CX road trip : What to take ?
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    Default CX road trip : What to take ?

    CX experts out there what should I take on my road trip ?
    Not my CX ( Familiale) my wife says but I was thinking in terms of spares. So far I have a spare cam sensor on my list.
    Any suggestions ?

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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Flat bed truck??
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    What model and what condition? If the condition is poor, I wouldn't do it even with a trailer load of spares.

    For me, the absolute minimum would be one of every belt and the right spanners to change them... How are the radiator hoses? You may get a reply from Ross in Denmark who knows Mundrabilla better than any of us due to a hydraulic pump belt failure.

    I have a spares box for my Renault R8 for long trips and it includes a fuel pump, water pump, radiator hoses, hose clamps, a spare distributor, carby gasket etc kit, plugs, assorted nuts and bolts, and so forth. But long trips from Perth aren't quite the same as the east coast....

    Be interesting to see the responses!
    JohnW

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    What model and what condition? If the condition is poor, I wouldn't do it even with a trailer load of spares.

    For me, the absolute minimum would be one of every belt and the right spanners to change them... How are the radiator hoses? You may get a reply from Ross in Denmark who knows Mundrabilla better than any of us due to a hydraulic pump belt failure.

    I have a spares box for my Renault R8 for long trips and it includes a fuel pump, water pump, radiator hoses, hose clamps, a spare distributor, carby gasket etc kit, plugs, assorted nuts and bolts, and so forth. But long trips from Perth aren't quite the same as the east coast....

    Be interesting to see the responses!
    if the car is in good condition..... Just a flywheel sensor and a mutli-meter...

    seeya
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    1000+ Posts garyk's Avatar
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    Why has no-one suggested taking another car along?? Always good to have a backup....
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    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    LHM in case it springs a leak; throttle cable (cable has broken on me twice, a 1.5mm bike cable with a screw-on nipple for the pedal end will suffice); radiator fan relay; big blue relay if its injected; something to do up the jubilee clips on the intercooler and air hoses if itís a T2; 2 spare coils and a flywheel sensor if itís a 2500 engine. Or trade it in get a DS and just carry some LHM
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    Cheers, Marc.

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    Plenty of cash for a flat tray truck to get home!-------------Three hours stuck on the Eastern Freeway from a bad load of fuel!
    Cheers Gerry

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    For me it comes down to loose bolts and aged rubber ........... choose mild temperature season, avoiding stresses from high speeds.



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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    One aged rubber piece that let go on mine is the flexible drive discs for the HP pump shaft. If that lets go you will need an spare pump drive shaft ( complete) as well.
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    Cheers Gerry

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    One aged rubber piece that let go on mine is the flexible drive discs for the HP pump shaft. If that lets go you will need a spare pump drive shaft ( complete) as well.
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    Cheers Gerry

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    I took my CX Prestige on two trips to Canberra, via Sydney on the way down (from Brisbane), and via the Newell on the way home. Before I went, I considered the things I've fixed in the time I've had it (it was pretty reliable in the time it was my daily driver). I took a bit of coolant and a bit of oil, metric spanners and sockets, feeler gauges (mine has points), a few screwdrivers, a bit of LHM.....not a lot else really. Check rubber return lines for perishing and cracks, and replace where necessary, and (as previously mentioned) check radiator hoses.......basically check any rubber hose, belt, or pipe for signs of deterioration.
    Over both trips, I had one issue in Sydney which turned out to be the wire for the a/c compressor shorting on a bracket, and that was it.
    For my money, nothing beats taking the time to give the car a good thorough going over about a week before you leave. Crawl under and over it with a strong torch and reassure yourself that everything looks as it should. It'll give you a bit more confidence that you'll make it with minimal chance of unexpected stoppages along the way and it might just help reduce the size of the spare parts and tool inventory. It'll also reduce the chance of having to deal with a stressed spouse should anything go wrong, lol .
    All the best on your trip.....enjoy the magificent CX in all it's glory on the open road!
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garyk View Post
    Why has no-one suggested taking another car along?? Always good to have a backup....
    All jokes aside, that is a very good idea!
    JohnW

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    MasterCard. Don't leave home without it.

