Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?
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Thread: Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Default Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?

    Hi,

    I need to fit a new steering arm to the SM. I have broken the lever separator that has worked well on CX, BX and Xantias. I don't want to get serious about using heat or sledge hammers.

    Cheers,

    Ken

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    Is there something special about it? I always use which ever of these looks easiest:
    Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?-ball-joint-separator.jpgIs there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?-lever-joint-separator.jpg
    The fork takes a blow from a hammer.
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    Fellow Frogger
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    The simple forks almost always ruin the rubber boot. OK if the part is scrap.

    Sorry, I'd confused this with the suspension arm and balljoints. You mean the tools shown for the steering arm here ...

    74 DSpecial Renewal
    Last edited by David S; 24th January 2017 at 07:58 PM.

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    I might use the first fork type if the ball joint boots were already wrecked but these ones seem to be OK. I just broke one of the second type so I don't think this type is really going to meet the challenge. These joints have probably been in place for 30 years.

    If anyone has found an acceptable substitute, give me the model number and where to buy one.

    Cheers, Ken

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Is there something special about it? I always use which ever of these looks easiest:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The fork takes a blow from a hammer.
    If I was doing this job I would pre-load the ball joint with the tool on the right then use two 2Lb hammers and hit the ball joint from each side with both hammers. There is a good chance the taper will come apart easily.
    Regards Col

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    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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    I have the first type (silver) and you are welcome to borrow it. I live at Mansfield, so it's the other side of town if the distance is not a problem for you.
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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Col,
    That would probably work on the outside joint but I have another similar joint on a steering relay that is much more space confined. I will resort to this if I can't borrow or rent the factory tool. I have ordered a beefier version of the RHS unit off ebay.

    Fivedoor,
    Thanks for the offer but I would like to preserve my ball joint boots at this stage.

    Cheers, Ken
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    If you have enough room use the hammer method!!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8c8kt0bd3s

    My modification to this is to hold a lump hammer on the opposite side of the belting to transfer the shock back into the taper.

    Works on Holdens!
    Last edited by Gamma; 25th January 2017 at 09:13 AM. Reason: speelink.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamma View Post
    If you have enough room use the hammer method!!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8c8kt0bd3s

    My modification to this is to hold a lump hammer on the opposite side of the belting to transfer the shock back into the taper.
    Works on Holdens!
    Hi
    That video is OK but ignores the reality of most situations. That is you cannot get a decent swing and hit the required spot properly, or you need to be left handed as well. After you have destroyed a few things around the joint, the boot on that CV joint and perhaps the inner guard, you had better buy some more parts. As for using two hammers together, man you had better be well co-ordinated

    The best way I found, is to have the second type of tool to put pressure on the taper, as much as you can, and then hit the boss with a hammer. Because now you have the remover in the way also, I have a piece of 25mm square steel bar about 180-200 mm long which I use to transfer the blow to the spot. Hold it with a vice grip so there is no risk to your hand. Then if it does not come out after a few good hits, retighten and leave it for 10 minutes and it might have fallen out. If not hit it again and get someone to hold a big hammer/axe/block against the other side to make it more solid. I have a block splitter which I use only for backup if necessary.
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 25th January 2017 at 05:37 PM.

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    I might use the first fork type if the ball joint boots were already wrecked but these ones seem to be OK. I just broke one of the second type so I don't think this type is really going to meet the challenge. These joints have probably been in place for 30 years.

    If anyone has found an acceptable substitute, give me the model number and where to buy one.



















    Cheers, Ken
    Ken If you flip the outside spring retainer off the boot then push the boot off, then fold the boot out of the way inside the fork before using the hammer. A way of saving the boot from damage.
    I have the 3312 type shown in 74 DSpecial Renewal post but the smallest ball joint it will take is 45mm Dia. Probably too big for you but you're welcome if you think it'll work. I also have a couple of different sizes of the fork type.

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Tony,

    That sounds like a better plan. The steering joint is 36 mm od and saw a fork tool at my sons place today so I will get Frog to measure it to see if it is suitable.

    The 3505-T tool must be pretty complicated as it has to work upside down. I will keep you in mind for the 3212-T tool one day though.

    Cheers, Ken
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?-ball-joint-tools.jpg  

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    me too!

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    In all my searchings online, this T&E A1180 looks like the most likely tool that would substitute for a 3212-T suspension joint splitter tool even though it is slightly larger than required. They cost about $300 each.

    Has anyone tried one of these?

    Cheers, Ken
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Is there a 3505-T steering arm ball joint separator in Brisbane for Borrow/Rent?-pitman-arm-puller-t-e-a1180.jpg  

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Icon10 Steering Arm is Off - Woohoo

    I took advantage of the 20% + off sale at Supercheap today to get myself a 1kg lump hammer and a heftier replacement ball joint separator as well as some Mobil 1 oil for an Activa oil change.

    After I put some tension on the ball joint shaft with the new separator, I found that hitting the ring with the lump hammer with an ordinary hammer on the reverse side seemed to have little effect. However hitting the ball joint casing with the lump hammer a few times resulted in the bang clang clang noise I was so wanting to hear as the joint separated and the separator fell onto the concrete.

    Peeking under the boots on the joints of the new arm shows a tiny smear of grease around each ball joint. Should I add some more LMM grease around each joint before fitting the new arm?

    Cheers, Ken

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    Hi Ken
    Good result !
    "Should I add some more LMM grease around each joint before fitting the new arm?" Why not ! I often do even on new ones and work it around a bit to get it in ??
    Jaahn

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post

    Peeking under the boots on the joints of the new arm shows a tiny smear of grease around each ball joint. Should I add some more LMM grease around each joint before fitting the new arm?

    Cheers, Ken
    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi Ken
    Good result !
    "Should I add some more LMM grease around each joint before fitting the new arm?" Why not ! I often do even on new ones and work it around a bit to get it in ??
    Jaahn
    It certainly wouldn't hurt to add some more grease.
    Regards Col

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