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Thread: Xm - head gasket job

  1. #26
    Tadpole
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    parts have arrived.
    managed to obtain genuine factory stock (Pu/Ci) head gaskets.
    did not expect to be able to get those so happy to have them.
    different in construction to the head gaskets we removed which i guess might have been aftermarket.
    the difference is in the central metal section which is one piece in the factory stock.
    also obtained good quality glasser head bolts.
    along with 4 original individual exhaust manifold gaskets.
    seeing if we can track down a further two.
    again different from the single piece aftermarket exhaust gaskets on the car.
    all from m bray. a very good resource.

    just been doing the steering rack boot and the passenger side front brake caliper.

    moving into reconstruction phase.

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  2. #27
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    Relevant to this thread:
    PRV head bolt torque

  3. #28
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    we did the front bank yesterday.
    as per torque settings in link.
    but don't forget to oil the headbolt threads and behind the nut before installing.

    made a little bracket for the dipstick tube connection to the alternator which had broken.
    used a bent bolt and some fuel injector hose to mimic flexible rubber with bonded bolts factory part.
    re did the conduits on the starter motor wiring.
    we are going to polish up the front bank exhaust shield to get its reflectivity up. might have been fairly reflective factory fresh?
    could help with starter motor heat problems.

    horror job so far was the steering rack boot. a day!
    best description i can give is training as a vet would be handy.
    JAJEA dropped out to the workshop in the middle of the day to introduce himself and say hello.
    three xms lying about for him to look over.
    gave me a welcome break from reaching into the wheel well up to my elbows.
    i had plenty of professional help to do this job. it would have been extremely frustrating otherwise.

    may have gotten to the bottom of cause of blown head gasket.
    engine might have overheated due to one of the coolant hoses being partly clogged.
    one of the ones that runs around in the area of the thermostat.
    we don't think the overheating was too catastrophic whenever it happened.
    but it was enough to make the back bank gasket fail (just) in the vicinity of #6.
    no warping of head or any porosity as a result.

  4. #29
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    Rack boots aren't so bad if approached the right way and using the factory boots or a good copy. Generic rubber gaiters are a bad idea and will take you so long to work with that any saving is worthless.

    You need to take out the wheel liner for access.

    The RHS boot is easy and needs to slip over the rubber rack buffer at the RHS under the tack rod knuckle. The buffer can be fragile now and is NFP. Unscrew the tie rod end and the boot slips over the track rod.

    The LHS is not so simple because you have to remove the track rod (pipe wrench works - you won't find a lock washer) and release the ram from the rack to get to the inner portion. What works for me is to slacken the inner ram bolt, remove the LH rack mount bolt, slacken the RH rack mount bolt, but leave it in place, remove the nut for the ram and then you have enough room to move it all about to release the outer end of the ram and move it aside and slide the new inner gaiter on. Refit, but be aware there are 18 and 22mm diameter track rods and the outer ends of the boots are different. Your car should have the 22mm track rods, but it is possible to fit the 18mm rods paired to the earlier tie-rods and outer LHS boot. If you have a 22mm boot and an 18mm track rod, a piece of rubber hose can act as a spacer.

  5. #30
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    was the lhs one.
    had to really play around constantly with steering wheel to get the power steering ram off the rack. comes off fairly easily at a certain extension and angle of steering (similar debacle refitting ram to rack after).
    used a genuine factory gaiter to replace the torn generic rubber boot that was fitted. very very difficult to get it over the end of the rack and feed it on. has to go through a 90 degree turn. you need very very strong fingers. can see why a generic rubber boot might have been fitted prior due to that particular problem. also getting it to clip on to the little groove it hooks into at either end via the inner moulding is also not as easy as it looks. not a lot of access in there to get your hands into a position where you can exert force. again strong fingers necessary.

    while the genuine part gaiter or boot fits nicely once you finally get it on, i noticed it appeared to be a kind of semi flexible plastic rather than a true rubber or rubberised polymer. might explain why they split? a common problem with xantias too i'm told.

    hopefully it lasts because i never want to do it again.

