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Thread: My new Xantia CT

  1. #76
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Ive fitted a XU10j2 NA camshaft at the moment as I had no luck finding a DKZ. I would highly reccommend a Turbosmart Eboost Street boost controller. I was running it at 14psi and had no issues. Unfortunately you will have trouble fitting a bigger wheel/housing as the manifold wont allow for it due to the way the turbo is mounted. Or how the manifold if designed!

    Theres been quite a few guys running 12-14psi on those turbos for over 80000km with no issues so Im sure it will be fine. Theres a light hesitation at low revs when you crack the throttle. General consensus is that it is a fairly common problem and has not really bothered me.

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    The next step is to fit the VEMS plug in ECU from DP engineering for the stock ecu. Its fairly expensive but obviously allows custom tuning. I dont think I will need anymore power for the Xantia!

  2. #77
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    If your interested in the Eboost Ill PM you the guy in OZ who has the best price ��

  3. #78
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    That makes two of you chasing a DKZ camshaft, enjoy that turbo Cam! Put that engine combo into a 205!
    87 S1 205 GTI / GTI6 powered a project underway

  4. #79
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    I'm also struggling to find a DKZ cam. I've got an XU7JP cam here, might have to measure it up and see what it's like.

    Good to hear that people are still getting reasonably longevity from the turbos running higher boost. I think I have an electronic boost controller somewhere, I'll give it a shot. I currently have a dead turbo control solenoid on the engine, I am thinking that the EBC would perform that function, and I can just put a resistor in place of it to satisfy the ECU.

    I'm thinking it will be a fun project




    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Ive fitted a XU10j2 NA camshaft at the moment as I had no luck finding a DKZ. I would highly reccommend a Turbosmart Eboost Street boost controller. I was running it at 14psi and had no issues. Unfortunately you will have trouble fitting a bigger wheel/housing as the manifold wont allow for it due to the way the turbo is mounted. Or how the manifold if designed!

    Theres been quite a few guys running 12-14psi on those turbos for over 80000km with no issues so Im sure it will be fine. Theres a light hesitation at low revs when you crack the throttle. General consensus is that it is a fairly common problem and has not really bothered me.

    The next step is to fit the VEMS plug in ECU from DP engineering for the stock ecu. Its fairly expensive but obviously allows custom tuning. I dont think I will need anymore power for the Xantia!
    Scotty

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  5. #80
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Yea thats right. Keep the BMV plugged in and just disconnect the piping and add in your ebc.

    The other solution for the cam is to speak with PeterT about a cam. If I dont like the current cam Im keen to investigate something more custom. Apparently he has some fresh blanks in stock...

    Its going on the Dyno fingers crossed on Tuesday so will keep you posted.

    Cam

  6. #81
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Will eagerly look forward to that
    Scotty

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  7. #82
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Are you guys talking about a DKZ cam from a BX TRI 122 or a TZI engine? What benefit do they have in a RGX engine?

    Cheers, Ken

  8. #83
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Yep, that's the one.

    It has higher lift than the RGX motor without adding too much overlap so as to 'blow the boost out the back'.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    Are you guys talking about a DKZ cam from a BX TRI 122 or a TZI engine? What benefit do they have in a RGX engine?

    Cheers, Ken
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

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  9. #84
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    So drove the car home today.

    Engine has livened up nicely after the cam and exhaust work. Huw made a new exhaust under the instruction ' dont make it loud ' and he has done so. Fitting larger bore pipework, new cat, centre and rear mufflers. Sounds nice with no intrusion. Standard tailpipe look also! Happy boy.

    Engine pulls hard from about 2200 rpm and starts to drop off around 5000 but still happy to go to 6k no problem. Which is much nicer than the slog in the guts at 1800-4000rpm like before. Theres more power everywhere and has so much torque. Overtaking on the highway is easy!

    It made 114 KW at the wheels @ 14psi. Spins the wheels in first and second if you want, Im not into that but there you go.

    Suspension has become very subtle and super smooth. Huw drained and flushed the LHM system. Removing the reservoir and cleaning the associated filters etc. Replaced the height corrector with a reconditiond unit along with a known working rear electrovalve.

    Car is riding really well but still tending to sit high in the rear especially between gear changes. It comes back down after a small amount of time but is still quite annoying as the ride stays firmer when the bum is in the air.

    Some more investigation required. Im really keen to get to the bottom of it. Its lovely to be back in something french after being in the VW Caddy for the past 6 weeks.
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  10. #85
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    So drove the car home today.

    Engine has livened up nicely after the cam and exhaust work. Huw made a new exhaust under the instruction ' dont make it loud ' and he has done so. Fitting larger bore pipework, new cat, centre and rear mufflers. Sounds nice with no intrusion. Standard tailpipe look also! Happy boy.

