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Thread: DSpecial CV joint cover

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Default DSpecial CV joint cover

    Hello all,

    Well the fun began tonight when we took Daphne to a workshop and put her on the hoist...it seems that the left CV joint cover is missing - see photos 1 and 2 below for left and right respectively - along with the lower engine cover - photo 3. Does anyone know if CV joint covers are available or if there's an alternative from another vehicle?

    Also, we've noticed a mystery hose end, see last photo, does anyone know if it should be attached to something else?






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    Many thanks,
    Melanie

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Franzose have the outer drive shaft boots. They also have discs and the missing undertray.
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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Hello, yes, all available. Usual suspects like Citroen Classics and Der Franzose. No wonder you didn't need a magnet on a stick!
    The tube could be from the caliper bleed nipples, the water pump or the drool tube from the carb. Most likely the caliper.
    You may need new nylon bungs for the holes in the joints

    Dust cover for drive shaft outer joint
    Nylon cap for outer universal joint bearing
    https://www.franzose.de/en/Citroen-D...eile/ANR35229/

    The are bound to be available locally

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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, yes, all available. Usual suspects like Citroen Classics and Der Franzose. No wonder you didn't need a magnet on a stick!
    The tube could be from the caliper bleed nipples, the water pump or the drool tube from the carb. Most likely the caliper.
    You may need new nylon bungs for the holes in the joints

    Dust cover for drive shaft outer joint
    Nylon cap for outer universal joint bearing
    https://www.franzose.de/en/Citroen-D...eile/ANR35229/

    The are bound to be available locally
    Thanks Badabec. Is this never ending? I feel like this car - that was regularly driving around on full rego one state away, minding its own business - is never going to be roadworthy in Victoria! Also, a magnet-mirror on a stick was purchased for Christmas, which will become more useful now that Paul is creating a bash plate as I type.

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    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    The original engine undertray is too thin to be called a bash plate! It is fragile. I have ripped one off on a badly rutted dirt road. Its main purpose is to show a flat surface to the road for airflow control and aerodynamic purposes. It has slots in it for the brake disc cooling ducts. I suggest that you need the ducts. If you are coming anywhere near Warrnambool any time soon I can show you what they look like.

    The tube is a drool tube from the axle housing, not supposed to connect to anything. I think there should be one on the other side too.

    Roadworthiness in Victoria is not an easy thing for an old car to achieve. But you would want to be fixing all those things you are fixng anyway.

    Roger
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    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Isn't that tube from the brakes? I think it is you know....
    You should have two off the brakes and one dangling from overflow on radiator that runs down the side of it feom the top. Feom? damn this Woolies cleanskin dry white. Looks like someone needs to clean that greasy mess up although it is like a comfy blanket for wonky things and discourages inspectors from discovering the real truths lurking below. How'd you go with the clunk?
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 19th January 2017 at 12:15 AM.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    The original engine undertray is too thin to be called a bash plate! It is fragile. I have ripped one off on a badly rutted dirt road. Its main purpose is to show a flat surface to the road for airflow control and aerodynamic purposes. It has slots in it for the brake disc cooling ducts. I suggest that you need the ducts. If you are coming anywhere near Warrnambool any time soon I can show you what they look like.

    The tube is a drool tube from the axle housing, not supposed to connect to anything. I think there should be one on the other side too.

    Roadworthiness in Victoria is not an easy thing for an old car to achieve. But you would want to be fixing all those things you are fixng anyway.

    Roger
    Thanks Roger, that makes sense about the slots for the discs. Paul made a very sturdy temporary plate, which he'll put slots in as you suggest. Thanks, also, for the info about the tube.

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    As above, you are also missing the brake cooling ducts. These are mine, plus the undertray, waiting to be cleaned. I also had them blasted, the undertray zinc spray and the whole lot powder coated silver.
    It was a shame the degreaser ate through the pink bucket and dumped all the mess on the floor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSpecial CV joint cover-dsc00238.jpg  
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  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! citroenthusiast's Avatar
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    Outer drive shaft boot is a PITA to replace. Probably why nobody did the job. To replace it you need to (1) remove the driveshaft from the car and (2) remove the triax from the drive shaft splines. Step 2 requires removing the snap ring (note the orientation of the undercut on the triax), then pulling the triax off with a very powerful (i.e. hydraulic) puller. Consider replacing the inner boots as a precaution while you have the driveshaft apart. Don't loose the rubber band that sits inside the pivot hub.