    I would obtain spare fanbelts and radiator hoses and take them with you on a long trip, but otherwise have them handy because old rubber dies. They are typically straightforward to replace whether on a trip or at home.

    Tough Tape is handy if you don't have a spare radiator hose and for a ruptured return line. ATM (automatic transmission fluid) can be used instead of LHM if you have a massive leak and have exhausted your LHM supplies.

    The MasterCard covers the cost of a flatbed. Train or airfares home. Temporary accommodation whilst the local mechanic tries to fix the car. Purchase of another vehicle if you have reached bridge (or CX) too far.

    If you are Irish, the problem will not be solved by whatever spares you have brought.

    John
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    I have purchased a metre of the two common sizes of return leakage rubber hose line and it stays handy in the boot at all times. If a piece of return hose cracks( i.e. the steering return octopus or the brake valve leakage return lines ) it is easy to cobble up a repair using washer T pieces or plastic joiners.
    BTW I dispensed with the central union of the steering octopus by making what looks like a control line aero-model fuel tank ---- only with five 1/8 copper tubes coming out of it, instead of the three that would be in a model plane fuel tank! Really works a treat and if a hose fails it is easily and cheaply replaced!
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    Cheers Gerry

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Good NRMA card.

    This can cover lots of the Mastercard options mentioned above and also means someone else can bring the tools if required.

    Plus if you have lots of old cars, you only need one membership for the driver.

    Just thought of another one. A mobile phone with good coverage and a healthy amount of data so you can get onto Aussiefrogs to find out who is nearby and might be able to help with that left field problem.

    Cheers, Ken
    Last edited by Ken W; 2nd February 2018 at 11:14 PM.
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    That is a bit better than RACV. It is necessary to have a membership for each car AFAIK.
    Cheers Gerry

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    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Gerry, check out RACV's top level of membership. It covers any vehicle as long as you are with it, plus the nominated vehicle whether you are with it or not.

    Roger

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    Fellow Frogger! rmac's Avatar
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    Having made two return trips in three CX's in recent years the only problems I struck were related to drive belts. If the car is used regularly and is OK for daily drives then a long trip is only a sring of single days together. Also been foolish enpough to buy a CX sight unseen in England, drove to Eire and around before heading to northern Sweden for Raid Arctique. There I had the support of two roadside patrolmen with supplies for CXs who accompanied us to Paris,
    The major issue was a 16 hour day travelling the length of Sweden to Kiruna - water pump bearing started to leak. None of the Raid Arctique water pump spares fitted but the only Citroen enthusiast in Kiruna had one. :-)
    You only live once!
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Kiruna!! Good grief. I could have lent you a brand new shaft and bearing that I found a couple of weeks ago. I reckon if I took the CX 'over east', I'd put my old but serviceable water pump in the boot.

    The only return line problems I've ever had have been at joints - at the point of flexure. The last one was interesting, as the new one was much more robust exactly where the old one failed. I have a set of new ones in a metal box in the boot but a length of line and joiners does make sense.
    JohnW

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    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    I have purchased a metre of the two common sizes of return leakage rubber hose line and it stays handy in the boot at all times. If a piece of return hose cracks( i.e. the steering return octopus or the brake valve leakage return lines ) it is easy to cobble up a repair using washer T pieces or plastic joiners.
    BTW I dispensed with the central union of the steering octopus by making what looks like a control line aero-model fuel tank ---- only with five 1/8 copper tubes coming out of it, instead of the three that would be in a model plane fuel tank! Really works a treat and if a hose fails it is easily and cheaply replaced!
    Could we have a sketch please? That sounds like a really good idea.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Make a block of wood 1/2" x1 1/4". Wrap a sheet of tin around this shape (Aero model supplies). Make two end plates about 1/8" the larger than the end of the wood block. Roll the overlap and solder Then turn the outer 1/8"in to form a flange trim the corners at an angle to allow each side flange to fold in without distortion. Push the end plates in flange first and solder.
    Cut two 1/8 brass tubes to 3 1/2" and one 1/8" brass tube to 1 3/4".
    Drill a 1/8' hole in the top left and top right of the tin box at both ends. The longer brass tubes will push right through!
    On the centre of each 3 1/2" tube grind or file a section away so that there is a hole in the side of the tube. About half of the tube diameter should remain at this point. This allows the LHM to enter the tin box, whilst providing some rigidity when the tubes are in place. Solder these tubes in place so that equal amounts protrude from each end.
    Now drill one, 1/8th hole in the side (one side only!) of the box on the lower edge. You do not want to drill through the two upper tubes. Insert and solder the 1 3/4" and your done except for testing that it does not leak. Cut preferably new 3mm ID nitrile tubing to match the lengths of the old Octopus and install!
    As the Meerkat says -------" Simples"!
    Cheers Gerry