    Engine pulls hard from about 2200 rpm and starts to drop off around 5000 but still happy to go to 6k no problem. Which is much nicer than the slog in the guts at 1800-4000rpm like before. Theres more power everywhere and has so much torque. Overtaking on the highway is easy!

    It made 114 KW at the wheels @ 14psi. Spins the wheels in first and second if you want, Im not into that but there you go.

    Suspension has become very subtle and super smooth. Huw drained and flushed the LHM system. Removing the reservoir and cleaning the associated filters etc. Replaced the height corrector with a reconditiond unit along with a known working rear electrovalve.

    Car is riding really well but still tending to sit high in the rear especially between gear changes. It comes back down after a small amount of time but is still quite annoying as the ride stays firmer when the bum is in the air.

    Some more investigation required. Im really keen to get to the bottom of it. Its lovely to be back in something french after being in the VW Caddy for the past 6 weeks.
    Sounds like it is nearly as fast as a tired old rat infested CX now I might have to screw up the boost a bit now to make sure I can stay infront ( ). I've avoided touching the boost settings in my car. I figured I'd just kill the clutch even more quickly I reckon my car would be down to about 6psi now with tired wastegate springs and untouched 35year old turbo.

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  11. #86
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    After a couple weeks with the car now its developed a few issues.

    After removing the tank to clean inevitably there are a few leaks somewhere near the tank. Its dripping down over the gearbox. SOme down the front and some the rear. Im yet to have the time to actually move things out of the way to have a look at it.

    The clutch is either getting oil on it or is really starting to show its age. Im tempted to bite the bullet and just get it done. It will give me a chance to replace bad hoses and pipework. Fix the broken aircon pipe and fingers crossed enjoy it more!

    I managed to get a brand new Nissens radiator for it from Lithuania for 192 dollars delivered! current one is weeping in a few spots.

    Ive potentially got some time later in the week to have a better look. Meanwhile to battery decided to put its feet up so that needs sorting too. Im still keen on it, its so nice to drive when its going....

  12. #87
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Just re read my post and had a flashback. I remember reading a lot of posts, like the one Ive just written, fifteen years ago and thought "Hope I never end up maintaining an old citroen like these blokes"


    Wow!
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  13. #88
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    So after a few more weeks and trying to research and resolve some issues its still not right.

    Its getting lots of air in the LHM tank when moving the car from low to high mode. Ive replaced the suction hose ( I found a brand new one in spain! ) from the tank to the pump as there was a chance it was sucking in air.

    Ive found a small split in one of the main return hoses and assume this maybe causing the air to come into the stream on the way back from the rear of the car. Is there any other way air could be getting into the system? Do I potentially have a few more leaks?

    The car is still remaining too high at the rear when driving along and refuses to go soft. Only momentarily will it ride like magic.. The diodes are fine, Ive replaced the height corrector and have flushed the whole system. It rides about 2 inches too high which I believe makes the car think its about to drop and so it stiffens the suspension in suspense of a fall.. Very annoying.

    After the tank removal and system clean the car came back also with heavy steering in certain conditions ( low revs ) and sometimes the alarm just chirps on when stopping at a set of lights when the revs drop down to idle. This makes me think either the pump is dead and struggling to supply enough pressure to the system or the air thats in there is causing all sorts of problems with keeping the pressure stable.

    If Ive been driving for half hour and pull up and get out of the car, after about 5-10 seconds its sits back down to the original ride height where it should. If i turn the car on again it will stay there until move away. Instantly it raises up at the rear about 2 inchec and stays there with stiff suspension. Its got a working electrovalve but still seems like its not working properly or the fact the suspension is high ( like in previous paragraph ) its stiffening itself in preparation of a downward moment.

    Can anyone shed some light on things I can do to start enjoy this car. Its never been perfect but Im determined to get it working. When it does momentarily its magic. Any suggestions of where to start fault finding or testing things like pressure etc. Ive read about modifying the pipework in the tank but that seems like a bandaid fix to something else thats going on.

    Im skeptical about changing the rear ride height with the clamp as it sits at the 'correct' height if I do some up and down on the height control before taking off.


    Ive ordered a new Octopus so fingers crossed that solves the air problem. But what about this height issue!


    Please help...!

    Hope everyone is well by the way!

  14. #89
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Hi Cam,

    I think you need to find someone with a Lexia or Diagbox so you can take the car for a drive while monitoring the Suspension Computer so you can see exactly what it is doing regarding hard and soft settings. It will also let you check the operation of all the sensors - suspension height, steering angle, brake pressure etc. All the computer can do is change the setting on the electrovalves, it cannot change how the height corrector work so you should be able to sort out the suspension height issues.

