default

    If you have seen an ashed engine you won't put in any oil. The ash content is critical.

    Total's C2 grade is recommended by the maker, and though not often in shops, in Perth is easy to get from the local distributor 3 bottles in a carton. There was a thread about that in AF. It wasn't expensive either.

    Most oil companies do have a C2 grade, eg Magnatec Professional C2; but these can be harder to find retail than Total, as they are made for the trade. One make easily found is Penrite Enviro+ DL-1

    Consumables from dealers are $$$. There are firms (mostly in Melbourne and Sydney) who will courier filters, pads etc to you, of OEM quality, for a considerable saving.
    harrisson_citroen likes this.

  7. #7
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Australia
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi simmrr
    EOLYS 176. Google it ! but in short it is a fluid that is injected into the exhaust in small quantities to help the regeneration of the particle filter. Commonly available now.
    Just a follow up on this.

    Eolys is mixed with your fuel automatically when you fill up. The fluid helps increase the temperatures in the DPF to aid in burning more diesel particles and maintaining a cleaner DPF.

    It should not be confused with urea type fluids (ADBLUE) which are as you have stated are injected into the exhaust to reduce nitrogen levels being released to the atmosphere.

    Regards,
    Curtis.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
    Ken W and harrisson_citroen like this.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,755

    Default

    The car will tell you when the Eolys gets low. If the previous owner has only filled up to full when the tank is nearly empty, you might get to over 200,000 km before the refill Eolys message comes up. More importantly, do you know if the timing belt has been changed yet? On the RHR engine the timing belt change is maximum specified for 190,000 km or 9 years whichever comes first. Your car is 10 years old so it should have been changed.

    Cheers, Ken

  9. #9
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for replying people.
    Yes the timing belt was changed out in the last service so good to go.
    Since first buying I have put about 10000km on the car.

    One thing that is happening now is shuddering/surging at about 1800 up to 2000rpm. Really annoying.

    So only just got around to getting an oil filter and waiting on a phone call tomorrow from a total oil rep to get the correct oil.

    Worrying that the official spare parts rep. in Perth stated 'just grab any 5w-30'!

    Im also worried that the last service, before I owned it, the wrong oil was put in and the car has got choked up.

    Ordered an egr blanking plate and will give that a go.

    Whats the collective reckon?

    Is there any trustworthy service agents in Perth?

    By the way opening the drivers door worked for the seatbelt warning. Only happened a couple of times and havent had that problem since. Also not phased by the tyre alarm but it still makes me look every time it comes on damn it.
    Last edited by simmrr; 8th August 2018 at 09:09 PM.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    You happen to live in the easiest place to source Total brand oils in Australia.
    Ring Golden West Lubricants ( phone number on corresponding website) and speak to Ian Briant. Answers emails and very good to deal with.
    Nostalgia.....aahh It's not what it used to be

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,787

    Default

    Anyone who says to just grab any oil isn't fit to be in his job. Low ash C2 oil is used for a reason. Ash in the particle filter or the EGR or the engine generally is not a good thing and can be very expensive. dayofthejackal's advice is spot on. It will take more than one oil change to do major clogging though.

    The EGR is there for a reason and the computer is designed to use it.

    For that surge, can you find someone with a Diagbox? If not, any generic code reader?

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    tweed heads
    Posts
    1,364

    Default

    SHUDDERING COULD BE ENGINE MOUNTS ,IS IT SURGING IN ALL GEARS ,READ UP ON OIL CHANGE FOR AUTO ,JUST DID THIS ON MY SONS CAR ,IT WAS SURGING IN THE LOWER GEARS ,AND ALSO DOING ROUGH CHANGES INTO 3RD, PARTICULARLY WHEN HOT ,3 CHANGES OF 3.5 LITERS MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE ,SEE YOUR TOTAL GUY ABOUT THE CORRECT OIL ,THERE ARE MULTIPLE POSTS ON USE OF OTHER BRANDS WITH SUCCESS ,MY ELDEST SON HAS JUST SOLD A HIGH Ks PICASSO , AND SECOND SON JUST BAUGHT THIS LOWER K CAR IN SYDNEY ,HAVING THE BELT DONE IS A BIG BONUS ,HE HAD TO GET HIS DONE LOCALLY ,WITH AN ENGINE MOUNT AND SOME HOSES ENDED UP PAYING $1800 ,ALTHOUGH THE TRANS OIL IS SUPPOSED TO LAST FOR THE LIFE OF THE VEHICLE ,I WOULD RECOMMEND CHANGING IT ,ITS NOT DIFFICULT JUST FIDDLY ,DO SOME READING ,PUGS

  13. #13
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks again.
    GWL is who I called today. Just have to get back with the VIN tomorrow. They were very easy to talk to.

    Not sure about anyone with a diagbox? Its not putting out any errors. It does happen with all gears. Especially going up a slight incline and the revs are just at 2000rpm.

    I will check the mounts tomorrow.

    On the gearbox, I thought the 6 speed was an intelligent manual box not an auto. Am I right?

