DSpecial front hubs
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Thread: DSpecial front hubs

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DSpecial front hubs

    Excuse me in advance for ignorance displayed...

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    I have done quite a bit of work on the front drive and suspension systems over the past year or so - rebuilt steering rack, hydraulic pump and suspension spheres, new drive shafts (old ones were worn), rebuilt height corrector, rebuilt hydraulic and hand brake callipers with new brake pads, new tyres etc.

    The car tracks, steers and rides really nicely now - certainly much tighter and better than before. But there is still an annoying rattle over corrugations and smaller ruts and potholes.

    I am assuming that this is likely to be the ball joints on the front hub. How can I best check whether or not they are worn? What should I be looking for? Is it as simple as checking for any play in the swivel arms? And are there other possible causes?

    Any advice gratefully received...

    AM
    Last edited by ajaxvte; 5th September 2017 at 10:56 PM.

  2. #2
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    Have you changed the roll bar plastic bushes?
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    Agreed. It is most likely the front roll bar bushings DX 435-111 and -111A
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    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 11BL; 61DS19 LHM (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM 2.7EFI; 73SM 3.0 (other son's); 74 Maserati Merak

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    I would not be so sure it's the anti roll bar bushes. I have replaced these several times and not fixed the rattle even though they had obvious wear. In my experience the rattle is most likely in the bottom ball joints. ( or top) It's not easy to diagnose. If you can get under the car with hydralic pressure released and push up the arms either by hand or a hammer some play will be revealed. The ball joints need to have no play at all to be quiet. The ball joints are adjustable with shims, but don't wast you time. Get new ones because as they wear, they lose the sperical shape. The rattle soon returns.
    A less likely possibility that I have had is one of the anti roll torsion bar anti rattle springs fall off the chassis. David

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    Thanks to all. Much appreciated. Will check both out.

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    As an update, my mechanic says it is a worn upper arm (connecting the hub to the bracket), rather than the top ball joint, that is causing the rattling sound at low speed/over corrugations etc. He recommends replacing it. Does this make sense? I would have though that the joint would be designed to wear before the arm... And if it does make sense, where would I obtain one? (not readily available on the usual websites etc).

  7. #7
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    does the mechanic mean the bearings in the upper bracket?

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    Hi Am , I have recently done that job on my mate's SM, not too difficult but much easier on a 2 Post Hoist. The upper one wears most as it takes most of the load. I managed to find one on a wrecked D Spec. (The lower one on the opposite side).I suspect that there are quite a few cars like yours driving around regardless.
    Woody

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    Probably a good time to remind everyone that a good preventative here is to drill and tap the tubes that hold the arm bearings about half way up, fill the tubes up to the hole with gear oil, then thread a plug into the hole you made. It will keep the tapered bearings from rusting and wearing...
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    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 11BL; 61DS19 LHM (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM 2.7EFI; 73SM 3.0 (other son's); 74 Maserati Merak

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    If the seals aren’t shot already John!

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    It's a shame they didn't design the arms to take a cup that can be replaced. It's machined into the arm and then hardened, but has the disadvantage of needing to replace the whole arm when it's worn. It's a design issue with taper bearings turning back and forward a few degrees and eventually wearing grooves in the 'cup' surface. The only other way out would be to grind (it will be too hard to turn) down enough to take a cup, but that introduces questions about whether the arm's strength would be compromised. Good used does seem to be the best option if you can find one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    If the seals aren’t shot already John!
    Indeed. Oil in the tubes is a prevention and not a fix.

    FWIW, Citrotech in the Netherlands did have re-manufactured units at one time. Perhaps they will again some day.
    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 11BL; 61DS19 LHM (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM 2.7EFI; 73SM 3.0 (other son's); 74 Maserati Merak

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajaxvte View Post
    As an update, my mechanic says it is a worn upper arm (connecting the hub to the bracket), rather than the top ball joint, that is causing the rattling sound at low speed/over corrugations etc. He recommends replacing it. Does this make sense? I would have though that the joint would be designed to wear before the arm... And if it does make sense, where would I obtain one? (not readily available on the usual websites etc).
    From my experience ( way back in the last century, and in the humid wet tropics ) it is the lower arm that wears more, and the front rather than the rear bearing surface .... maybe because of its dirtier ( wetter ? ) working environment. The advice about lubricating the assembly is good but the front seal and pushed in rear cop have their limits. Moons ago I fitted grease nipples and proceeded to "fill "er up" only succeeding to dislodge .. either the seal but more likely the rear metal cup.
    Read David's comment re wear because of only small angle movements. I recall someone turned up brass bushes to replace the entire bearing assembly (for a GS ???)... but that is a needle bearing roller rather than the taper rollers of a D. Moly grease during reassembly would be my choice too.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fritzelhund View Post
    From my experience ( way back in the last century, and in the humid wet tropics ) it is the lower arm that wears more, and the front rather than the rear bearing surface .... maybe because of its dirtier ( wetter ? ) working environment. The advice about lubricating the assembly is good but the front seal and pushed in rear cop have their limits. Moons ago I fitted grease nipples and proceeded to "fill "er up" only succeeding to dislodge .. either the seal but more likely the rear metal cup.
    Read David's comment re wear because of only small angle movements. I recall someone turned up brass bushes to replace the entire bearing assembly (for a GS ???)... but that is a needle bearing roller rather than the taper rollers of a D. Moly grease during reassembly would be my choice too.
    Indeed, you don't want to use a grease gun for this very reason. Pour in oil instead...
    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 11BL; 61DS19 LHM (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM 2.7EFI; 73SM 3.0 (other son's); 74 Maserati Merak

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