1974 DS23 Pallas interior light not operating
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  1. #1
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    Default 1974 DS23 Pallas interior light not operating

    The interior lights in my DS23 Pallas are currently non-operational. The fuse, the door switches, the switch on the dashboard and the globes are all OK, but I'm not getting power at either the dashboard switch or the light bases on the roof rail.

    I assume the interior lighting is part of the AR harness which terminates near the glovebox. I've just had the dashboard out and while I had good access to the left hand end of the dashboard, I checked that each connector in that group was firm.

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    Any suggestions as to a logical troubleshooting procedure?

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Is there power on both sides of the fuse?

    Cheers, Ken

  3. #3
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    Yes, power on both sides of the fuse, Ken - and the other services on Fuse 3 (other than the boot light) seem to be working alright.

    By the way, if you return to this thread; (acknowledging that this is off-topic) you recently responded to my thread about turning the motor over on an auto D (to adjust valve clearances) and you referred to RL Bachelor's 'flywheel claw'. I hunted for the relevant youtube video, but couldn't find it. If you can provide a link it would be much appreciated. Chris

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    I have the same problem in my DS21 Pallas., which I understand is common. So I am very interested in the cure.
    Don
    Quote Originally Posted by Citquery View Post
    The interior lights in my DS23 Pallas are currently non-operational. The fuse, the door switches, the switch on the dashboard and the globes are all OK, but I'm not getting power at either the dashboard switch or the light bases on the roof rail.

    I assume the interior lighting is part of the AR harness which terminates near the glovebox. I've just had the dashboard out and while I had good access to the left hand end of the dashboard, I checked that each connector in that group was firm.

    Any suggestions as to a logical troubleshooting procedure?

  5. #5
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    As i understand it the light switches are on the negative side of the circuit and ground the lights. That said, there should be 12v on one side of the switch and the body. If not then I suspect a broken wire somewhere.

    The wiring for the interior lights is possibly the longest run in the whole loom. It goes from the dashboard down the exterior side of the passenger A pillar and into the sill. From there it runs up the C pillar behind the seat and interior trim to the roof rail. If you haven't already I would suggest setting a multimeter to measure resistance and checking each wire is actually connected to something. You are looking for a 0 ohm or near 0 ohm reading. anything else indicates a broken or heavily corroded wire.

  6. #6
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    Thanks, faulksy - that's helpful.

    While I had my dashboard out recently, I made a note of the bundle of connectors in the loom at the left hand end of the dashboard. Referring to the table below, the colour in regular font / bold font of each pair (in each row) is, respectively, the colour of the wire insulation and its coloured sheath.

    It's a long shot, but you don't by any chance know which of these wires should run to the C pillar and which might serve the interior lights? I think from the C pillar the interior light loom runs forward to the lamp positions above the B pillars. (I only recorded these colours a couple of weeks ago and my nomenclature is already puzzling me! I think the "outer end" of each pair runs outside the cabin and the "inner end" runs into the large bundle of wires in the loom which runs across the bottom of the dashboard (below the corrugated cardboard ventilation pipe).

    Connections at left hand end of Dashboard (behind glove box)
    green mauve green mauve
    green green black green
    green yellow green yellow
    green red green red
    green blue black blue
    brown white black white
    brown black grey black
    brown brown green brown
    yellow yellow yellow yellow
    grey grey black grey

    The formatting of my table has gone haywire copying and pasting from Excel. Referring to the table, the left hand combination of each pair of wires is at the "Outer end" (as described above) and the right hand combination of each pair of wires is at the "Inner end".
    Last edited by Citquery; 27th October 2017 at 08:01 PM.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Greg's Avatar
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    Hi Guys,

    The most common problem is the door switch....... This is usually what happens. There is a male bullet terminals that is a self tapping screw at the other end. It screws into the black plastic spring loaded shaft that is the what turns the interior light on and off.

    What happens is the where the bullet terminal screws into the shaft, the plastic grows, and becomes too large at the very end, to pass though the metal housing and stops the bullet terminal and the housing making proper contact (earth out) to turn the light on.

    It's easily fixed by dismantling the switch, and put the centre black spindle in an electric drill (the larger diameter) and spin the shaft and remove the tapered cone that's developed at the end where the terminal screws in, with a small file. The cone will only be slight larger than the main shaft, but its enough to stop the switch from working.

    Reassemble, and providing the earth wires are all good, it should no allow the full length of the shaft to protrude when the door is open, and connect to earth and light the lamp.

    While the swith is apart, it a good time to clean up all the switch parts, and polish the outer stainless steel face of the housing with a buff.

    This was a problem with the DS right from new! It took me a while to resolve. In the beginning we just replaced the switch, which is probably what every one still does.

    Best regards,

    Greg
    We Have:
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  8. #8
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    Greg,

    Thanks for your suggestion re the door switches. I've just had both of mine out and fortunately, they're fine.

    I will start another thread, as I need to access the rear loom, which I understand runs along the left hand side of the car somewhere. To cut a long story short, I've discovered some melted insulation where the loom comes through the floor at the base of the rear seat backrest.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Citquery View Post
    To cut a long story short, I've discovered some melted insulation where the loom comes through the floor at the base of the rear seat backrest.
    Nice tip from Greg. We've all been caught out with those dodgy light switches!


    Your loom: So that you don't end up in the same position again, have you any idea how it's happened? There's not a lot going on at the back of the car to draw power is there? Is it maybe the victim of floor welding? It doesn't help your current problem but there's little point in fixing it if it's going to happen again.

    Budge

  10. #10
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    I understand your logic, Budge. Important to find what caused the melting moment.

    The car has been off the road for about 5 years and I don't recall the interior lights working for some time. I suspect there has been a short in the rear part of the loom somewhere, which seemingly has only affected the interior lights. This may even have occurred prior to when I purchased the vehicle.

    All rear lights work alright, the fuel gauge works and I don't use the heated rear window, but its wiring appears OK.

  11. #11
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    Interior lights are now operating with both door switches and the dash switch.

    I thought it worth taking a punt on replacing the damaged sections of wire just above the point where the rear harness enters the cabin near the left hand rear door (see photo). Citroen normally uses half reasonable grommets where wiring such as this passes through the body, but at this point the (wrapped) loom comes straight through the metal. I plan to install a grommet of some sort at that point at some stage, but for now the repaired loom is working fine.

    The radio in my car has been installed in the left hand side of the dash, just below the glove box which, when removed, gives access (just) to the rear harness connectors. Out of an abundance of caution, I've fitted an inline fuse to wire 4 (which feeds the interior lights) and as I have a spare switch on the dash, I've also run wire 4 through that switch so that I can stop the interior lights working automatically. As I say, all is working fine (for now).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1974 DS23 Pallas interior light not operating-rear-harness-entry-point-near-lhr-door.jpg  

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