  6. #31
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    This may have already been mentioned. It's in French, but contains all data for XM Xantia & Evasion. If anyone has the equivalent version in English, I'd be very happy to know. I've tested the link and it still works.

    http://www.notice-d-utilisation.com/...=2603&cf_id=24

  7. #32
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    we are nearly there.
    only accessories to hook up.

    i will write it up for you guys, but in an abbreviated form, to add in a couple of little tips the manuals don't cover.
    the small english workshop manual recommended to us has been very good.
    all the information we have needed for important specs, torque settings, assembly sequence etc.

    we have discovered a number of little eccentricities along the way and the tips i leave will assist with slightly frustrating moments.
    if i can remember all the frustrating moments.
    for instance the front rocker cover has two bolts that look identical in all respects to all the other bolts but are smaller threads - you don't spot it until you have the rocker cover down on its wet gasket and you wonder why a number of bolts won't do up. its a minute difference in detail. questions. have we stripped a thread? whats going on etc? until penny drops. it pays to mock up placement for all bolts for any element of the engine by testing them in threads before hand and have it all laid out before laying anything down with a wet gasket. if you knew what you were doing you could have this thing apart and back together fairly quickly. however we also spend half the day we work on it each week standing around talking.

    engine looks good if nothing else. assembly line fresh and clean.

    hope to see some of you citroen guys around when we get it rolling again which is not far away.
    though we still face a roadworthy, so not completely sure what else we may have to do.
    UFO likes this.

  8. #33
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    I am sure this engine as also used in Volvo 260 and 760 series

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by aceone95 View Post
    I am sure this engine is also used in Volvo 260 and 760 series
    That's why it's known as the PRV engine (Peugeot Renault Volvo).
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  10. #35
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    Standing around talking is part of the job!

    Well done for getting it sorted.

  11. #36
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    all back together minus starter motor. we have neglected to chase that up. next.

    took us longer than anticipated to get all accessories back on.
    rebuilt a/c mounts as a new unit had been installed but it's installation was fudged by previous installer.
    had a moment where we realised we had caught heater piper bracket mount in edge of rear rocker cover.
    engine is so wide we couldn't see we had snagged it installing the rocker cover.
    hydraulic pump was already on by time we realised it. pump had to come off and we had to slacken off rocker cover bolts and edge the bracket out. pump back on again. forwards backwards forwards again. not to mention dropping a tiny hydraulic pipe bracket bolt during second install which disappeared and took hours to find. it had lodged itself harmlessly on a piece of subframe out of sight. stuff happens.

    also we dropped the sump at the end. full of caramel. ended up a big cleaning job. and then reinstalling.

    yesterday saw us there and probably with a day to go once we get starter motor.
    install that.
    oil. (cheap to do an initial flush). coolant (probably just water to do an initial flush).
    reconnect hydraulics and top up lhm.

    time tally. 7 months of 1 day per week = 28 days so far. 2 people.
    not bad i suppose, considering we did not know what we were doing.
    at no point did it get truly frustrating. just tricky at odd spots.

    give us a couple of weeks and i'll let you know if it goes........?
    Demannu, UFO and forumnoreason like this.

  12. #37
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    starter motor back on.
    at this stage its made from a bx starter motor pulled apart and assembled into the xm v6 nose casting.
    rated at 1.05kw.
    from what i can gather an original should be 1.2kw.
    best we could do.
    building a high torque starter motor for the xm turned out more complex than first thought. not enough space?
    but we might still pursue it. but not as a high torque type.
    fitment of starter motor a thread in itself. surgical operation to fit top bolt. !!!!!
    but its all entirely back together as of 6.45 pm tonight.

    we might attempt key turn friday afternoon if we have time.
    fluids to get in.
    and if we get it started a running flush of the coolant system.
    fingers crossed.

    standing around tonight at the shop after we put the bottom splash tray back on was a big moment.
    a long day at the end of 7 months of mondays.
    we were tempted to go on into the night and see if it fired up, but decided better to come back to it later in the week in case something tested our patience.
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  13. #38
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    I'm been watching your progress with this job.. I'm doing mine right now, though it's only a 12 valve.

