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  1. #26
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    MLP Carburettors, 1/7 Lakeside Ave, Reservoir (03 9462 2288) was able to make up a service kit for my Solex 30PAAI at a most reasonable price. I believe early Jaguars used the same carby.
    Cheers.

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    MLP Carburettors, 1/7 Lakeside Ave, Reservoir (03 9462 2288) was able to make up a service kit for my Solex 30PAAI at a most reasonable price. I believe early Jaguars used the same carby.
    Cheers.
    And some Mercedes, I think 220 from the late fifties
    Cheers Gerry

  3. #28
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I've always had good sucess with just cleaning out old carbies ... so long as the accelerator pump diaphrams are ok .. it'll still work fine when refitted once cleaned (without a gasket kit). Carby gaskets don't usually break when you dismantle them.

    So your saying, you haven't pulled the carby down and blown through every orifice and jet .... and haven't replaced the dizzie cap, pionts, condenser, leads and plugs ??? If you haven't done these very simple basic "normal maintenance" tasks, you will be forever chasing your tail in circles as it's probably a combination of issues with all of the above that is causing it to run poorly. ie: changing any "one thing" is unlikely to fix it IMO.

    You need to get the basics at a known "good point" before you waste hours going around in circles. This motor is no more difficult than a grey fergi or old holden engine. It's a very simple wet liner pushrod engine ... just like a fergi.

    If your TE20 wasn't running we'd be giving the same advice "clean the carby, check the fuel system, replace the ignition components".

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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    MLP Carburettors, 1/7 Lakeside Ave, Reservoir (03 9462 2288) was able to make up a service kit for my Solex 30PAAI at a most reasonable price. I believe early Jaguars used the same carby.
    Cheers.
    Thanks Allen,
    I rang "Mick" and he says he has "some " parts and said he was willing to have a look at the carbi if I get it to him. I will send it registered post and we'll see how we go. The possibility is still there about the fact of there being extractors meaning the carbi doesn't warm up. Some time ago I took the fibre spacer out between the carbi and the intake manifold to get more warmth. I am looking for about a 1/2" aluminium block the size of the carbi base through which a friend could drill holes for hot water to run through. Otherwise I will have to purchase a Big 6 exhaust manifold.

    I think we are inching forward to a solution.

    Just in passing, our Big 15, not this Big 6 is now running on Victorian rego GTF-973. This is the rego number that was on Dad's 1957 Chev Belaire that he imported new, R/H drive from Europe when we came to Australia in '57. Seeing the Big 15 is 1956 it is quite appropriate.

    So thanks again everyone, John

    John.
    Last edited by gilberthenry; 20th March 2017 at 01:44 PM.

  5. #30
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    Attached are two photos of a 20mm alloy spacer block I made up with a vacume pick-up for a brake booster. I ended up not using it because looked like rubbing on the bonnet. I ended up using a bakelite block I made instead that was only 12mm thick. The point being they are not hard to make using the right size hole saw.
    Cheers


    Big 6 closer to smooth running.-img_0237.jpgBig 6 closer to smooth running.-img_0236.jpg

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    Attached are two photos of a 20mm alloy spacer block I made up with a vacume pick-up for a brake booster. I ended up not using it because looked like rubbing on the bonnet. I ended up using a bakelite block I made instead that was only 12mm thick. The point being they are not hard to make using the right size hole saw.
    Cheers


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    Hello Allen,
    I'm looking at your pics and wondering why your brake booster wasn't taken off one of the connections coming off the intake manifold. My brake booster, which I've been wondering whether it is necessary comes off one of these and the other is blocked off.

    ALSO I AM BITING THE BULLET and removing the extractors.
    Could you advise me on where to obtain the better made exhaust manifold which is the dearer one. You have told me before but I am now serious. Also, I thought I could order new studs and bolts and new inlet exhaust manifolds gasket. Also maybe a new heat shield as this one is all asbestos backed. - - - and then I need an exhaust down pipe and maybe the 10" or so flexible exhaust joint. The carbi gets sent today.

    Thanks, John.

