Old Suspension / New Suspension 2CV AZ
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Old Suspension / New Suspension 2CV AZ

    Hi,

    I have a 1958 2CV. The suspension is unserviceable.

    I would like to replace the suspension.

    There is a physical difference between the old suspension and the new suspension. The old suspension has shorter springs, longer tie rods, shorter pot. I think the new suspension pots will fit between the chassis mount and I am aware of longer eyelets to compensate for the shorter tie rods.

    A new suspension pot (x2) is easy to source and the components are new. I can also try to source an old pot (x2) which will be considerably more expensive but it will "just work".

    Would anyone be able to advise if I should purchase a new suspension pot for the car (and hope that it works) or should I try to find an old one and at least be certain it fits. I am not too concerned about keeping the car truly original.

    Any advice on the way forward
    • Old/new
    • What not to do
    • Better / worse suspension suppliers
    • Etc


    is appreciated.

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    Thank you for any advice.

    Regards,

    Daniel.

  2. #2
    JBN
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    Default

    What dampers does you 1958 car have? The very early ones used batteurs, which were inertial dampers. Later cars used normal piston dampers. There were some that used batteurs on the front in conjunction with piston dampers all round. One of my cars has that configuration.

    I would probably replace your suspension with new for the reasons you have mentioned.

    John

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Thanks John.

    I only have batteurs on the car. No piston dampers. There should be one rubber bump stop ant one end and two at the other of the pot. I only have one each end with an obvious gap at one end.

    My main concern is will the new suspension pots fit and work.

    Regards,

    Daniel.

  4. #4
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    Daniel,
    the later (longer) suspension canisters are a direct replacement for your 'oldtimer' ones, since the spacing between the inner faces of the end-fitting tubes has been 530mm from very early on.
    The distance between the knife edges on front and rear suspension arms hasn't changed either, so you should have no need for longer end-pieces/shackles.
    .
    Seems as though they're quite fond of 'bush engineering' in France, since the shorter suspension canisters on these mortal remains have only one 'flexible buffer' at each end of its canisters, with the slack at the front ends, where there should be a pair of buffers, taken up by short lengths of steel tube.
    .
    Link to the discussion on the Forum 2CV - Legende site...
    De quelle année est cette 2cv? - http://forum.2cv-legende.com
    .





    Quote Originally Posted by Tricon View Post
    Thanks John.

    I only have batteurs on the car. No piston dampers. There should be one rubber bump stop ant one end and two at the other of the pot. I only have one each end with an obvious gap at one end.

    My main concern is will the new suspension pots fit and work.

    Regards,

    Daniel.
    Last edited by Ken H; 8th October 2017 at 09:15 AM.

  5. #5
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    p.s. @ Daniel.
    Forgot to mention that difference in length of 'early' and 'later' style of tie rod ends/shackles, which is almost 20mm.
    There's usually enough spare thread available on the tie rods to cope with that difference, mind you.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/301328...etaken-friend/

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    Thank you very much for your reply, Ken.

    I have an incomplete Slough Guide which was useful in my understanding of the problem. I required more information and you have provided it. I found a complete Slough guide and more manuals here:

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/su2vakktkj6oei6/jF3qLo415w


    The references above assisted me understand the problem. I was aware that I was missing a bump stop however as my chassis is different to a new chassis, I needed to know what the differences were

    Old Suspension / New Suspension 2CV AZ-suspension_2.jpg

    My pots were fabricated here along with two of the springs. I have now discovered that the springs in the pots must counteract each other. One clockwise and the other anti-clockwise to prevent the pot from rotating.

    From the references, it seems my suspension and pots are close to being correct. The suspension on the other side of the car is far worse (more rust, threads stripped, springs seized and freed with kerosene and a hammer).

    Old Suspension / New Suspension 2CV AZ-spring2.jpg

    The space between my hangers for the suspension is 530mm. I am also glad to know that the knife edge distance has not changed. I can simply purchase a set of new pots and fit them in; they will not be a mistaken purchase.

    One of the tie rods is poor with a lot of corroded thread. While I have read that some reproduction parts are not that good (I have read the discussion on rubber) the new parts are possibly more of a known than an unknown.

    I really appreciate the detail, Ken.

    I like the Hi-Rail 2CV from the 2CV Legend site.

    Cheers,

    Daniel.

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