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Make a block of wood 1/2" x1 1/4". Wrap a sheet of tin around this shape (Aero model supplies). Roll the overlap and solder.
    Tin can style!
    Make two end plates about 1/8" larger than the end of the wood block. Then turn the outer 1/8"in to form a flange, trim the corners at an angle to allow each side flange to fold in without distortion. Push the end plates in flange first and solder.
    Cut two 1/8 brass tubes to 3 1/2" and one 1/8" brass tube to 1 3/4".
    Drill a 1/8' hole in the top left and top right of the tin box at both ends. The longer brass tubes will push right through!
    On the centre of each 3 1/2" tube grind or file a section away so that there is a hole in the side of the tube. About half of the tube diameter should remain at this point. This allows the LHM to enter the tin box, whilst providing some rigidity when the tubes are in place. Solder these tubes in place so that equal amounts protrude from each end.
    Now drill one, 1/8th hole in the side (one side only!) of the box on the lower edge. You do not want to drill through the two upper tubes. Insert and solder the 1 3/4" and your done except for testing that it does not leak. Cut preferably new 3mm ID nitrile tubing to match the lengths of the old Octopus and install!
    As the Meerkat says -------" Simples"!
    Cheers Gerry

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Make a block of wood 1/2" x1 1/4". Wrap a sheet of tin around this shape (Aero model supplies).
    Roll the overlap and solder.
    Tin can style!
    Make two end plates about 1/8" larger than the end of the wood block. Then turn the ou
    ter 1/8"in to form a flange, trim the corners at an angle to allow each side flange to fold in without distortion. Push the end plates in flange first and solder.

    Cut two 1/8 brass tubes to 3 1/2" and one 1/8" brass tube to 1 3/4".

    Drill a 1/8' hole in the top left and top right of the tin box at both ends. The longer brass tubes will push right through!

    On the centre of each 3 1/2" tube grind or file a section away so that there is a hole in the side of the tube. About half of the tube diameter should remain at this point. This allows the LHM to enter the tin box, whilst providing some rigidity when the tubes are in place. Solder these tubes in place so that equal amounts protrude from each end.

    Now drill one, 1/8th hole in the side (one side only!) of the box on the lower edge. You do not want to drill through the two upper tubes. Insert and solder the 1 3/4" and your done except for testing that it does not leak. Cut preferably new 3mm ID nitrile tubing to match the lengths of the old Octopus and install!

    As Alexander the Meerkat says -------" Simples"!
    JohnW likes this.
    Cheers Gerry

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmac View Post
    Having made two return trips in three CX's in recent years the only problems I struck were related to drive belts. If the car is used regularly and is OK for daily drives then a long trip is only a sring of single days together. Also been foolish enpough to buy a CX sight unseen in England, drove to Eire and around before heading to northern Sweden for Raid Arctique. There I had the support of two roadside patrolmen with supplies for CXs who accompanied us to Paris,
    The major issue was a 16 hour day travelling the length of Sweden to Kiruna - water pump bearing started to leak. None of the Raid Arctique water pump spares fitted but the only Citroen enthusiast in Kiruna had one. :-)
    You only live once!
    I agree. Temperature and time are the critical factors.


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  25. #25
    JBN
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    Remember, with a CX, once the water-pump bearing goes, it leaks onto the alternator, so factor in a replacement alternator.

    Slow loss of coolant is an easy fix. Complete loss of charging resulting with a flat battery and needing both alternator and battery replacement buggers the best of planed holidays.

    John

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