lucky dyane
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 6 of 6
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By JBN

Thread: lucky dyane

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! andrewj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Margate
    Posts
    385

    Default lucky dyane

    Hi Everyone,
    Just had a near miss with Dyane on the weekend.

    We went up to Great Lakes on a CCCT run and after rolling the car back into the shed, noticed a smell of petrol from the front of the car. (Iím in the habit of rolling rather than driving into the shed to avoid exhaust fumes )
    On popping the bonnet I found the top of the carby wet with fuel, and on closer inspection, found that the brass tube that connects the fuel line to the carby was completely loose. The only thing that stopped it popping out was the fuel filter zip tied to the air filter.

    Advertisement


    lucky dyane-08_08_2017_15_47_office_lens%5B1%5D.jpglucky dyane-08_08_2017_15_46_office_lens%5B1%5D.jpg


    The brass tube had not just worked out, but was really loose, flopping around in the hole, with powered glue falling out.On closer inspection it appears that it has been roughed up and glued back in at some point with some kind of black glue which is now brittle.

    The car has done over 30,000 km over the last few years including the raid with no sign of issues, and I stick my head under bonnet regularly. So it appears that the glue went from being solid to disintegrating in a very short period of time. Although the car came with detailed maintenance notes over the last 20 years or so, there is not mention of the repair. Perhaps it is just that the glue has a limited life when in contact with petrol?
    Looking at the rubber hose going it, it is very stiff and heavy, and I canít help but think it hasnít help the situation.

    The amount of metal around the hole is minimal, so tapping a thread feels risky.
    What I am thinking to do is
    ∑ Cut a brass shim to create a friction fit into the carby body
    ∑ Smear with epoxy to help hold it in and seal it (just ordered some loctite stuff)
    ∑ Replace the rubber hose with orginal style cotton coated rubber to reduce vibration loading.
    The other option I thought of is to find someone to turn up an oversize brass tube.


    I am guessing I am not the first to have this problem. Any suggestions/ideas much appreciated.
    Cheers,
    Andrew

    Driving - '90 XM, '85 CX IE Auto, 406 Coupe, 405 srdt wagon, '78 dyane, Resting (or Rusting): '73 Birotor '82 CX Presitige, '81 CX Break IE, GS X2, GS1015 Wagon, GS 1300 5sp Wagon, '76 GS 1220 Wagon, '75 GS Wagon, '58 2CV, '58 Vauxhall Velox

  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,797

    Default

    Near miss indeed. I think many of us have been there with these Solex carburettors. There's a post or two in the Renault area I'm sure. Personally I have knurled the brass tube by rolling the edge of a file over it diagonally, roughed up the socket with coarse wet and dry paper and then used a smear of Araldite. The knurling increases the OD of the tube which is good. "Simon" contributed last time with the ID of one particular Loctite product that he favours over epoxy resin - you could PM him and ask. I've tapped threads into fuel pumps for the same problem.

    Good luck.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,927

    Default

    Loctite applied and then tap in with a hammer sorted out my GS carby years ago.

    Cheers, Ken W

  4. #4
    JBN
    JBN is offline
    1000+ Posts JBN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,233

    Default

    At the very worst, replica dual throat Solex carburettors are available from Club Cassis and I expect the other European 2CV/Dyane suppliers. I run one on my daily driver 2CV. When you price the cost of a carby overhaul kit and outsource the carby refurbishment to a specialist, it works out about the same, plus you end up with non-leaking brass to white metal areas.

    John
    JohnW likes this.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    North Yorkshire
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Andrew,
    which version of the 26/35 Solex have you got, the earlier 21-24 venturi type or the later 18-26?
    Changeover was around 1979/80, which is the reason for asking, but if you want a replacement lid for the carburettor posting, let me know.
    Ken.
    p.s. Any news on fitting that chassis? I'd have thought that Autumn/Winter down under would be prime time for such fettling...
    p.p.s. I'd avoid those Chinese-made Solex copies. Had a fellow turn up with one, only been on the car a few weeks and he couldn't get a reliable idle. The 'syringe full of petrol' test didn't take long to find that the spindle for the secondary butterfly had more slop in its bore than a 30 year old original Solex.
    Last edited by Ken H; 9th August 2017 at 10:36 AM.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! andrewj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Margate
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Hi Ken,

    Itís the earlier 21-24 (í78 model). Iíve sent you a pm.

    New chassis is still sitting on the floor of the shed awaiting attention. The plan was to spend a quiet winter sorting this out the dyane and getting the orange GS finished off.

    Despite plans to the contrary, Iíve manage to get my self tied up rolling out GW's of large solar power stations in Australia, which means the fleet will be getting minimal attention for a few yearsÖ

    Did I every report back on the exhaust fume issue? It turned out that the brackets on the cross box where poorly aligned. So the exhaust system was putting torque and tension on the heads. In the end I backed everything off including the headbolts and re-tightened from front to back. The cross box brackets then needed filing out to get the bolts into the gearbox. No more problems after 30,000km and a trip to the top of Australia and back

    Cheers,
    Andrew

    Driving - '90 XM, '85 CX IE Auto, 406 Coupe, 405 srdt wagon, '78 dyane, Resting (or Rusting): '73 Birotor '82 CX Presitige, '81 CX Break IE, GS X2, GS1015 Wagon, GS 1300 5sp Wagon, '76 GS 1220 Wagon, '75 GS Wagon, '58 2CV, '58 Vauxhall Velox

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •