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Thread: My new Xantia CT

  1. #101
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Cam,

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    Your car will need the 30 pin connector as used on series 1 Xantias and XMs. It does not work with an ODB connector or reader. Even though Series 2 Xantias have an OBD style connector, they still will not work with the OBD standard readers until the release of the C5.

    Your only choice is a lexia or diagbox PC based system with the 30 pin to OBD interface cable.

    Cheers, Ken
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  2. #102
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Thanks Ken. Not sure why I didnt see this and respond. Ill keep that in mind when I purchase one. I almost got one from a guy with the PC and his PC died before I picked it up...


    Ive had a few issues... and a few potential successes!


    Ive recently replaced the radiator ( fairly straight forward actually.. ) and now that its not leaking ( holding pressure ) the rest of the system is now going to have to hold up...which its not...

    Arriving up at the mechanics yesterday we opened the bonnet to a very swollen top rad hose. Upon looking into the bay deeper BANG! Another hose running from the Tstat housing to the heater core let go with no warning. Covered in hot coolant is not the best experience.

    Ive put a request in from my legendary parts guy in the UK to source the 2 offending hoses and he is scared that they are NLA but lets see.. I think I may even attempt to replace the heater core before it lets go also...Or just bypass it?

    Ive been testing a theory on here that I think Gary or Ken or John suggested. As you all know Im having issues with the rear electrovalve. The suggestion was to drive the car in the 'sport' mode which makes the electrovalve turn on and off more often due to changing the threshold ( lowering it ) that activates that hard mode ( from soft ). Almost exercising it.. In doing this the car actually rides better when it clicks open and is incredibly smooth. It then goes back to its old habits for a few minutes and then soft again pointing to a weak electrovalve.

    SO, after more and more reading ( ive still not got a lexia, its on the list ) I pulled out the electrovalve and stretched the small spring to give it more force to stay open once the initial 12v spike opens it from the ECU. Im yet to drive the car ( thanks to the coolant hoses ) so cannot be sure that has solved it. I must add that when the valve is open the ride height is spot on and the car rides faultlessly without lifting up at the back. If I gun it and hammer through the gears it will lift up and carry on but will soon settle once the valve opens again. Fingers crossed this simple solution ( which makes sense right? ) will solve it. I had 2 electrovalves to look at and the one that works better has more spring in the spring which confirms my research is right. A lot of the UK guys have done this easy mod with great success. I stretched it 50% more than the original length.

    Ive also manage to find a new octopus which is getting replaced at the moment. Fingers crossed this will cure the air getting in the system and I will have smooth steering again. There is a small split in a couple of the pipes.

    Next on the list is a clutch and rear main seal. Its either leaking LHM or engine oil onto the clutch and now that Ive added 50hp and shed loads more torque its really struggling. So fresh clutch soon and she should be right!

    Ive also got a brake valve seal coming as Im sure that will give up soon and leak LHM into the foot well..

    Anyone want to help with the dash out heater core replacement!? Ill cook a mean breakfast, lunch, dinner for the effort, time required!
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  3. #103
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Cam,

    When you buy a heater core try to get some assurance that the pressure rating and quality are better than the original unit. I replaced a leaky one in my 1997 Xantia and the replacement was as bad as the one I took out. Also, it can be difficult to extract the heater hose connector on the firewall and there is a fair chance it will snap somewhere. You might need to see if you can get a replacement hose and connector set but I think they have been NLA for a few years now.

    Cheers, Ken

  4. #104
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Thanks Ken

    Im dreading the heater core situation. I can see that there would be a high chance of the hose snapping off the connector etc.

    Maybe its time to invest in an electric type heater I can plum into the fan somehow and just bypass the heater all together!

    Cam

  5. #105
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    OK. Both hoses have been located and were very well priced. Very lucky

    Should be here in a week or two.

    Cam

  6. #106
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    If you really want a permanent fix for the heater, make up a core in copper and brass with pipes you can slip a hose onto. Delete the stupid clip on fitting at the scuttle, which is where it usually fails rather than the heater core. Heater cores can leak and that can be a pinhole in the aluminium core or a weeping seal for a plastic end tank. The plastic end tanks won't last forever, so it's really only a matter of time. Most cars go to scrap first though.

  7. #107
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    When replacing the clutch, if bleeding the hydraulic clutch actuator, ours required brake fluid (not LHM). Ask me how I know. Best do your own check on that.
    Also the clutch is a "pull type".

  8. #108
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up on the clutch. I was aware that it used brake fluid. Apparently they can be a fiddle to get the pull mechanism to click into place.

    Ive managed to get a clutch out of the UK OE from Peugeot for 100 pounds which Im very happy about. Theres a few more if anyone else wants one?

  9. #109
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    I probably shouldn't be reading this thread... Fills me a) worry and b) making me want a turbo...
    The xantia I'm checking out on Saturday apparently has had everything done, including heater core, strut tops, clutch etc. All it will need is new rear spheres in about 2-3 years. Crossing my fingers
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  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post

    ...

    Ive recently replaced the radiator ( fairly straight forward actually.. ) and now that its not leaking ( holding pressure ) the rest of the system is now going to have to hold up...which its not...

    Arriving up at the mechanics yesterday we opened the bonnet to a very swollen top rad hose. Upon looking into the bay deeper BANG! Another hose running from the Tstat housing to the heater core let go with no warning. Covered in hot coolant is not the best experience.

    ...
    Is it time to re-check the engine compression, and check for bubbles in the coolant? Your problems MAY just be down to old rubber, but to get 2 hose problems together like that sounds a bit suss to me...

    Cheers

    Alec

  11. #111
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good one. Go get it! And then come past my place and show me!

  12. #112
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Currently having the Octopus and a few other return lines replaced. There were a few little cracks all over the place so just as well!

    Turns out the cam we put in the car has had some issues so a 'custom' grind from Peter T is being brewed up on a fresh billet. A little less overlap should do the trick nicely.

    Coolant pipes and clutch still in the air somewhere from the UK. Looking forward to enjoying it some more. Something tells me its going to throw a few more toys out of the pram sometime soon. If the suspension works as it should I will be a happy camper, other things can be sorted out if the suspension works well!

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