Thoughts on this
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Thread: Thoughts on this

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Thoughts on this

    Looking at getting a 2007 C5 Turbo Diesel SX HDi auto my06, with all books on it with 129xxx on it and timing belt changed at 100k. Wondering what i should be looking at for issues with the car? Coolant was replaced also with the timing belt.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    Put a few more dollars aside and get an x7


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    Wot 'e sed.

    One more year younger - 2008, and you can buy an X7 model, much better design and assembly. Same suspension comfort, and with the very reliable 2.0 HDI engine coupled to a Japanese AM6 transmission.

    X7s continued, with engine updates, to the recent end of the model.

  4. #4
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    i probably donít have the cash behind me to go up that extra year to get the younger and newer model, iím asking about this due to a fantastic deal with the car! thatís why iím asking specifically about the details of that particular model sorry!

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    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    They are ok just getting on a bit make sure no squeaks from rear end trailing arms can get expensive starting to see a few struts going at the front as well with time not mileage get a dealer to check the faults log for faults that may have been cleared before sale


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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    This one should have the 6 speed auto - AM6. Just check all the changes are smooth and check that the lock-up is work properly by using the manual position on the gear lever to lock the engine speed to road speed in 3,4,5 and 6th.

    Cheers, Ken

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    X7 is a newer design, but they all have their possible issues. The earlier model is good if you like the hatch design, but the suspension is less sophisticated and the ride differs. If you are looking a 2007 HDI, then check the VIN to know if it is a 2.0 (RHR) or a 2.2 (4HS) HDi. It should be a 6 speed, but the earlier 4 speed 2.2 looks almost the same and people do not always know what they are selling. The VIN is the safest way to identify these cars.

    Aside from the obvious cosmetics and used car issues, you should check forr creaking rear arm bearings, slipping auto (often 2>3 flare) and hydraulic leaks from the steering and front suspension piping.

    For some homework, start here and work your way around some of the linked threads:
    C5 info wanted

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    itís a RHR, if the dealer himself isnít offering a roadworthy and is asking for the buyer to put the money out of their pocket to get t back on the road, is there anything sneaky they could be hiding in there and anything i can do to suss it out other than what has been suggested. Also does anyone know what the cost is to put the car back on the road as a ďstamp dutyĒ. To check the gear changes smoothly i can just go for a drive in it and change gears manually correct?

    Thanks in advance guys

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    A roadworthy inspection costs the dealer little, so one would expect something expensive or unknown is lurking. Transmission solenoids worn perhaps (jerky changes)? Suspension pump? The RHR motor is generally reliable - 100 kW, 320 Nm. A good AM6 gearbox is extremely smooth.

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    A roadworthy inspection costs the dealer little, so one would expect something expensive or unknown is lurking. Transmission solenoids worn perhaps (jerky changes)? Suspension pump? The RHR motor is generally reliable - 100 kW, 320 Nm. A good AM6 gearbox is extremely smooth.
    In Victoria I wouldn't have thought that trans gear change issues or a suspension pump would be considered roadworthy items.

    Is NSW RWC regime that anal ?

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    would it be worth asking him to obtain the rwc since heís at a dealership and offer more than the price quoted for the car without it. I wouldnít know about NSW, i want to bring it to a inspection before i buy it. Probably just say sold pending results of rwc check and on road costs of the vehicle

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3XZACT View Post
    would it be worth asking him to obtain the rwc since he’s at a dealership and offer more than the price quoted for the car without it. I wouldn’t know about NSW, i want to bring it to a inspection before i buy it. Probably just say sold pending results of rwc check and on road costs of the vehicle
    Selling without a Rwc may be a way of selling "as is" without the need for statutory warranty.

    I'd be suspicious and err on the side of caution.

    It not like it is a rare hard to get vehicle. You should be spoilt for choice on Carsales.

  13. #13
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    I found especially on carsales a lot of the option are coming without the roady, and if they do they think itís worth 10g more

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Then be very suspicious of the dealer vehicle.

    Dealers generally aren't generous benefactors.

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    get a toyota or a subaru and you won't have to spend your life fixing stuff and trying to find someone who knows the intricacies of notoriously ghastly unreliable modern french cars..... and that is coming from someone with four old Citroens in the shed.....

  16. #16
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    iíll have a chat with him and see if heís going to get the rwc for me and iíll put in more money for it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Then be very suspicious of the dealer vehicle.

    Dealers generally aren't generous benefactors.
    G'day,
    I agree. Stay away from it, you could end up spending more money than if you bought a later model.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    In Victoria I wouldn't have thought that trans gear change issues or a suspension pump would be considered roadworthy items.

    Is NSW RWC regime that anal ?
    If the suspension pump doesn't work, the car can't be driven safely. (Well it 'can', but will do some damage and likely be defected for being too low by plod) They do sink and need the pump to lift up. Running on the bump stops might not constitute 'roadworthy'. In NSW it's called an eSafety check or 'Pink Slip' if going the paper route.

    ....................

    Are we looking at a car in NSW being bought by a Victorian? What use is a 'RWC' in that case? It would need to be inspected in Victoria anyway, so a NSW inspection would only tell you that it meets basic standards enough to be safely driven. There would be just as much choice in Victoria, so is it worth the bother? You can drive on a permit from NSW to Vic and self-certify that it's safe to do so without an inspection. If you are unsure or have no idea, get a workshop to check it. If it's out of NSW rego and has no plates on it, you would probably take it to Vic and pay the stamp duty there when you establish the rego in Vic. If it's still on NSW plates and the registration hasn't been cancelled, regardless of whether you have an eSafety, you will be expected to pay NSW stamp duty on the transfer of title in NSW. That may be what was being stated re the stamp duty.
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  19. #19
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    there has nothing about NSW everything about the car is and always will be in victoria!

    Ill see how it goes with the dealer if i get some honesty out of him and if i get him to do all the nitty gritty it would be great.

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    Was this the one: https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/d...15119800/?Cr=1 ?

    If so, it looks like it's due for a new timing belt and water pump so budget on ~$1-$1.5k for that service.

    EDIT - a much better deal from the same dealer, even though it's $5.5k more: https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/d...15005548/?Cr=0 - it has RWC, includes transfer fees, has another year before the timing belt and water pump are due, under 10 years old (so you'll get statutory warranty by buying from a dealer), and is an X7.
    Last edited by MELso; 15th October 2017 at 10:31 PM.
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  21. #21
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    That black C5 is a very late example with 2009 compliance. It evidently sat around unsold in the importer's holding yard for a long time, probably because it was black. The last of that model had that contrasting grey carpet with the light trim.

    The X7 at 160K may shortly be due for the Eolys additive if not done already. Check the cost. It looks like it's had an Armorall bath as the dash materials were never that shiny - yuk.

    You'd expect a dealer warranty on the black car (by build date, so buy in October!), but not the X7 as that's just crept over 160K.
    Last edited by David S; 16th October 2017 at 12:27 AM.

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