My new Xantia CT
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 3 123 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 72
Like Tree26Likes

Thread: My new Xantia CT

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default My new Xantia CT

    Although swearing (as a teenager) I would never drive anything but a Pug 205 Ive gone to the dark side...

    1 owner. 67k. Black Xantia CT.

    Had the usual diode dramas staying in hard mode. Fitted one of Roys black boxes which fixed it straight away. Corner sphers are new as is the front accumulator. Ive purchased the remaining 3 to make it a full set of 8 changed. It currently rides well but theres certainly more to come. Small road details are still way to hard which points to the center spheres. Hopefully will change them this weekend.

    The car looks like new inside which I want to preserve the best I can. Black leather seats with elec adjustments both sides. Also has a sunroof. I want to have this car for a long time and want to be proactive with keeping it in top condition. A few things that scare me are the top mounts going through the bonnet and the heater core leaking into the cabin requiring the entire dash out to fix as Im sure you are all aware!

    Advertisement


    Whats the best way to inspect the condition and likelyhood of the top mounts failing? Can I buy some X2 top mounts or modified x1 versions to save my dent free bonnet?

    Im chasing a knock/rattle that comes through the steering wheel over rough roads. Research tells me this is most likely the droplinks. Hoping to get under the car this weekend to assess. Theres also a rattle/knock from the rear. I dont think its trailing are bearing, surely not at 69k? Maybe a loose spare wheel cage? Anything else to check under there? (Could be dud exhaust?)

    The car is brilliant and a pleasure to drive. The clutch is worn and needs replacing but otherwise just fine! Im upping the boost next week as the motor really is lazy. Ill keep everyone up to date on that.

    Any other things I should be looking at? I know the sunroofs can become faulty, why is that? Lack of use/lube?

    Enough for now!

    Thanks for reading.
    JohnW, SLC206, qcom and 3 others like this.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    By the way hello on the Cit forum!
    GreenBlood likes this.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,468

    Default

    Hi Cam,

    When you get under the car up on ramps, check the power steering ram mounting bushes. If they havn't already been replaced, they will most likely be gone by now. Get someone to start the engine and try to steer from side to side and see if the Ram moves laterally. Eventually the pipes from the pinion valve crack and start leaking LHM so if there is any movement replace them soon. I had to take the rack out on my Activa (too much stuff about) but managed to do my non-hydractive wagon with the rack in-situ.

    Also check the lower wishbone bushes - they cop a lot of pressure on CT/Activa - I need to replace mine on the Activa.

    Another gotchya on the CT/Activa is the failure of the boot on the back of the brake valve. When it leaks, the LHM goes straight into the carpet and underlay of the driver footwell. You lose a litre of LHM and can't see where it is going until it's too late.

    Be very careful of your LHM return lines, they will be very brittle and are not an easy find as replacements - especially the brake valve return line which will be very brittle due to turbo heat. When I take out my reservoir these days I remove each pipe separately rather the draging out the whole centre section.

    I have had to replace the coolant hoses going to the turbo with aftermarket silicon right angle hoses as they were leaking and not available for Citroen any more - that was a lot of fun.

    Another fun one is the plastic on the heater pipe connection on the firewall gets brittle with age and one day one of the pipes will just crack off the connector system. Best solution here is to just join the pipes together with a right angle joiner. This solves the leaking heater matrix issue as well.

    Have fun - when that turbo kicks in, I always have a smile on my dial.

    Cheers, Ken W

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Wow thanks alot Ken

    The car has had some of the return lines replaced. Ill find out which ones. I may need to replace a leaking aircon pipe that runs behind the engine. Its getting a clutch in December so will try and address and inspect those pipes to the turbo while Im at it. Thanks for the heads up.

    Is the brake valve boot easy to replace before it leaks?