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! fnqvmuch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    port douglas
    Posts
    718

    Default

    AFAIK both boxes are six-speed, having RNAM means Ďmanualí
    grandC4picasso RHB, [email protected] , EGS6Sp, B58, MY 2012-2013 (?)

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,873

    Default

    2008 means it will be the AM6 automatic, not the later EGS system. Change the gearbox oil if you do not know when it was last changed. You only get 1/3rd out each time. Penrite synthetic is fine.

  16. #16
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    So picked up the right oil today. Couldnt be happier from the service from GWL. Easy to deal with, good prices and call backs on info. Awesome.

    See how it goes with an oil change but the surging seems like the engine gets a shot of fuel then dies, gets a shot and dies, rinse and repeat. Put the foot down theres no problem but its when cruising along at a stable speed at mentioned revs that it happens. Perhaps turbo spooling intermittently? EGR opening?

    Havent had a look at the transmission yet but why only a 1/3 each time?

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,873

    Default

    ... because the torque converter and internal oilways/pistons etc. do not drain back to the pan. So, you can only remove about 1/3rd of the capacity each change unless you perform a flush. If it's old and worn, a flush may remove suspended debris that makes a marginal gearbox keep on working, so approach that idea with a little caution.

    If it surges at light throttle just enough to rock your head gently back and forth and you have eliminated all other faults, that is where an EGR plate with an 8mm hole - not larger or smaller - can give a result. However, that should not be seen as a magic fix for other faults, but it is a last resort fix for a gentle and annoying surging issue. It's not a substitute for replacing a bad EGR (i.e. typically 1618GZ for DW10B engines - RHR in VIN)
    Last edited by David S; 9th August 2018 at 03:20 PM.

  18. #18
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Cool thanks David for the advice. Your spot on with the symptoms. I was already starting to wonder if there is a problem with the egr. Hence ordering the blanking plate. I think I got a solid plate however. Shouldnt be a problem putting one in with the bench drill.
    Have you or do you know of anyone replacing their EGR with an ebay item or best to stay oem?

  19. #19
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    EGR is confirmed as the gremlin. Recieved my blanking plate today and installed it. Fixed the surging issue straight away. So happy to get rid of the pulsing. Although now I'm more aware of other sounds.

    A question. Why use the 8mm hole in the blanking plate?

    There is other stories too. Filled the car accidently with petrol the other day. Went to go to the beach and made it about 5km before it died. Then realised my mistake. Love the fact that the car has the hand pump next to the fuel filter. Used it to drain the tank. Replaced the fuel in the filter bowl and topped up the tank. Started after a little bit of coughing and smoke and is totally good since. Stoked and impressed with the engine!

    The other thing was I travelled to Albany a few months back. Passing a truck heading the other way blew off the plastic cover that runs alongside the front window. A couple of the plastic studs had deteriorated and just took the wind buffeting from the truck to dislodge it. Also lost one of the black plastic inserts on the front grill too. I stopped and got the window cover but the other piece I have no idea where it fell off. Never had a car where so many bits have dissapeared or fallen off on one trip.

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,787

    Default

    That happens with C5 windscreen trims too. My local panel beater has seen several, and glues them down as well as using the factory clips. I lost one to hail. It loosened one corner and keeping going on the motorway finished the job.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    tweed heads
    Posts
    1,364

    Default

    the plastic trim across the rear door that holds the door opening switch ,dousnt like to be used as a pull handle ,my son ended up installing a cabinet handle from bunnings but it involved removing the inner lining which i believe was a mission ,pugs

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,873

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simmrr View Post
    ... A question. Why use the 8mm hole in the blanking plate? ...
    You still want some EGR function (you obviously get none if fully blanked off), but making the hole larger than 8mm doesn't have the damping effect needed to stop the surging. I've tried larger holes and experience shows 8mm is in fact the largest you want to address this issue.

  23. #23
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Ive got a message on the dash last week saying that the particle filter fluid is at a low level.

    1. Can anyone tell me if the fluid can be replaced or is it in a bag that needs changing.
    2. Can anyone point out where it is located on the car and is it easy to change?

  24. #24
    UFO
    UFO is offline
    CitroŽn Tragic UFO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Gerringong, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    9,404

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simmrr View Post
    Ive got a message on the dash last week saying that the particle filter fluid is at a low level.

    1. Can anyone tell me if the fluid can be replaced or is it in a bag that needs changing.
    2. Can anyone point out where it is located on the car and is it easy to change?
    You have a couple of thousand km until you must replace it, or you will do irreparable damage to the catalytic convertor. Depending on the model it will be a bag that you swap over or a kit with a set of hoses that you attach to a tank and drain the contents of the kit into the additive (EOLYS) tank.

    Contact your local parts supplier or one of the Aussie third party suppliers with your vehicles VIN at hand. Most these days will insist you provide the VIN to ensure they are providing the correct part.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,787

    Default

    There's a potentially useful thread here for the C5 that has the same engine - Lexia and EOLYS?
    Give EAI a call. You'll need Diagbox to reset the computer when the tank is full.

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •