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Thread: DS doors

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Default DS doors

    It's probably been answered before... not that easy to find.
    Front door on a 21 Pallas.
    2 problems:
    1) The little trim that holds the leather (or whatever it is) cover at the top of the door.
    I tried lifting it. Doesn't look good.
    I tried sliding it. Doesn't either.
    Before doing too much damage there... proper procedure?



    2) The door handles are all painted grey.
    That pin, it doesn't have a hole on the other side.
    How am I supposed to get it out?



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  2. #2
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    I've found something about the door trim on Aussiefrogs before. Hopefully others will confirm the technique:

    You need two fine tipped late end screwdrivers and you gradually (small increments) use them in tandem to get under the edge of the trim and prise it intowards the slot where the glass sat. You will appreciate that you want to be doing this gently and in small, gradual sections so that you don't twist or mark the trim.

    Door handles. I have seen very good article about dismantling them for polishing. I will try and find it. I think the pin was drilled and tapped then pulled out by fixing a bot to the end?

  3. #3
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    Found it:

    Doesn't sound like it's easy.

    I ducked it and bought a report set about 15 years ago. I've yet to fit them....

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    Removing the pin from the handles can be a right pain. The article for the door handles is here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tv0b25gpm...or+handles.pdf

    If you can't remove the pin and take out the leavers the handles can still be polished. Removing them is really only necessary for rechroming them.

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    There is information scrambled throughout the site but I can't find a single thread with the info in one place. . .

    This from Mark (ds21bvh)

    Quote Originally Posted by ds21bvh
    I've been asked a few times how to remove the Pallas stainless trim at the top of the door without damage - you need two fine hardened blade screwdrivers and you walk the two along, one over the over while gently prying the trim off. See the pics...


    . . .and a look over this thread should help
    DS Pallas Upper Door Trim

    Cheers
    Chris
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    Re dismantling the inner door handles. We drilled the pins and pulled the out after tapping in a small bolt. In one respect it eas worth the effort in that the chromeing dont by Winkler and Patrick in Lismore is far superior the the reproduction handles. The disadvantage is the pins are left wir a hole in the end. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to make up new pins. Good luck with it....David.

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    The trim strip is difficult because it's very obvious when it has been damaged. You will very likely bend that stainless strip if you use screwdrivers and are not exceptionally careful. What has worked for me was to remove the furry strip (glass out is best, but maybe ) for access, then start with a pick of very fine screw driver under the end enough to introduce a paint scraper or putty knife that you then work along very carefully with. The paint scraper spreads the load. You do not want to put any bends or indentations in the edge of either the visible strip or the mounting strip as you will have difficulty refitting see them when you clip it back on later. It hinges at the back (or glass side) of the steel base strip and snaps over the inner side of the mounting strip. A bit of a twist can be undone, but bending it like a pretzel means it has become junk.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caisson View Post
    Re dismantling the inner door handles. We drilled the pins and pulled the out after tapping in a small bolt. In one respect it eas worth the effort in that the chromeing dont by Winkler and Patrick in Lismore is far superior the the reproduction handles. The disadvantage is the pins are left wir a hole in the end. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to make up new pins. Good luck with it....David.
    You could alternatively copy the threaded pin design used for the lock tab pin when repairing them if you were keen. Then dismantling for the next chroming job or if you want to change the opener for some reason would be is easy!

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Thank you all.
    Very clear and detailed. I feel quite confident I can do it now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Caisson View Post
    Re dismantling the inner door handles. We drilled the pins and pulled the out after tapping in a small bolt. In one respect it eas worth the effort in that the chromeing dont by Winkler and Patrick in Lismore is far superior the the reproduction handles. The disadvantage is the pins are left wir a hole in the end. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to make up new pins. Good luck with it....David.
    I once asked Len Drew how he re-chromed his handles. He drilled the pins out (and probably pulled them). He found a second, sacrificial set of handles and broke those up just to get at the 'spare' pins.

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Drilling and threading, easy.