    Triax can be replaced by heating in an oven to 450F then sliding it over the splines
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    Cheers,
    John T.

    54 11BL; 61DS19 LHM (son's); 71DS21 BVH; 73SM 3.0; 73SM 2.7EFI; 73SM 3.0 (other son's); 74 Maserati Merak

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    Hang in there Melanie. Looks like you and Paul are getting through the jobs one by one. You will feel so pleased when you get your car on the road properly. You'll know straight away that it was worth it.

    The bits that you have missing - the under tray and the aluminium air scoops that fit on it- there is bound to be someone on here who can find those for you. They're a generous bunch.
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    Hi Melanie,sorry to see you are having so much bother and I apologise for throwing a spanner into the works.But is that LHM that I see dripping from the Disc.If so it may be coming from the steering controller or from the connection to the HP pump,hopefully the later.
    Woody

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    like John says the triaxe end needs to be separated and that can be easily achieved in a press, a shop should be able to do that in a jiffy, buy inner and outer rubber boots from someone like Roger Parker at Oleoneumatics in SA or OS from Der Franzose or such website shop. There is a seal on the inner side of the triaxe housing also which should be replaced or checked to see if is sealing properly and apart from all that grease you had probably being splashed all over the place from having no boots it needs to sealed so the triaxe is happy, gets pretty hot in there you would imagine. Alternatively if you were cashed up and the shafts are knackered you can get new improved ones from someone like Darrin at Citroen Classics in UK, simplifying the whole issue by just whacking a new one in! The outer boot goes on easily, the inner boot needs serious cajoling over the raised section of the shaft and I stuck the driveshafts I did in a vice and used some welding rod as guides to stretch/shove it over the bump. It's a prick of a job. Heat the boot up ( I used really hot water) and smear some rubber grease on inside of boot and shaft to make it smoother. You then need to pack the triaxe with grease and try and keep the balls (three) in same position as originally if possible. Make sure both boots are on the shaft before putting the triaxe on, easy to forget. You then press the triaxe joint back onto the shaft and put housing back on. For the boot ties you can go ligarex (original method) or some mega jubilee clips. Put some rubber strips on or even cloth to stop it biting into the boot rubber. Bit of work but not too hard.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 19th January 2017 at 12:02 PM.

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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone - I am on a downer as I thought we'd covered most things for roadworthy, only to discover a host more to be done. I'm organising a replacement windscreen (thank God they're easily got!) and other jobs.

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MelanieYlang View Post
    Thanks everyone - I am on a downer as I thought we'd covered most things for roadworthy, only to discover a host more to be done. I'm organising a replacement windscreen (thank God they're easily got!) and other jobs.

    Sent from my D6503 using aussiefrogs mobile app
    If you can, re-use the old screen rubber, even if you have to sit on your porch in your rocking chair picking all the old mastic off it. I've found the new rubber screen seals to be rubbish, they cracked and split within months even though the car is garaged.
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    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Two people, one on each side, some lubricant, rubber in the opening first, ease the screen up, move each side one at a time, try not to flex the screen, once high enough you can fit the two lower clips temporarily to stop it falling out and relax for a while then go again. Eventually it will slide right home. If the top corners of the rubber are too inflexible to fit right into the corners of the opening you might need a new rubber. The two brackets in the very corner at the bottom of the opening are nothing to do with the screen, their job is to hold the back corners of the bonnet at the right height. You shouldn't need mastic on the top or sides but it's good to use some at the bottom otherwise water can drip into your lap in wet weather. Almost all D owners know that feeling!

