Instrument cluster removal / speedometer question
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Thread: Instrument cluster removal / speedometer question

  1. #1
    Member turbofiat124's Avatar
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    Default 2CV Instrument cluster removal / speedometer question

    There are seven screws that holds the instrument panel (or cover rather) in. On my car, the ones in the center are missing but don't seem to cause any ill effects. There is one at the bottom and two on each side. These side screws appear to also go through the speedometer bracket. I had to use an awl to align everything together.


    Yesterday when I went to install the LED bulb in the speedometer, I couldn't quite get the cover off. But thanks to my slender hands, I was able to pull he bulb housing out of the speedometer and change it.


    If all the screws are removed, then what's holding me back? Seems like the issue was in the lower right hand corner. Perhaps I need to disconnect the washer pump and rear fog light switch?


    Brake light warning button: When I got this car, the warning light button worked. But for some reason since I've had it, it's stopped working. I replaced the bulb but it still doesn't work. So I don't know if the button has went bad or it's a poor earth or power issue. I can't imagine this button would get much use to wear out. I didn't even know what it was until I read up on it and have never seen it on any other car.


    Speedometers. I'd like to swap out speedometers for one that reads in MPH. Mine is in good shape but reads in kilometers. I've seen some ones on Ebay.UK that reads in MPH but the ones in good condition, they want a pretty penny for them. Maybe I can recoup my money by selling my metric speedometer on Ebay.


    If I swap the speedometers out, will the distance counter be off by .6? Or do I need to change out a gear drive in the gearbox? My guess is in Australia in order for the cars to be legal, they must read in kilometers so if you guys imported a 2CV from Britain and you swapped out speedometers does the counter work correctly or is it off by .6?


    Once a car becomes 30 years old in the United States, you can import anything, and it's basically exempt except for seat belts. Means I'm not required to have to add side marker lights, a 3rd brake light or convert the turn signal in the front to use a dual filament bulb instead of the park light being mounted in the headlamps.

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    Last edited by turbofiat124; 14th January 2017 at 10:25 AM.
    1987 2CV faux Charleston edition (One of many other makes)

    Mount Carmel, TN. (Outside Kingsport) USA

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Citroen%202CV?sort=2&page=1

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! dimistyle's Avatar
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    Hey post some pics of your 124 Spider did you add a turbo to the 2L engine or is that just your username. Long time 124 coupe owner now just holding out for a nice spider for the Queensland weather...

    Sent from my GT-I9195T using aussiefrogs mobile app

  3. #3
    Member turbofiat124's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimistyle View Post
    Hey post some pics of your 124 Spider did you add a turbo to the 2L engine or is that just your username. Long time 124 coupe owner now just holding out for a nice spider for the Queensland weather...

    Sent from my GT-I9195T using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Hello! Are you on Turbo124.com? I go by my name jseabolt on there.

    I go by turbofiat124 because of my car. I built the turbo system myself, except for the PBS turbo manifold. The engine management system is my own design and on budget. But since I'm running on .5 BAR boost, I didn't think it was necessary to spend gobs on money to do it "modern". I'm using a Malpassi 1:1.5 rising rate fuel pressure regulator. One of the boost switches kills the signal between the O2 sensor and ECU to avoid the mixture leaning out. The other one grounds a pin on a GM HEI gen2 control module which backs the timing off 5 degrees under boost. The other one just kicks the A/C compressor off under boost.

    I put together an A/C system from parts off Ebay.

    Here some pics with some descriptions:



    T3 turbo from Volvo 240. I started out with a PBS exhaust manifold and worked from there:



    Hood insulation after the A/C installation:



    1987 Honda CRX seats:





    Cup holder!




    This number plate caused overheating after the A/C installation so it's gone.



    About 15 years ago.





    12 to 15 volt step up converter to boost wiper motor performance, along with Bosch wiper motor from Golf mk1:





    A/C evaporator:



    A/C performance (7C):



    Temperature that day (34C):



    Here are some more pics if your interested:

    Main Spider page: 1980 Spider by James Seabolt | Photobucket
    Turbocharger: Garrett T3 by James Seabolt | Photobucket
    Ignition controller: GM 5 PIN HEI Module by James Seabolt | Photobucket
    A/C :Spider AC System by James Seabolt | Photobucket
    1987 2CV faux Charleston edition (One of many other makes)

    Mount Carmel, TN. (Outside Kingsport) USA

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Citroen%202CV?sort=2&page=1

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! dimistyle's Avatar
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    Some great handy work on the spider. Uprated A/C and wipers is a great idea.
    Didn't mean to side swipe your post. Can you re title to include 2CV so the forum viewer can answer and throw some photos in as a comparison.


    Sent from my GT-I9195T using aussiefrogs mobile app

  5. #5
    Member turbofiat124's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    Forgot this was a French multi-car forum!
    dimistyle likes this.
    1987 2CV faux Charleston edition (One of many other makes)

    Mount Carmel, TN. (Outside Kingsport) USA

    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/Citroen%202CV?sort=2&page=1

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