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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Default Wanted- ds23 bare chassis

    Hi,
    I am in the process of parting out a DS23 but before I put the last nail in its coffin I thought I'd ask.
    Does anyone have a non rusted or little rust DS23 chassis for sale?
    I'm in VIC but would travel (within reason).

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocoelguapo View Post
    Hi,
    I am in the process of parting out a DS23 but before I put the last nail in its coffin I thought I'd ask.
    Does anyone have a non rusted or little rust DS23 chassis for sale?
    I'm in VIC but would travel (within reason).
    Where is it rusty that you think it needs replacing. If your thinking the boot .... This can be repaired with sections purchased from "the usual places". Almost all late D's have a rusty boot due to the foam seal (that also leaks water into the floor).
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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    It's there but also the roof. The parcel shelf, wheel arches, the box frame, the front A pillar and other places. My plan was to blast the frame and see but when I saw the box frame rusted I thought that's it. Is there such a thing as a bare frame? Has one ever been sold here before?
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocoelguapo View Post
    It's there but also the roof. The parcel shelf, wheel arches, the box frame, the front A pillar and other places. My plan was to blast the frame and see but when I saw the box frame rusted I thought that's it. Is there such a thing as a bare frame? Has one ever been sold here before?
    You must mean the big box sections you step over to get into the car.... 'C'pillars (including areas of the parcel shelf), roof frame, the rear wheel arches where the guards sit on them .... the boot opening, the boot walls and the boot floor are "standard" DS rusting points. They are a hull design. It would be a monumental job to change a "DS hull".



    imagine all the little brackets, rubbers, gasket etc... you would need.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    True. But I would have all the brackets and what not as I have a complete car in the garage. Wouldn't all that have to come off anyway to soda blast the car?

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocoelguapo View Post
    True. But I would have all the brackets and what not as I have a complete car in the garage. Wouldn't all that have to come off anyway to soda blast the car?
    If you want a project .... Go For It ... keep in mind, a car in pieces will take the space of several intact cars. Take lots of photos as it comes apart.... Any hull you buy will likley not be "bare" either way, so it will be a matter of moving just the motor/gearbox and panels over. I wouldn't sandblast or strip a "good" rust free hull. I'd paint the areas I could get to, and fill everywhere else with oil. But that's just me

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
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    I meant no disrespect mate. I take on all advice but if a hull was to come along the pieces are there. Moreover as you say a hull is unlikely to be bare.

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    and a hull for an auto not a manual would be required.... there are several rusty and smashed auto wrecks for sale at george hamadas deceased estate, contact david gries he is acting for the family in disposing of the wrecks there. but they might be worse than the one you want to fix........

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonf View Post
    and a hull for an auto not a manual would be required.... there are several rusty and smashed auto wrecks for sale at george hamadas deceased estate, contact david gries he is acting for the family in disposing of the wrecks there. but they might be worse than the one you want to fix........
    Hi Jon
    I thought there was no difference. BVM BVH or BVA.
    What makes a shell an automatic one...?
    Many thanks
    Mark...

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    I'd thought they were the same shell, but with different bolt on bits and possibly some differences in those captive nuts you find fitted in various holes around the scuttle? It's not really that hard to swap over all the little parts to a bare shell as it's really a large mechanical jigsaw puzzle. The areas I initially thought might be a little daunting in such a swap were the piping inside the sills and the back end, but in reality, they are no more difficult than pulling the same sort of parts apart up front. With an increasing selection of repair parts available of the shelf, it's a lot easier, if not necessarily cheaper, than it once was to restore one of these cars. For example, if you are paying a pro, buying a new rear wheelarch is probably cost-effective compared to having that tradesperson repair one with rust in several areas. DIY is a different balance of values, but it depends on ability vs time and the relative level of poverty of the owner.

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    Note : little issue of reinforcing of the H frame to support a 23.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cocoelguapo View Post
    It's there but also the roof. The parcel shelf, wheel arches, the box frame, the front A pillar and other places. My plan was to blast the frame and see but when I saw the box frame rusted I thought that's it. Is there such a thing as a bare frame? Has one ever been sold here before?

    My frame has just undergone the same repairs as you have listed. I did buy repro inner guards of which the right hand side needed to be fettled a little but did come with all the bits of metal that are needed. This worked out to be the same price overall as buying the individual bits (bumper holders etc). My parcel shelf (known as a ‘hat rack’ by my supplier) was remanufactured by my beater. I also had to replace the rear most panel (purchased repro), Z panel and boot floor which were fabricated as one piece to remove future potential seam issues. Also the elephant ears are repro.

    C-pillars and flashings are now repro. The tops of the A-pillars were they join the roof cantrail needed work and the door rubber holders have been replaced. I was very lucky in that the main spars had only one small rust area that got sectioned out and are otherwise in very good nick.

    All fabricated metal is 1.2mm steel and is much meatier and stiffer than the original or repro product.

    Do you have any photos of the rusted box frame?
    DS23 Pallas BVM Vert Argente - in ground up restoration, soon to be BVH.
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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    I hope the photo comes through

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    There's a DS left hand drive on Carsales for $10k that looks to have a great body
    If it checks out I would buy it and swap your bits onto it.
    Just a suggestion
    Glenn


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    The problem with that is my money is tied in this one and by the time I get the money together for the other it'll be long gone.

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    Hello, if repairing your rusty one is, as you said, too much for you, then I can't see how you will be any better off buying an unknown hull. They are all at least 40 years old and were never properly rustproofed.
    Me? I'd sell the rusty one as one lump and then buy a decent one. There will be plenty to do to keep you amused, you may even be able to spend time driving it. Otherwise you can look forward to years of frustration and expense, finally getting pissed off with it and selling the whole lot for peanuts.
    Let some other mug (sorry, enthusiast like me) do all the hard work and expense.
    And don't worry, there will always be another one for sale
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    OK,

    I sold a D special frame for $1,000 a few years ago, There is no difference between a D special, and a DS23 auto frame, well not that I'm aware of?

    What would I know?

    If so tell me?

    best regards,

    Greg
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    Fellow Frogger! Greg's Avatar
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    cocoelguapo,

    PM me, and I'll see what I can find for you to repair you chassis?

    There is so much available now to repair everything,.

    I thing I a can put you in the right direction?

    best regards,

    Greg

    best regards,

    Greg
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    We Had:
    1930C6F, '73 GS1220 wagon X 2, '75 G special, '75 GS panel van, '74 GS Birotor, '82 GSA panel van with factory AC, '85 CX25GTI BVM, 2002 C5 V6, 2006, C5 S2 HDI, '86 BX19GT, '72 DS21 BVM, '55 15/6H, '54 Lt 15,'73 Dyane, '82 Visa Super X, with Chrono Mecs & factory AC, 1972 SM.

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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, if repairing your rusty one is, as you said, too much for you, then I can't see how you will be any better off buying an unknown hull. They are all at least 40 years old and were never properly rustproofed.
    Me? I'd sell the rusty one as one lump and then buy a decent one. There will be plenty to do to keep you amused, you may even be able to spend time driving it. Otherwise you can look forward to years of frustration and expense, finally getting pissed off with it and selling the whole lot for peanuts.
    Let some other mug (sorry, enthusiast like me) do all the hard work and expense.
    And don't worry, there will always be another one for sale
    LOL.(Un)fortunately I am not one to pass on problems to others even though some pass them onto me. I am all for selling it as a whole if someone can use parts off it or is willing to restore. I am truly torn on this one, I think Iíll part it out and it can be used to keep others on the road and then catch myself thinking itís such a shame to let a DS23 Pallas be dismantled.
    I finally found a way to post photos so Iíll attach them.Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0020.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0021.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0022.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0023.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0024.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0025.jpgWanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0026.jpg

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    Do you think it's worth while? Did you see the photos??
    If I had 20K to spend on the body alone then I wouldn't fret it but unfortunately I don't. 25 to 30k was my entire budget. I thought I'd get one and do it up as money permits but the chief financial officer, read wife, has set a budget for whatever car I decide to buy. In all honesty I always wanted a mustang but I love the DS and therefore when this one came up I jumped on it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0020.jpg   Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0021.jpg   Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0022.jpg   Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0023.jpg   Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0024.jpg   Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0025.jpg  

    Wanted- ds23 bare chassis-dsc_0026.jpg  

  21. #21
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    Hi,
    It looks very poor in the photos, strange that the A and B pillars have lost their paint and are covered in surface rust. Did it live beside(in) the sea at some stage?
    Try to sell it as one lot and move on would be my tuppence worth!

    Cheers,
    Ed


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    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Yeah it appears to have been used as an anchor ⚓

  23. #23
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    To tear apart the Canberra carsales advertised LHD D to make up a 23 seems highly illogical captain. The 23 needs a huge amount of work but bringing into the equation a decent car ro dismantle and rebuild it into another spec equals massive headache I would have thought. And I did!

    Someone with a 23 could use yours as a potential parts car, especially engine and gear box.

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    Fellow Frogger! garyk's Avatar
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    Many years a go I had a lovely, re-trimmed DS23 Pallas.... (new interior, excellent paint, etc)
    but the body (chassis) had a lot of rust.

    A Citroen guy had a D Special (from memory) stripped down chassis in good oder.
    He swapped the entire car over.

    It certainly is do-able, and from memory, the chassis was an early one and the DS23 a 1974.
    The earlier chasses are reputedly less prone to rust.
    Once upon a time:


    Many R4s (incl. fourgonnette), R5LS, R16TS.


    GS 1015, 1220, sedans and wagons.
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    And now:

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  25. #25
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    earlier ones that I've seen have been very rusty. They rust worst than the later cars IMO ( except the upper boot area and bit lid as they didn't have the sponge seal) That car looks very poor. For the front guards to be rusty across the top, I imagine the rest of them is beyond economical repair (usually "rusty" guards will have rust under the headlights, and in the bottom corners ... early 1st./2nd nose cars will rust around the arch).... those are very, very rusty though. The hull is probably one of the worst ones I've seen (it's similar to a parts car I have here that has broken it's belly). If the doors are rusty in the same way as the front guards. I'd imagine they are beyond economical repair too. Is the bonnet corroded away around the edges where the bonnet panel folds over the frame

    Unless you have serious sentimental attachments to that car, the best money you could spend is parking it in your backyard and treat it as a parts car and learning experience on buying old cars. With a DS you need to take someone that knows how to check them over for rust with you .... Someone that is happy to walk away if they think the car isn't the right car.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Vincenzo likes this.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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