    I'm wondering what to do with the starter.. I'm not having a problem with it, but it's right there looking at me!. And then you've commented about using a BX starter & swapping the nose over.. I can get a BX starter pretty easily. The drive pinion is the same size?
    Good luck with it.. Biiiiiigggg job hey!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using aussiefrogs mobile app

  14. #39
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    The starter is not really that hard on a 12V PRV XM, but the flow divider and regulator do get in the way. With those fitted, you want to remove the mounting bolts for the flow divider so you can move it forward a little and then get at the 3rd bolt at the top with a long extension. It will be a hex or maybe Torx, depending on what someone has fitted over the years.

    You can actually use an ES9 V6 starter as a donor just as easily as a BX starter and swap the nose. The D6RA family is in fact a geared starter and the gears benefit from cleaning and lubricating. Two points to note are that you have to drive off a snap ring to fully dismantle it and you need to fit the hook of the spring under the little tab on the steel case when refitting the brushes and their holder. If it just slips under the Bakelite holder, it will likely crack it in time. The best way to fit the spring is to fit it without the brushes, ensuring the hook is properly hooked under the steel tab, and only then lift each arm aside to fit each brush. Don't forget the small fibreglass triangles between each brush and spring arm.
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  15. #40
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    3.00 pm this afternoon.

    key was turned.
    click.
    click.

    then our senior master mechanic walked over.
    ripped a relay out from behind the passenger headlight jiggled it and barely half a turn of the starter motor and it burst into life.

    ....like it wanted to go.

    she is up and running.
    everything works except one brake light.
    all operational.
    hydraulics bled and sitting on four wheels-----dignified.

    by the third start the engine had completely quietened down.
    oil lubricating all the moving parts.

    we will drive it out of the workshop on monday and get some fuel in the tank and wash her.

    david s - the starter motor cranked beautifully.
    thanks for further information on alternatives.

  16. #41
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    Xm - head gasket job-p8109785.jpg
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  17. #42
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    that is a nice car, good reading a calm and considered thread.
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  18. #43
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    drove it out of workshop today.
    some squirts were taken in it.
    with permits...... of course.

    i think you are right forumnoreason, its a nice car.

    its tight. but its done nearly 400k miles?
    it seems to have no rattles. no suspension noises. no gearbox whine. nothing.
    not even rattles from the interior. at least none we could hear on the limited work out it got.
    says something for its previous owners.
    car has been very well maintained.

    there are two other xms in our circle - and they are very nice to drive, but they do not drive like this one.

    we got a bit of a shock.
    we are still recovering from it i think after 7 months of head down arse up in the engine bay.
    UFO and gsowner84 like this.

  19. #44
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    I do miss the old Sassy.

    Nice to see it's out on the road again.
    UFO and gsowner84 like this.
    Regards,

    Simon

    2018 308 GTi 2011 DS3 DSport
    ----
    2014 208 GTi 2007 207 GTi 2004 206 GTi180 2000 206 GTi 1995 306 XT

    www.peugeotclub.asn.au

  20. #45
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    today

    Xm - head gasket job-p8139800.jpg
    Last edited by wonkipop; Yesterday at 05:13 AM.
    GreenBlood, SLC206 and gsowner84 like this.

  21. #46
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Thank you @wonkipop for taking such wonderful care of the old spaceship, Sassy. Great to see that you have given her a new lease of life.
    wonkipop likes this.
    1974 Citroen D Special (Blanc Meije)
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  22. #47
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    you are dead right there gsowner84.
    its a spaceship.
    its the green. it merges with the glass.
    the car is incredible.
    whoever ordered it new had taste in spades.

    i can see why harry seidler had one.
    (but i know he ditched it and went merc. i won't say anything more. i met harry once and he gave me some signed books,
    he was a cool cat was harry.)

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