  7. #32
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gilberthenry View Post
    Hello Allen,
    I'm looking at your pics and wondering why your brake booster wasn't taken off one of the connections coming off the intake manifold. My brake booster, which I've been wondering whether it is necessary comes off one of these and the other is blocked off.

    ALSO I AM BITING THE BULLET and removing the extractors.
    Could you advise me on where to obtain the better made exhaust manifold which is the dearer one. You have told me before but I am now serious. Also, I thought I could order new studs and bolts and new inlet exhaust manifolds gasket. Also maybe a new heat shield as this one is all asbestos backed. - - - and then I need an exhaust down pipe and maybe the 10" or so flexible exhaust joint. The carbi gets sent today.

    Thanks, John.
    Oh ... A big 6 has a brake booster ....... Have you tried capping this (ie: unplug the hose to it, and block the hose with something). If you have a ruptured diaphragm in that, it would certainly give you enormous running issues!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  8. #33
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    No! A six does not normally have a brake booster. It would have to be fitted as a modification!
    Cheers Gerry

  9. #34
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    A Big 6 does not come with a brake booster, unfortunately, but fitting one is possibly the best modification you can make to the car, the greatest difficulty, if you want to retain the original heater tube, if finding somewhere to mount it.

    John the manifold I purchased was from Classic Automobile Service and the Article Code was 456512 (the B quality, the one to be avoided, bears the same number but finishes with an A). It has been problem free so far. I intended to fit the vacuum pick up as you suggested but when you look at that part of the inlet manifold it only draws from 3 cylinders and it has a very small orifice that would have to be drilled out. I didn't want to do something that could not be reversed. I also believe that the idea of a fuel drain in case of flooding is a good idea.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    A Big 6 does not come with a brake booster, unfortunately, but fitting one is possibly the best modification you can make to the car, the greatest difficulty, if you want to retain the original heater tube, if finding somewhere to mount it.

    John the manifold I purchased was from Classic Automobile Service and the Article Code was 456512 (the B quality, the one to be avoided, bears the same number but finishes with an A). It has been problem free so far. I intended to fit the vacuum pick up as you suggested but when you look at that part of the inlet manifold it only draws from 3 cylinders and it has a very small orifice that would have to be drilled out. I didn't want to do something that could not be reversed. I also believe that the idea of a fuel drain in case of flooding is a good idea.
    Okay, so the number is - - 456512 B fom Classic Automobile Service. I assume it is in Europe. I'll look it up.

    Thanks, John

  11. #36
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    The net address is Classic Automobile Service - Webshop These people used to be CTA and it would appear that they sold to De Graff who carry on as CTA. After a reasonable period of time the original people re-established at the original address as CAS. Obliging and easy to deal with.
    The part No. of what you want is 456512. Avoid the A and there is no B.

  12. #37
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    I found my thread from some time ago. The car has been running quite well for some time now.
    I did put the extractors back on and I pulled off the power booster which I'm happy about.

    There has been a small miss and also it has been running rich and fouling the plugs. Points, plugs, condensor has all been done.
    One big thing that was happening was that the choke was on all the time so since rectifying that the exhaust has been a lot cleaner.
    Slowly I am becoming familiar with the car.
    Where I'm at now is the 2 jets on the right side. I have been adjusting these.
    I need to know which jet runs which 2 cylinders.
    The jet closest to the engine runs 123 or 456 ??
    The jet furtherest from the engine runs 123 or 456 ??

    The right hand pic is the reconditioned carbi showing the 2 jet screws.

    Thanks again for all the advice in the past. This is a fantastic car so I don't mind learning - - kicking and screaming !!!

    John
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big 6 closer to smooth running.-big-6-rh-carbi-fr.jpg   Big 6 closer to smooth running.-big-6-carbi-diaph.jpg   Big 6 closer to smooth running.-big-6-rh-carbi-fr-late.jpg  
    Last edited by gilberthenry; 20th April 2018 at 03:52 PM.

  13. #38
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    Hi John, It does not matter much which idle screw affects which cylinder group. Just concentrate on one screw at a time. Wind it in until the running is lumpy and then back it out until things smooth out. Then do the same with the second idle screw. You can then go back to the first screw and repeat the process until the engine idles as smoothly as you can get it.
    Cheers Gerry

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Hi John, It does not matter much which idle screw affects which cylinder group. Just concentrate on one screw at a time. Wind it in until the running is lumpy and then back it out until things smooth out. Then do the same with the second idle screw. You can then go back to the first screw and repeat the process until the engine idles as smoothly as you can get it.
    Hello Gerry,
    Generally the idling seems good and it is hard to tell by 1/4 turns. The issue is that idylling can be fine but once the car is driving at a decent speed there will be a miss here and there.
    The reason that I would like to know which jet serves which bank of cylinders is that once I know - - - I can pull the plugs off 3 cylinders and if they are a bit sooty I can lean back the correct jet by 1/8th turn at a time. I think 123 cylinders are running richer that 456.

    The car can seem fine when idling but misses a bit when running.

    Ofcourse I'll take what you say on board but it seems that I'm working with very fine adjustments.

    John.

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    There is one way to tell. Start the engine and remove 456 plug leads. Then close one of the screws completely if the car stops then that screw is for 123. The engine will run as rough as guts on only 3 cylinders but should keep running long enough to perform the test!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Hi John
    while I am not familiar with this carby I am very expert with carbys. The idle adjustment will only affect the idle and not much else.
    You said "at a decent speed there will be a miss here and there" and this may be a lean mixture problem which may be cured by a slightly bigger main jet pair. Putting on extractors usually meant a slightly bigger jet was needed in the old days !!!
    What is the main jet size currently, perhaps about 150 then try 155 or 160. I see this place has a range of Solex main jets in steps of 005 by the look.
    https://classiccarbs.com.au/index.ph...nd-Jet-Holders
    OR you might have to carefully drill them yourself with a set of small drills but you will not be happy with that I guess. First find your drills
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 20th April 2018 at 09:30 PM.

  17. #42
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    Just opened a Solex carburettor spec guide put out by Bendix Tecnico. On page 6, under Big 6 1949-55 is the following:
    Solex 30 Paai
    Gasket Set - s.8
    Needle and seat - 51305/7
    Econ diaphragm kit or pump membrane - 2x50552/6/120
    comp.jet (C) air corr (A) power jet valve (P) Big 6 is: 2x51612/280 (A)
    Idle Jet - 2x50797/4/45
    Idle adj. screw - 2x1171
    Idle adj. screw spring - 2x4384

    Every line (above), is a differant column in the spec book.
    All rather technical but it might help
    Michael

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    Hi John. I am wondering whether or not we a are all barking up the wrong tree regarding the miss fire whilst running. I would suggest that the cause may indeed be electrical. Have you replaced the points and condenser? Intermittent condenser break down is very difficult to test for. I had this problem with my CX. I had replaced fuel pump and rebuilt the carby, timed the car accurately etc. But nothing improved until I changed out the points and condenser. Made a huge difference!
    Then that being said I still ended up stranded on the eastern Freeway for three hours many weeks later. The cause of that was a bad load of fuel and a blocked pick up filter in the sender unit!
    Cheers Gerry

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    Just opened a Solex carburettor spec guide put out by Bendix Tecnico. On page 6, under Big 6 1949-55 is the following:
    Solex 30 Paai
    Gasket Set - s.8
    Needle and seat - 51305/7
    Econ diaphragm kit or pump membrane - 2x50552/6/120
    comp.jet (C) air corr (A) power jet valve (P) Big 6 is: 2x51612/280 (A)
    Idle Jet - 2x50797/4/45
    Idle adj. screw - 2x1171
    Idle adj. screw spring - 2x4384

    Every line (above), is a differant column in the spec book.
    All rather technical but it might help
    Michael
    This info should help those in the know. I'll keep thinking.
    So it seems that I have been adjusting idle jets. So why does the car all but stop when I screw an idle jet down ?? I know I'm pretty bad at all this but I don't have any choice but to go on till I get there.

    Gerry, I will do the test to determine which jet serves each bank of 3 - - if that is the case. I need to do these things to learn and figure things out somewhat even if I am barking up the wrong tree.
    I drove the car back from a mechanic last week who supposedly fixed it. On driving home I realized he hadn't given it a good drive as it was still missing. What he did do was - -

    pulled off the brake booster
    made up plug leads that I think are worse than the ones I made up
    found that a thin strap in the distributor was arcing so replaced it with wire along with fixing a bad connection point
    replaced condensor and cleaned points
    6 new plugs

    I thought "a decent workshop" with whizzbang gadgets would find faults but if a mechanic doesn't take a car for a proper test run he isn't worth bothering with - - - - $1100 later

    and Jaahn, I take your advice onboard with the rest.

    I'll keep on the case.

    Thanks, John
    Last edited by gilberthenry; 21st April 2018 at 01:05 PM.

  20. #45
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Another often overlooked source of misfire from carburation is the progression holes that smooth the transition from idle to acceleration. These can be blocked. Look for them around the level of the butterfly plate in the wall of the choke tube!
    JohnW likes this.
    Cheers Gerry

  21. #46
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    The only high speed miss experience I have had with my Solex carby (32 PDIST, single choke, on the Renault) diagnosed possibly as running lean at high revs, the plugs then getting a bit too hot and misfiring a bit. Symptoms were irregular misfiring on acceleration above 4000 rpm, this issue going away if slowing down and running at lower revs. Plugs looked pretty white on checking. We decided it was "definitely carburettor". By then the points/capacitor system had been replaced by Hot Spark. It hasn't repeated, perhaps because I haven't tried to keep up with old Rileys since then.

    I should try a slightly larger main jet and find some more Rileys I suppose.

    Hope the Big 6 issue sorts itself soon.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Another often overlooked source of misfire from carburation is the progression holes that smooth the transition from idle to acceleration. These can be blocked. Look for them around the level of the butterfly plate in the wall of the choke tube!
    This is a reconditioned carbi but still, I'll have a look.

    Does this carbi have main jets ?? Is there such a thing where it only has idle jets. This is like asking - - can the car run without plugs?- - - well, I suppose if it had a diesel.

    This carbi is double throat - - each throat supplying 3 cylinders. The accelarator works a shaft going from one side to the other in the Carbi. When the shaft turns it is turning 2 butterflies simultaneously - - - - each butterfly in each throat. I think this is correct.

    Oh yes, this will add something new.
    With the advance retard knob on the dash - - - on complete retard the car runs at it's best. The more I advance it the more it misses and carries on.
    Because I thought the distributor was not retarding enough I undid the clamp at the base and turned the distributor clockwise about a 1/4" to give the cable "more reach". This is where I'm at.

    John
    Last edited by gilberthenry; 21st April 2018 at 06:22 PM.

  23. #48
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    In the first of the three pictures you posted there is a cast boss bearing a brass screw above the throttle spindle. This is the carrier for the main jet of the nearest throat. If my memory serves me well there is a second main jet for the throat on the other side above the throttle spindle. By the way the screw driver slotted brass screw above the main jet is the idle jet. Make sure that this is clean. They block easily with muck coming through from the tank. The 30 PAAI is like two 32PBIC carbs siamesed together and functions the same way. Only the accelerated idle device ( Bi-Starter/Choke ) is different in principle. Being a plunger device instead of a rotating disc.
    BTW I just consulted the work shop manual 'illustration 120.' My memory serves me well!
    Cheers Gerry

  24. #49
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    Reconditioned carbie but timing might be quite wrong? I'd be getting the timing sorted 100% before messing further with the carbie.
    JohnW

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    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  25. #50
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    I had a carby reconditioned once by a reputable carby specialist. They left the emulsion tube out of the main jet spray bar. The car would not run right ( 32PBIC Carby). So much for reconditioned carbs! Perhaps it should be pulled down and inspected very carefully! 1/4 inch of distributor adjustment of a 6 is a lot of displacement. If it is in the retarded position sure it will run more smoothly but it will also lack power and cook the exhaust manifold. Something you do not want to happen especially if it is the old cast iron manifold. Time the engine using the pin in the bell housing method and leave it at that!
    Cheers Gerry

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