    Roger
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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Thanks again for the tips. I have a windscreen installer that services our area coming to fit it, and he's keen to use the original rubber seal also - so that sounds promising? It might also just mean they couldn't source one. They quoted around $365 fitted.

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    The bottom of the windscreen is normally sealed by pushing a strip of mastic up under the bottom. It just rests against the flap of rubber that hangs over the front of the dash and the long curved steel strip does hold a piece of rubber, but that is a cushion for the glass and not a seal. The mastic comes in a roll and looks like putty. You want to use that instead of letting the windscreen installer inject any kind of goop from a tube under there, especially not urethane sealant. If they can't oblige with mastic off a roll, ask them to leave it and then you buy a roll of the stuff and fit it yourself. It's not expensive if you buy it from an outfit like Franzose, but you should be able to find it locally and hopefully not be ripped off too much.

    What's the drop of oil on the bottom of the disc in your pictures? Where does that originate from?

    While it is on a hoist minus the undertray, inspect the rubber return hoses as the origianl items are rubber without reinforcing and they trend to break off in old age. There are a couple of different sizes and lengths on the left chassis rail leading back to the bottom of the reservoir. One that is commonly overlooked is the short curved joiner in the left corner, just ahead of the large crossmember. Now is a good time to replace the regulator return hose, which can be a major leak point. Repro rubber items do not inspire great confidence, so consider using generic oil hose which should be reinforced. Look at the parts book and you should see what you need to check.
    Last edited by David S; 20th January 2017 at 06:37 PM.

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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    I phoned the windscreen installer to ask about mastic gum sealant, and that's what they use, which is a relief.

    The oil in the photo will have been run-off from cleaning the engine bay.

    I have our local mechanic booked to replace the drive shafts, fingers crossed he is able to find the new parts easily.

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MelanieYlang View Post
    I phoned the windscreen installer to ask about mastic gum sealant, and that's what they use, which is a relief.

    The oil in the photo will have been run-off from cleaning the engine bay.

    I have our local mechanic booked to replace the drive shafts, fingers crossed he is able to find the new parts easily.

    Sent from my D6503 using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Melanie, just make sure your windscreen man uses a non setting mastic around the base only, no sealant required to the windscreen frame or rubber. With your help your Man of Steel could fit the screen, not that hard with two people on the job.



    The mastic is worked into the underside of the frame with attention to the corners.



    Cheers
    Chris
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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    You can buy CV joints now to replace the original double cardans, they are far superior. Don't bother using the old ones... Also, if it hasn't been mentioned, you'll need the cooling ducts to get air over the rotors..
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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lasya View Post
    You can buy CV joints now to replace the original double cardans, they are far superior. Don't bother using the old ones... Also, if it hasn't been mentioned, you'll need the cooling ducts to get air over the rotors..
    Thanks Lasya, yes we're replacing the whole lot instead of reusing. Can you please explain if I need to tell my mechanic something more specific about the cooling ducts?

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    Yes, fit the new windscreen yourselves. It's not that hard for a couple of capable and game people.

    As for the brake disc cooling ducts, buy some and fit them. They are a special shape, so you might need to see some. I can show you some if you fancy a quick trip to Warrnambool.

    Roger
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    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    Yes, fit the new windscreen yourselves. It's not that hard for a couple of capable and game people.

    As for the brake disc cooling ducts, buy some and fit them. They are a special shape, so you might need to see some. I can show you some if you fancy a quick trip to Warrnambool.

    Roger
    Thanks Roger, but I will go mad if I have to be responsible for fitting these things. As a wise man often reminds my inner cheapskate, sometimes it's cheaper to pay!!!

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    Wot Roger says...

    Quote Originally Posted by MelanieYlang View Post
    Thanks Lasya, yes we're replacing the whole lot instead of reusing. Can you please explain if I need to tell my mechanic something more specific about the cooling ducts?

    Sent from my D6503 using aussiefrogs mobile app
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    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    One thing I learned is to go to all the supplier sites and just trawl through them - it's amazing what you can find. Der Franzose. Citroworld et al. Sometimes the prices vary too so it's always good to check, plus you can sometimes see the different quality.
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    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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