DS last dash type removal question
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Thread: DS last dash type removal question

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default DS last dash type removal question

    I have a DS '75, so obviously last dash style.

    Can anyone tell me if I can remove just the top section (ie the padded part)? I can see there are only 4 securing points that can be accessed via glovebox, radio slot and behind instruments (+ the 2 Phillips head screws on the sides).
    Has anyone successfully done this, or will I need to remove the windscreen also?
    Hoping someone can advise me.
    Cheers
    Glenn


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  2. #2
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drake View Post
    I have a DS '75, so obviously last dash style.

    Can anyone tell me if I can remove just the top section (ie the padded part)? I can see there are only 4 securing points that can be accessed via glovebox, radio slot and behind instruments (+ the 2 Phillips head screws on the sides).
    Has anyone successfully done this, or will I need to remove the windscreen also?
    Hoping someone can advise me.
    Cheers
    Glenn


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    No need to remove the windscreen, but you do need to remove the complete dash. Some light reading. . .

    Citroen DS glove box remove.
    DS 21 dashboard

    These pics show what lurks behind, fixtures fittings etc. . . .
    GreenBlood’s D(very)Special Rejuvenation 2009>

    Cheers
    Chris
    gsowner84 likes this.
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! ds21bvh's Avatar
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    Hi Glenn
    Screen does not need to come out. The only way to separate the top is to remove the whole dash but its easy to do.
    Id remove the steering wheel and binnacle and in addition to removing the nuts you mention look under the dash for the lower fixing screws.
    Cheers
    Mark...

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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
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    Word of warning - there is some bitumen sound-deadener behind the dash. It is sometimes possible for the end vents to be well stuck in place by this. Be careful with this or you may break the end vents.

    With the dash out, now is the time to check / clean / repair the harness connectors that are behind the glovebox liner and normally inaccessible. If they are corroded, they can cause intermittent problems.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! ds21bvh's Avatar
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    Hi David and Glenn,

    I bought this set for cleaning up the connectors - the small one fits inside the female connector with the rubber removed and the 4 leaves spread apart slightly. Worked really well on the connectors for the fuses as well...

    45X Stainless Cup Wire Wheel Polishing Brush Kits Grinder Rotary Tool for Dremel

    Cheers,

    Mark...

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the information.
    I was just being a bit lazy wanting to remove the dash top only as I knew the job would grow exponentially if the whole dash came out.
    So I will get myself in the zone to; add modern thermal insulation on firewall behind dash; clean electricals; replace heater & fresh air hoses; and all the other hidden bits 'n bobs I discover.
    Cheers
    Glenn


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  7. #7
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    So the dash has been out (not such a bad job after all), and is back in again (worse than removing I must say).
    I took the opportunity to remove all the old and now useless insulation and replaced it with a layer of heat insulation and a layer of acoustic insulation. Cleaned up all the elec terminals and put an additional light behind the dash (a spare original green one I had).
    I resprayed the dash, dismantled the clock and cleaned it up, AND re did all the silver highlighting with a pressure sensitive chrome kit I bought.
    Thought I may as well re insulate the firewall and rest of the cabin floor, which of course necessitated all new carpet.
    Anyway I've had my fun tinkering for another while.
    Happy with the results though.



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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Glen

    be interested in where you got the heat and acoustic mats?

    also has it made ant difference to heat and noise?

    Peter

  9. #9
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    The heat and acoustic matting made a marked improvement
    Quite strange driving the car where interior noise is so reduced.
    Don't get me wrong, the DS is not 'modern car' quiet but way better than it was.
    The thermal has also improved markedly, but I have done the following:
    1. Covered the muffler heat shield with modern aluminium embossed shielding
    2. Covered the original aluminium manifold heat shield with same ( do this to the reverse side if you're worried about the non original look).
    3. Put modern heat shielding (about 200mm strip) down the engine bay side of bulkhead on manifold side
    4. Used self adhesive shielding on internal bulkhead including foot wells (as can be seen in pics)

    I also replaced with new the flexible tube between the heater box on both the fan-box and the heater radiator. Gaps and holes in these areas let hot engine bay air into the cabin.

    I bought all the shielding from Car Builders online and it was delivered in a day or 2.

    I recommend doing it.

    Glenn



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  10. #10
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    cool. Is neyes yesss!

    wa wa wee wa!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 15th March 2017 at 08:49 PM.

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