ball joints - '74 DS
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Thread: ball joints - '74 DS

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default ball joints - '74 DS

    - Hi

    It looks like the front ball joints on my '74 DS require attention - the lowers in particular.

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    1. I know it's possible to reshim these; is that usually a reasonable proposition? Or should I look at new?
    2. the factory manual is very specific that because of "the high the tightening torque, it is not possible to refit the ball joint on the vehicle without destroying the pivot arm."

    How much of a pain is it to remove the front hub? And is a rattle gun a suitable modern, on-vehicle alternative to replacing the ball joints in-situ?

    Thanks - Nigel

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    here's a good vidto get you started-

    https://youtu.be/VV1PYA9xAns
    Don B. Cilly likes this.

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    - thanks Steven

    The separation technique in the video is pretty brutal, but it clearly worked!

    Can anyone offer some experience on the ball joint removal/ refurbishment process? And on shimming vs. replacement?

    - Nigel

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Removal of the upper and lower ball pins from the swivel housing requires the use of special extractors. Each extractor has a hexagon for a large spanner to turn the tool. The extractor fits over the ball pin and is restrained from slipping off by the ball pin nut, which is to be refitted on the ball pin. The extractor has a number of solid pins on the working face that engage in corresponding drillings or slots ( depending on whether the upper or lower joint is being operated on). Before one can begin removal the locking swaging must be cleared from the threads of the joint so that the retaining rings can be turned. This is very important as failure to do so will result in damaged threads rendering the swivel unusable. Refer to the work shop manual to gain a clearer concept of the nature of these special tools. I made my own well over twenty years ago but have passed them on once the car was sold.
    Cheers Gerry

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger
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    The video shows only how to remove and refit the front knuckle. I guess they've found a better or exchange knuckle, so do not show the process of changing the ball joints. The fork is a rough way to separate joints and almost always ruins the boot. Banging on the housing to release the taper can bruise the metal too and you see that when they released the steering rod taper. You really want to try a better type of tool than a fork if you plan to refit any of these joints.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    one of the Dutch suppliers had the correct tools but last time I checked were out of stock. Tricky one.
    Purchase a whole exchange unit or such?
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 9th October 2017 at 12:07 AM.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    I recently had success using a Toledo 311281 tie rod and pitman arm puller on the SM ball joints after another cheaper unit failed but I did use some hammer shock treatment as well.

    Cheers, Ken

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