Xm - head gasket job - Page 2
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Thread: Xm - head gasket job

  1. #26
    Tadpole
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    melbourne
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    parts have arrived.
    managed to obtain genuine factory stock (Pu/Ci) head gaskets.
    did not expect to be able to get those so happy to have them.
    different in construction to the head gaskets we removed which i guess might have been aftermarket.
    the difference is in the central metal section which is one piece in the factory stock.
    also obtained good quality glasser head bolts.
    along with 4 original individual exhaust manifold gaskets.
    seeing if we can track down a further two.
    again different from the single piece aftermarket exhaust gaskets on the car.
    all from m bray. a very good resource.

    just been doing the steering rack boot and the passenger side front brake caliper.

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    moving into reconstruction phase.

  2. #27
    Fellow Frogger
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    Relevant to this thread:
    PRV head bolt torque

  3. #28
    Tadpole
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    we did the front bank yesterday.
    as per torque settings in link.
    but don't forget to oil the headbolt threads and behind the nut before installing.

    made a little bracket for the dipstick tube connection to the alternator which had broken.
    used a bent bolt and some fuel injector hose to mimic flexible rubber with bonded bolts factory part.
    re did the conduits on the starter motor wiring.
    we are going to polish up the front bank exhaust shield to get its reflectivity up. might have been fairly reflective factory fresh?
    could help with starter motor heat problems.

    horror job so far was the steering rack boot. a day!
    best description i can give is training as a vet would be handy.
    JAJEA dropped out to the workshop in the middle of the day to introduce himself and say hello.
    three xms lying about for him to look over.
    gave me a welcome break from reaching into the wheel well up to my elbows.
    i had plenty of professional help to do this job. it would have been extremely frustrating otherwise.

    may have gotten to the bottom of cause of blown head gasket.
    engine might have overheated due to one of the coolant hoses being partly clogged.
    one of the ones that runs around in the area of the thermostat.
    we don't think the overheating was too catastrophic whenever it happened.
    but it was enough to make the back bank gasket fail (just) in the vicinity of #6.
    no warping of head or any porosity as a result.

  4. #29
    Fellow Frogger
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    Rack boots aren't so bad if approached the right way and using the factory boots or a good copy. Generic rubber gaiters are a bad idea and will take you so long to work with that any saving is worthless.

    You need to take out the wheel liner for access.

    The RHS boot is easy and needs to slip over the rubber rack buffer at the RHS under the tack rod knuckle. The buffer can be fragile now and is NFP. Unscrew the tie rod end and the boot slips over the track rod.

    The LHS is not so simple because you have to remove the track rod (pipe wrench works - you won't find a lock washer) and release the ram from the rack to get to the inner portion. What works for me is to slacken the inner ram bolt, remove the LH rack mount bolt, slacken the RH rack mount bolt, but leave it in place, remove the nut for the ram and then you have enough room to move it all about to release the outer end of the ram and move it aside and slide the new inner gaiter on. Refit, but be aware there are 18 and 22mm diameter track rods and the outer ends of the boots are different. Your car should have the 22mm track rods, but it is possible to fit the 18mm rods paired to the earlier tie-rods and outer LHS boot. If you have a 22mm boot and an 18mm track rod, a piece of rubber hose can act as a spacer.

  5. #30
    Tadpole
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    was the lhs one.
    had to really play around constantly with steering wheel to get the power steering ram off the rack. comes off fairly easily at a certain extension and angle of steering (similar debacle refitting ram to rack after).
    used a genuine factory gaiter to replace the torn generic rubber boot that was fitted. very very difficult to get it over the end of the rack and feed it on. has to go through a 90 degree turn. you need very very strong fingers. can see why a generic rubber boot might have been fitted prior due to that particular problem. also getting it to clip on to the little groove it hooks into at either end via the inner moulding is also not as easy as it looks. not a lot of access in there to get your hands into a position where you can exert force. again strong fingers necessary.

    while the genuine part gaiter or boot fits nicely once you finally get it on, i noticed it appeared to be a kind of semi flexible plastic rather than a true rubber or rubberised polymer. might explain why they split? a common problem with xantias too i'm told.

    hopefully it lasts because i never want to do it again.

  6. #31
    Tadpole
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    This may have already been mentioned. It's in French, but contains all data for XM Xantia & Evasion. If anyone has the equivalent version in English, I'd be very happy to know. I've tested the link and it still works.

    http://www.notice-d-utilisation.com/...=2603&cf_id=24

  7. #32
    Tadpole
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    we are nearly there.
    only accessories to hook up.

    i will write it up for you guys, but in an abbreviated form, to add in a couple of little tips the manuals don't cover.
    the small english workshop manual recommended to us has been very good.
    all the information we have needed for important specs, torque settings, assembly sequence etc.

    we have discovered a number of little eccentricities along the way and the tips i leave will assist with slightly frustrating moments.
    if i can remember all the frustrating moments.
    for instance the front rocker cover has two bolts that look identical in all respects to all the other bolts but are smaller threads - you don't spot it until you have the rocker cover down on its wet gasket and you wonder why a number of bolts won't do up. its a minute difference in detail. questions. have we stripped a thread? whats going on etc? until penny drops. it pays to mock up placement for all bolts for any element of the engine by testing them in threads before hand and have it all laid out before laying anything down with a wet gasket. if you knew what you were doing you could have this thing apart and back together fairly quickly. however we also spend half the day we work on it each week standing around talking.

    engine looks good if nothing else. assembly line fresh and clean.

    hope to see some of you citroen guys around when we get it rolling again which is not far away.
    though we still face a roadworthy, so not completely sure what else we may have to do.
    UFO likes this.

  8. #33
    Tadpole
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    I am sure this engine as also used in Volvo 260 and 760 series

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by aceone95 View Post
    I am sure this engine is also used in Volvo 260 and 760 series
    That's why it's known as the PRV engine (Peugeot Renault Volvo).
    UFO likes this.

  10. #35
    UFO
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    Standing around talking is part of the job!

    Well done for getting it sorted.

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