DS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)
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Thread: DS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default DS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)

    Hi all
    The AAV on my DS23IE has been seized in the 'open' position for some time, which results in fast idle and poor fuel consumption. The AAV allows extra air to the intake manifold when the engine is cold and should close the air supplywhen it is warm. I bought a replacement temerature sensor insert from Franzose but don't see any easy way to install it into the existing housing. Local fuel injection experts don't want to touch it for fear of damaging the alloy housing. It appears to be a press fit?? Not even sure which end of the housing to open to remove the existing sensor insrt.
    Has anyone had experience with this part and the reconditioning of it? All advice graefully received
    DS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)-img_0999.jpgDS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)-img_1001.jpgDS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)-img_1002.jpgDS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)-img_1003.jpg

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  2. #2
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dssm73 View Post
    Hi all
    The AAV on my DS23IE has been seized in the 'open' position for some time, which results in fast idle and poor fuel consumption. The AAV allows extra air to the intake manifold when the engine is cold and should close the air supplywhen it is warm. I bought a replacement temerature sensor insert from Franzose but don't see any easy way to install it into the existing housing. Local fuel injection experts don't want to touch it for fear of damaging the alloy housing. It appears to be a press fit?? Not even sure which end of the housing to open to remove the existing sensor insrt.
    Has anyone had experience with this part and the reconditioning of it? All advice graefully received
    This may give you an idea of how to pull it down and reassemble. . .
    RÉVISION DE LA COMMANDE D?AIR ADDITIONNELLE DS/SM INJECTION. | Citrothello

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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
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    Yes, you really need to turn out the base, which will be probably be corroded anyway, using a lathe and then make up a new holder for the element from aluminium stock. If you try to drive the piston and base out with a drift, you will shatter the piston! Note that it doesn't run true in the lathe without packing unevenly. It is a press fit and the way it is made is as a cup to hold the wax element with a closing cover on the inside pressed into it and then that assembly of three parts is pressed into the housing. You can buy that wax element (which is probably for a Benz application) but not the other parts, which you have to make. There are some differences between the original wax element and the replacement, so you can't just copy the remains if the original base. It doesn't have to be a press fit if you view it bolted to the water pipe as an assembly.

    The whole idea of this part is a bit flawed as it works in isolation to whatever else the EFI is doing. A manual choke type device would be just as effective and prevents over-revving where the AAV is slow to close.

    The guts of it are the same as some Volvo, BMW etc. D-Jet parts, but the hose arrangements and port sizes differ. Try washing out as much sooty residue as you can with carby cleaner and let it soak with WD40 for several days. Place the exposed wax element in boiling water and see if it moves. It's just a form of thermostat, but for air instead of coolant.

    EDIT: Citrothello seems to be making a lot of work of this job, but it would depend on whether the piston is corroded or not. You have to take the bottom out regardless, but the valves I've dismantled have always been recoverable. I wouldn't be using heat on the blanking plug as it's steel and will probably have 'grown' and might ruin the thread when you remove it even with heat. Better to drill it out (lathe) and save the housing, which is not available as repro, and then fit a temp gauge sender instead of the plug.
    Last edited by David S; 6th January 2017 at 10:33 PM.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    I propped mine up, filled it with penetrating oil and left it for a week and it worked after that. There's very little valve movement between cold and hot just a few mm so I guess it seizes up unless the car is used every day.

    Might be worth a try if you haven't already.

    Cheers

    Marc
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  5. #5
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    Hello,
    For what it is worth, the Auxiliary Air Valve on my engine was replaced with a Nissan part years ago. But the part is readily available at about $80.
    If authenticity matters then this is not the way to go ... mine is mounted on top of the rocker cover for all to see. But it is in a much better position than the original
    Cheers
    Ian

  6. #6
    Thank God for my Hydroen harrisson_citroen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueduck View Post
    Hello,
    For what it is worth, the Auxiliary Air Valve on my engine was replaced with a Nissan part years ago. But the part is readily available at about $80.
    If authenticity matters then this is not the way to go ... mine is mounted on top of the rocker cover for all to see. But it is in a much better position than the original
    Cheers
    Ian
    Hey Blueduck,
    Would you be able to post a picture of the arrangement by any chance? Would be great, thanks.



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  7. #7
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    Default Nissan Auxiliary air valve

    Can you see it. There is a hose going to the throttle body from it. Since that photo I have made a slightly different bracket for it
    Regards
    Ian

    DS23ie Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV)-p1070322-compressed.jpg

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    I just fitted a functioning AAV to my 21EFI. It now revs up when cold to about 1800rpm but then to my amazement after a few seconds the revs drop to 1000 then pick up again to 1800 then drop etc. Would anyone know what's happening here?

    I've checked the electrical connections to the points at the base of the distributor, injectors and other sensors.

    Cheers

    Marc
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  9. #9
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    Marc,
    I have learnt through bitter experience that air-leaks do exactly what you are describing.

    Perhaps you might let car warm up and then block off the AAV air-line going to the throttle body (The 'let car warm up applies to UK only!!!!!")
    This will tell you whether the problem is related your your new AAV or not.

    At one point in my saga I had exactly your symptoms but the air leak came from the inlet manifold. I assume this would not apply in your case because you have not touched these.
    However you might have disturbed the 4 manifold rubbers. If they are not seating properly I think you will have the same problem.

    The original manifold air-leak was discovered by spraying carb-cleaner around the general area. Only for the bravehearts though

    Cheers
    Ian
    Blueduck (aka Ian Downie)
    1974 Citroen D Special with DS21i.e. engine and 5 speed gearbox
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  10. #10
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    Thermostat opening late? Could the AAV be opening again because the thermostat opens and allows the coolant to quickly drop in temperature?

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    I found that the hose connected from the manifold to the full load switch was a loose fit at the switch. Replaced with new and fitted a jubilee clip and now all is good thanks.

    Cheers

    Marc
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  12. #12
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