    A bit less easy it was to find a 3 mm. screw.
    But I found it. Except... heat, lube, push, pull, turn, bang, hit and threaten... it won't budge.



    So hey. I'll just drill it all out and make a new one.
    Not difficult.

    The paint scraper bit worked perfectly

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    Don isn't there a thread in the end of the door pin? I was looking at dead one the other day sizing it up for usage as a pin in door winder.

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    I've let the pin be for the moment.
    I'll very probably end up drilling all of it, so I guess I won't find out.

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Don isn't there a thread in the end of the door pin? I was looking at dead one the other day sizing it up for usage as a pin in door winder.
    Quote Originally Posted by Don B. Cilly View Post
    I've let the pin be for the moment.
    I'll very probably end up drilling all of it, so I guess I won't find out.
    I've not pulled one apart but looking at the images in the above linked pdf the larger pin is not threaded but has a spline.



    Cheers
    Chris
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DS doors-d-door-handle-pins.jpg  
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    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Member ramonm's Avatar
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    Yet again I am amazed by the awesomeness of this site - where else could you find out about these things and save wrecked trims and smashed door handles, let alone hours of frustration !?!
    A special thanks to Chris for finding the pics and posts.

    Good luck Don with the interior of the DS21.

    cheers

    Ramon
    1974 DS23 ie Pallas 5 speed

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Don isn't there a thread in the end of the door pin? I was looking at dead one the other day sizing it up for usage as a pin in door winder.
    For the pin for the window winder, you can simply use a nail of the right diameter with the head and tail removed. It does a very simple job and in normal use is stopped from falling out because the spring pushes the handle finishing plate against the handle - blocking the ends where the pin/ nail slides in.
    Last edited by Budge; 8th October 2017 at 01:07 AM.

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    I reckon you need a bigger thicker flat than the washer to get some leverage happening Don. Sorry about confusion with thread comment, I knew the little bugger went somewhere!

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Yeah, well, the washer and screwdrivers were just to get its attention... er... get a feel for it.
    Imagine that spline though, steel (or bronze?), 45 years in an aluminium hole.
    Stronger than welding that.

    And consider that (judging from the rust) this car came from the dampest town in France (Pluvieuse-sur-Mer)...
    ...so I did make some sort of extractor thing, but I had drilled and threaded 3 mm. only, so the screw broke.
    At an angle, which makes it difficult to re-drill it.

    So I just left it for the moment, I do have lots of other things to do on the car

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Now, I also have the window handles painted "London fog" grey.
    If i wanted to re-chrome them (I do)... is there a way to remove the little black knob on them, or would I have to re-chrome that too?

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    I assume you have the diecast winders, but there are other versions. I'm sure I've seen repro winders on offer. Maybe, buy one and see how the quality compares? Otherwise, you probably need to mill the pressed/peened over part of the knob spindle and then drill it to take a bolt to refit it. That may protrude too far and rub on your trim though.

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Actually, I guess I was simply traumatised by the difficulty of removing the door handle spline.
    But that is 45 years sunk in aluminium, and so pretty much welded.
    The winder knob one, it's 45 years... in plastic.
    Pulls out quite easily.

    Also, I've decided I'm not going to-re-chrome anything.
    I scraped the paint off with a knife, polished it, looks really good.
    Sure, it's got a few pitting holes. So what. It's 45 years old. Perfect

    Painted vs. polished:

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    How about gold anodising? Go on, you know you want to

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Not. On Your. Nelly

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don B. Cilly View Post

    The paint scraper bit worked perfectly


    Now, what's the trick to put it back on?

  25. #25
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    The two strips need to be located so you engage the stainless strip to the plated base strip nearest the glass and then hinge it over to snap over the edge. Fingers should be enough, not a hammer as that will bend it and possibly distort the base strip. The plated base strip is obviously screwed on and you have to make sure you do not over tighten it (will bend) or leave the screw heads (posidriv) proud. You want to fit this strip before fitting the furry strip as it gets in the way. Dress up any kinks or burrs in the edges of both strips before trying to refit.
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