    Have you played with your turbo boost levels? Im looking to run a manual bosst valve at around 12psi for a little more woosh.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    Good purchase, I discovered a slight LHM drip on my CT today and this afternoon snuck off to put on hoist to find the return hose from the front suspension cylinder was now weeping propfusely, temporary fix involved cutting end of rubber off and gently refitting, holding for now but to be replaced, the rubber on these things can be 20 years old and perished or rock hard.
    Mine has 290k on it and they are pretty tough old beasts.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Devonport, Holiday Coast
    Posts
    331

    Default

    Replaced the drop links on my 1997 model, cost of parts cheap and 5 minute labour job.
    2014 C5 2.2 HDI Limited Edition Sedan
    2007 C5 2.2 Hatchback
    2007 C4 1.6 EGS Sedan

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    1,722

    Default

    Agree with everything Ken said -esp. about the brake valve boot!

    It can start as a modest leak, which quietly trickles down the inside of the firewall and pools in the footwell underneath the carpet and foam underlay. Unless you are very sensitive to the smell of LHM, probably the first you will know about it is when the STOP light won't go out and the alarm won't stop chiming due to the low level of LHM in the tank (don't ask me how I know this ). Of course that will correspond with the carpet underlay finally reaching saturation, meaning that if you wear your driving shoes into the house, you will walk LHM onto the carpet .

    You are probably right about the drop-links - again from personal experience the noise they generate seems out of all proportion with their size and function - but as Ken says, lower control arm bushes are worth checking as well.

    Re. the strut-tops - is your CT a 1997 model (ie. final year before introduction of Series II)? I had a strut-top fail on a '97 CT, and it didn't go through the bonnet - which means it was the later type. In fact I wasn't even aware that the rubber had failed- it was picked up during a rego check. The redesigned strut tops were fitted to all Series II cars, and apparently were also fitted to late Series 1 cars, but I don't know from what build date. I would still budget for replacing them, as being rubber I would guess age might be as important as km travelled...

    One other Series I issue, which is supposedly fixed in Series II, is the wiring for the cabin fan. In Series I, the current for the cabin fan travels through the ignition switch contacts, without benefit of a relay. Not surprisingly, the contacts in the ignition switch fail, and the cabin fan stops working. The solution is to fit a relay, so that original wiring via ignition switch becomes the control wire for the relay.

    Actually there's another cabin fan issue - the cabin fan power plug(s) can melt from the high current being drawn by the fan. Clean terminals, check tightness of connectors, and (this tip may have been from JBN? EDIT - actually it was George 1/8th) fit a heavier duty earth wire (and of course make sure it has a very good/clean/tight earthing point).

    Cheers

    Alec
    Last edited by Armidillo; 30th October 2017 at 10:46 PM.

  8. #8
    JBN
    JBN is offline
    1000+ Posts JBN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    7,330

    Default

    I am currently looking for a working cabin fan. Mine just went a week ago returning to Sydney from Canberra. With summer virtually here, aircon would be nice.

    John

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    I get around with free aircon! Poor old car. One day I might figure out how to do the relay thing, I can't find a clear description of how to do it. On only one occasion the aircon came on in nearly two years of owning the car. Bought it for $350 included 6 months rego. The rear wiper has stopped and I'd like to figure out what caused that to pack up. The reason it sold was the owner had loads of grief with the fuel pump,the owners book has a suppossed typo error which shows the pump fuse as 5amp where it needs to be about 20-25. Soon as I changed it it was happy again, good idea to have some on board range of sizes in case of any little or big niggles.

    ok I located Citquery's diagram for fix, can someone give some more details on what to do thankyou and sorry for highjacking thread!

    My new Xantia CT-img_1018.jpg
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 25th October 2017 at 10:48 AM.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Ok thanks a lot guys. Some helpful info here.

    The car is an 12/97 build so the very last of the x1 I believe. Are there any particular differences I can spot to determine what I have?

    I will be attending to the blower relay soon. So far so good. Ill also get down, or up and check the brake valve boot.

    I drove the car about 200k today in traffic, freeway and more traffic. The clutch pedal is starting to become slow or feels slow to return to its up position once the car is heat siaked in traffic. Gear changing becomes knotchy also which points to the clutch itself being worn. Would this be causing the slow pedal return?

    Ive also narrowed down a rattle in the rear. While to car was parked with handbrake on I pushed down on the rear and got a 'click/knock' from the suspension. Felt like bushes in the shock absorber maybe? It would happen with every push of the car with downward force. What else could this be? The suspension is also getting harder over the bumpy stuff the more I drive the car. It had sat for a few years before I bought it and looking forward to replacing the remaning 3 spheres.