    I can't understand how you are getting air in the LHM tank on a low to high change because nothing is coming back to the tank, it is all going from the tank into the pressure system. Do you mean a high to low change?

    I have a leak across one of my anti-roll rams that seems to result is lots of microbubbles in the LHM. Does your car do diagonal tilt corrections on a repetitive basis when waiting al lights at all?

    There is a pressure switch in the brake circuit that switches the system into firm mode above 40km/hr when there is firm braking applied. I have fitted a switch into this circuit so I can simulate braking to make the system switch to firm and back to soft to exercise the hydractive solenoids and the rear solenoid is now much more responsive than it was initially. A Lexia session showed that my switch was stuck.

    Cheers, Ken

  15. #90
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Thank you Ken.

    I was unaware that these cars can be plugged in to check everything out! Unreal!

    Im guessing Hantos can do this?

    Im in Randwick, anyone near by got one? Or can I buy one?

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    Ken I believe Cam has a Series I Turbo CT VSX, so no anti-roll rams.

    Cam I am somewhat surprised that you've got this far without any help from Proxia/Lexia diagnostics! The diagnostic plug hides in the owners manual compartment, along with the fuse panel. You're welcome to try mine if you're coming through Armidale, but hopefully someone a bit closer to Randwick will volunteer.

    Cheers

    Alec

  17. #92
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Thanks Alec

    Yes its been an interesting journey. I guess my thirst for knowledge and understanding how the system actually works was top priority. Now that I feel as though I get it, its now time to get the help of computer to give me more info to draw from.

    Can I buy a Lexia online for the Xantia and have a look at it myself?

    Cam

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    Yes get a lexia online asap. They are a bit tricky to installon a computer but lots of advise on Aussiefrogs and the instructions must be strictly adhered to. Lexia is an essential tool for Xantia and later cars.

  19. #94
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Is there a particular type I need to buy? Ive been searching and theres alot of different units out there. Anyone point me to a good reliable one?

    Cam

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    Quote Originally Posted by Caisson View Post
    Yes get a lexia online asap. They are a bit tricky to installon a computer but lots of advise on Aussiefrogs and the instructions must be strictly adhered to. Lexia is an essential tool for Xantia and later cars.
    Regarding the sticky rear height .
    My V6 exclusive does something similar if I select high height when the car is stationary then drive off. If I change the setting whilst underway, its fine! ? There is a reference to this in the Haynes manual. Further , I suspect your car is set too high, probably at he front as well as the rear.
    I adjusted mine by putting the car on 2 sets of ramps. I had two bottle jacks pumped up with clearance under the chassis of the distance I wanted to reduce. Then moved the clamps so the car was almost touching the jacks. It took a fair bit of time to get it right, bouncing and moving the controller and a couple of test drives, but the car performes well now. Is is noticeably lower than any other Xantia I have seen around, but I use the high setting a lot over garage entries and uneven surfaces generally.
    Before, the high setting was useless as it seemed to be very close to full height with no give in the suspension at all.
    Keep up the good work.
    David.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Caisson View Post
    Yes get a lexia online asap. They are a bit tricky to installon a computer but lots of advise on Aussiefrogs and the instructions must be strictly adhered to. Lexia is an essential tool for Xantia and later cars.
    Would an adapter cable and OBD2 reader be adequate or is Cam going to need something like this?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-d1ivfk2S4
    And will he be have to run Diagbox on XP/Vista?

  22. #97
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Ive just found this and hes keen to sell it for $300 with the Laptop.

    Good deal? I can pick it up tomorrow

    Cam

  23. #98
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Its your lucky day!
    Get it! Its a bargain if you don't have the frustration and rigmarole involved in getting the software working!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluey View Post
    Would an adapter cable and OBD2 reader be adequate or is Cam going to need something like this?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-d1ivfk2S4
    And will he be have to run Diagbox on XP/Vista?
    Doubt that an OBD2 reader would be any good. Before I got my lexia none of the local mechanics could diagnose my Xantia even though some had PSA keys and leads. Diagbox-Lexia needs a windows 32 bit operating system
    Definately won't work with the later 64 bit. I don't know if it works on Vista.
    They specify XP, but mine works well on windows 7. 32 bit.
    I found a not very old laptop that wasn't being used, and got a computer technician the delete everything on it and install windows 7. 32 bit.
    My brother volunteered to install the Diagbox - Lexia. It took him ages, but he eventually got it to work.
    It takes practice to use but I am finding it very useful now.

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