Hydraulic return lines - clamp
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Thread: Hydraulic return lines - clamp

  1. #1
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    Default Hydraulic return lines - clamp

    Hello fellow Froggers

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    Needing to replace a return line. I bought a couple a few years ago for my C5 2002. The clamp on the car at the moment I think is the original. But the replacement I have has a simpler setup.
    Makes me wonder if the new clamp is workable.
    Have any of youse had experience with the following clamp? Refer pic. I guess it'll work as long as I can it to fit really tight. Any special tool needed? And guessing that I can't re-use the original owner clamp.
    CheersHydraulic return lines - clamp-1500887581416.jpg

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    Ha!
    Figured it out! All good.



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    Fellow Frogger! dimistyle's Avatar
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    What was the result as I have to replace one of the low pressure hoses that's started to perish and had factory clamps. I guess I'll work it out at the time but nice to know yours worked out

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    Hi dimistyle,

    You'd better be careful as you might be taking advice from the uninformed! But I'm always wanting to collect as much info and "smarts" as I can before doing the most rudimentary of jobs.... As do not wish for a simple task to become Biga than Texas.

    Anyhow my original question was how new clamp worked and what tool to use. Especially given existing clamp looked different - picture attached. Looks like the new clamp is a one-use only where you tighten it by crimping the jutt-out bit. See pic which includes what I've guessed is the tool for the job. Happy for any AFers to tell me otherwise .... So that we at least reduce the "learn by mistake" process.
    I also guess than the existing clamp is possibly re-usable. Is that right (question to the AF diaspora).

    Also as a side, I don't have much leaking if any at all. So lucky there - no LDS puddles. The evidence however in and around the strut is significant. Does this mean that there isn't as much flow out of the strut as there should be? However there doesn't appear to be any evidence of incorrect strut function
    .. in other words, the front rises and falls as it always has.

    Some tips / feedback from the AF experience base would be appreciated by dimistyle and me.
    Cheers




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    Greg likes this.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Greg's Avatar
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    Hi Guys,

    The style of latching is called Clic R (?), and it's so easy with a good set of Clic R pliers, but almost impossible with out them......Without, you generally end up destroying the clamp.

    There are also good pliers and bad ones. The ones in the previous pics look good!

    Most of the clamps on late cars are Clic R, and the radiator clamps that have the two opposing tabs that need to be pressed together can be removed and refitted with the same pliers.

    best regards,

    Greg
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  7. #7
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    Once you round off the little raised parts of the factory clip, it usually doesn't hold tight. You really need the proper pliers to reuse it. The idea is to fit it by hand on the first hook and then use the pliers to secure it on the second. That applies the desired amount of pressure on the new rubber pad's edges. The same hose and clip is found on Xantia, XM and pre-2008 C5. Evidently it's happy to wallow in both LHM and LDS.

    The alternative is to salvage the steel pad support from an old factory clip and secure it to a larger worm drive hose clamp around the strut. Make it only tight enough to seal without crushing the rubber and blocking the fluid flowing from the strut.

  8. #8
    JBN
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    Black plastic cable ties also do the trick as long as you salvage the steel pad support from the original. At the worst, you lose some LHM/LDS which usually makes its presence known fairly quickly.

    John

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    Many thanks!

    Appreciate your help Greg, David and JBN. Now confident in doing the install of new hose and clamp. Cheers



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