    And as Ken has mentioned I suspect the steering rack bushes are gone as the rattle is getting worse and driving at 120+ today the steerigg felt a little vauge at spme moments.

    Thanks again for all the responses so far. Cant wait to get it perfect. All my mates want a drive but Ive said until its as it should be youll just think its shit!

    Theres a couple of engine mounts that need attention also which is getting intrusive!

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    1,722

    Default

    I'm not aware of other differences between early and late Series 1 cars, but I would say your bonnet is safe .

    There might have been some air in the system when you first started driving it, which will make ride seem soft and floaty, until it naturally bleeds out of the system. Alternatively, have you tried "Citroaerobics" to make sure the hydraulics are moving through their full range? With car parked with engine running, move height lever to highest setting, and wait until it stops rising. If you haven't already done so, now is a good time to check LHM level, as it can only be done at max. height. If that's OK, move lever to lowest level, wait until it's on the bump stops, then repeat cycle a few times. Some people have suggested some spray oil (probably silicon spray) on the upper part of the front struts can help them move more smoothly, especially if the rubber gaiters are not properly protecting them and keeping them clean.

    As you are probably aware, the Turbo CT & V6 models have a hydraulic clutch, while NA 4-cyl models have a cable clutch. The clutch hydraulics are sealed, and completely separate to the main hydraulic system. So could slow pedal return be friction or 'stiction' in the master or slave cylinder? Seems unlikely that the clutch would be physically worn if the car has really only done 67,00 km - perhaps more likely that seals in master or slave cylinder are allowing fluid to leak past, preventing proper disengagement of clutch.

    Obviously there are no shock absorber bushes, front or rear! Just tried pushing rear of my SX wagon (which has less spheres) up and down and got a light knock/knock with each change of direction. Until someone comes up with a better idea, am inclined to put this down to disk pads being able to move forward and back slightly (they are unloaded, as handbrake operates front disks on a Xantia). If yours is audible when on the move, might be worth checking wheel bearings, disk calipers, and the rear beam bearings (just like 205s and 306s). Another thought - what about exhaust mounts? Perhaps the muffler is hitting the body, especially since you've identified stuffed engine mounts, which might be causing more exhaust movement than usual.

    Hopefully someone can offer a wiring sketch, or even photos, of the process of fitting the blower relay (I got Tom Dolan to do mine).

    Cheers

    Alec

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,356

    Default

    This may help re the brake valve:
    Citroen Xantia Brake Control Valve Leak

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Jinandfonic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Chermside West Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    The throw out bearing failed on my C5 manual with the same symptoms you describe before that happened. Clutch was only half worn. Component failure! Grrr
    Citroen C5 II manual '05; C4 Exculsive '07; Citroen CX2200 Pallas '76; CX2400 C-matic Pallas '78

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,468

    Default

    Cam,

    The clutches on these RGX systems are are a puller type clutch with the throw-out bearing clicked into the pressure plate by an expanding circlip at assembly. When the circlip wears enough, the throw-out bearing will pull out of the pressure plate and no clutch. This happened to me in two pushes of the clutch - first push, the pedal didn't come up properly, second push and clutch pedal on the floor. I wouldn't be driving it much more until you get a new clutch. I hope the hydraulics of the clutch release system are OK.

    Don't just look at the brake valve rear boot - replace it ASAP. It is not a fun job but you can get it out once you remove the top turbo pipe. And be prepared to replace the brake return pipe at the same time.

    No need to worry about the turbo coolant pipes until they start to leak - at least yours are low kms.

    Cheers, Ken

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Thanks for the heads up.

    I think thecutvh had a tough time with the previous owner as its still only 69k old.

    Where the best place to order the brake valve boot and any other bits? I have tried a few local people an most dont stock the parts. Ill get one this week and put some time aside on the old mans hoist to get at it.

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    You could test the wonky clutch by topping up the clutch resevoir with dot4 fluid, my CT started missing changes and then the pedal went through and no changes! Advice here suggested loss of fluid which was spot on, probably will only want a liitle bit, best get a liitle funnel with a hose and dribble it in till you can see it is filled, easiest eay anyway. Only way? It sits tucked under the scuttle along the firewall about a third of the way along from drivers side, it is the only thing there with a cap on it! just prise the cap off with a screwdriver,.I bought a brake boot with the o ring for about $30 inc postage off ebay, German ebay. Haven't fitted yet due to ambivalence. Now it'll crap itaself!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 25th October 2017 at 09:56 PM.

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    1,722

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Thanks for the heads up.

    I think thecutvh had a tough time with the previous owner as its still only 69k old.

    Where the best place to order the brake valve boot and any other bits? I have tried a few local people an most dont stock the parts. Ill get one this week and put some time aside on the old mans hoist to get at it.
    I think it's a job you do from above - as Ken says, remove top turbo pipe.

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Currently raining so no work at present.

    Good news though, Im now part of the blower motor not working club! I would like to know about the relay modification for the blower?
    I understand the principle of whats to be done just need advise on on required relay?

    After reading a lot on topping up the clutch fluid Im keen to give it a try. Fingers crossed its that simple.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    Ha ha cough. I shoved the diagram up there care of a smart person but I need a hand to hold to get through.
    I didn't see any leaky leaky around clutch bits but mine has been happy since top up,
    bon chance ami!

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    1,722

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Currently raining so no work at present.

    Good news though, Im now part of the blower motor not working club! I would like to know about the relay modification for the blower?
    I understand the principle of whats to be done just need advise on on required relay?

    After reading a lot on topping up the clutch fluid Im keen to give it a try. Fingers crossed its that simple.

    "They say" that if your problem should be the ignition contacts, wriggle the key/turn the ignition switch backwards and forwards. If blower starts you'll know where the problem lies...

    Have you tried moving the fan speed slider around - sometimes they only work on Max setting.

    Some trouble-shooting tips here - they're actually discussing a Series II, but it is identical except for the ignition relay.

    https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/for...a+cabin+blower

    and this one is a Series I (Mandrake used to post on AF as well)
    https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/for...ic.php?t=21372

    Unfortunately the pictures are not showing - I wasn't logged in, not sure if that makes a difference or not...

    Actually you might start by getting out the trusty torx keys and dropping the furry trim below the glove-box. This will give you access to the fan, so you can check the plugs there.

    While you're there, pull out the pollen filter - you may well be surprised at how much crud it has prevented from being packed into the heater core & evaporator, plus blown through the vents! I have changed pollen filters on Pugs (605 & 406) by removing scuttle - this is completely different - accessible from below rather than above. Slide the long narrow cover toward the passenger window - no screws in cover, but it can be quite tight. You'll notice it has a blunt end and a pointy end - slide in direction of blunt end to remove.

    First clip is pretty poor camera work (& LHD & not in English) but is of a Xantia, & does show you the cover. Clip that immediately follows is in English, and tries harder to show you what to do. His car is a Xsara but it looks basically the same ...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKqF-VmTtQc

    Cheers

    Alec

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Thank you Alec!

    What a great post. Loads of info there. Ill get a multimeter out this weekend (along with all the other jobs piling up!) and see where the power supply needs attention.

    Loving the shape of the car the more I drive it.

    I am 6ft 3in and my head almost scrapes the roof. There looks to be some small spacers/washers under the seat. Can these be removed to get another 1-2cm clearence? I think the combination of having so much adjustment of the elec seat almost makes it difficult to be satisfied with a comfortable seating position.

    Will keep you posted as to what I find over the weekend.

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    going back to that diagram I found (I didn't take the time to see who posted it apologies) was it you John? can anyone explain what goes where because it is sketchy, I scooped up the relay diagram it was connected with but none of it makes any sense, to me anyway : (

    My new Xantia CT-img_1019.jpg

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    3,009

    Default

    Its in the ignition barrel! Moved the keys and shes worked a treat. Ill pull it apart and check it out.
    Armidillo likes this.

  24. #24
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    8,853

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Its in the ignition barrel! Moved the keys and shes worked a treat. Ill pull it apart and check it out.
    Fit the relay now!! Several of us have been there.....

    Great buy, by the way. Hope you get years of pleasure from a great car.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,993

    Default

    and when you find out how to do it tell me!

Page 1 of 3 123 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •