Interior door handles DS....... Australian version.
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    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Default Interior door handles DS....... Australian version.

    I recently ordered some new interior door handles, I went by the Franzose catalogue, ordering 4X79MM tongues. As indicated for my model year. My car being Australian, for some obscure reason requires 73mm tongue in the rear, and 90mm tongues in the front. Apparently this is an Australian quirk, worth making a mental note. Not sure if anyone knows why, but a pain to put right if you realise the error only once the handles arrive. Now have new handles with correct length tongues. So I can finish the job I started 6 weeks ago........ Among others.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Interior door handles DS....... Australian version.-img_6816.jpg   Interior door handles DS....... Australian version.-img_6804.jpg  
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    I had rear handles rechromed by Citroservices in Italy, didn't want to order new ones for that exact reason! : )
    They cost about $250 and am happy with the work. Psyching myself up to buy some flash repro exterior flush handles. I could point out to someone Christmas is around the corner. Hmmm.

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    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Ebay.fr has a few of the late 75 S/S variety external door handles, you'll love the price.

    POIGNEE DE PORTE GAUCHE EN INOX CITROEN DS ID 1975 (1610025) | eBay

    or if you want a fresh one....

    http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Poignee-de-po...wAAOSwLF1YA3yr
    Last edited by mberry; 25th November 2016 at 01:42 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mberry View Post
    I recently ordered some new interior door handles, I went by the Franzose catalogue, ordering 4X79MM tongues. As indicated for my model year. My car being Australian, for some obscure reason requires 73mm tongue in the rear, and 90mm tongues in the front. Apparently this is an Australian quirk, worth making a mental note. Not sure if anyone knows why, but a pain to put right if you realise the error only once the handles arrive. Now have new handles with correct length tongues. So I can finish the job I started 6 weeks ago........ Among others.

    Ive bought interior door handles from Citroen classique but discovered that the front ones dont lock properly?they will need some filing??

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    Quote Originally Posted by le parisian View Post
    ive bought interior door handles from citroen classique but discovered that the front ones dont lock properly?they will need some filing??

    quelle???

    I was thinking of getting onto Darrin in UK they are about $100 each for repros, minus postage. Have been having fun trying to remove lock cylinders from barrels for new cylinders, one of them is so worn though it is jammed I'm afraid so will be just getting new barrels as well. Doors suck.

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    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Parisian View Post
    Ive bought interior door handles from Citroen classique but discovered that the front ones dont lock properly?they will need some filing??

    My experience was exactly the same, which lead me to investigate further. So there are 3 sizes for the tongues on the interior door handles. The wrong size fits fine, it just doesn’t operate the locking mechanism...... 73mm 79mm and 90mm, it sounds like you have the wrong size, I wondered if I could make them work on mine, but was worried if I damaged them there would be no way to return them.
    On another note, I used an old tyre tube to remake the rubber clips that secure the cable to the tongue, worked really well. Unlike my first attempt with a thinker piece of rubber that I kept breaking when fitting.
    M.BERRY
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    from Darrins site the 73mm work on push button doors and the 79 90 go with flush post 72 exterior handles.
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    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    from Darrins site the 73mm work on push button doors and the 79 90 go with flush post 72 exterior handles.
    From Roger Parker’s website The Citroen DS Specialist | Roger Parker




    14. The inner door handle for the late model seems to be different from the spare parts catalogue?
    For the D there are 3 types of inner handle. The early that had short
    (73mm) thumb tongues front and rear. Then the late that uses long (90mm) tongues in the front and medium tongues (79mm) in the rear.
    For reasons that I don’t know the Australian version of the late uses short tongues (73mm) in the rear.

    I'm backing Roger on this one.
    M.BERRY
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    Quote Originally Posted by mberry View Post
    For reasons that I don’t know the Australian version of the late uses short tongues (73mm) in the rear.
    I'm not sure what the issue is here are you saying the longer tongue does not function i.e. lock (how could this be so only for Aus delivered cars?) - or that they are not correct as in not original fitment (so purely looks).

    Cheers
    Chris
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

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    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Hi guys,

    Slightly off topic but related. I have one rear passenger door that won't lock from inside, hence the door is always open. I admittedly haven't done deep investigation but what is likely to be the problem and how difficult is it to get to everything? Do I have to take out the glass? I had the door trim off but could not feel my way around to the front of the door where the interior handle is. Note this on a 1962 Aussie ID19.

    Regards,
    Leconte
    1962 Heidelberg ID19 "Axel"
    1965 Heidelberg ID19
    half owner 1974 GS 1220 Convertisseur Break

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leconte View Post
    Hi guys,

    Slightly off topic but related. I have one rear passenger door that won't lock from inside, hence the door is always open. I admittedly haven't done deep investigation but what is likely to be the problem and how difficult is it to get to everything? Do I have to take out the glass? I had the door trim off but could not feel my way around to the front of the door where the interior handle is. Note this on a 1962 Aussie ID19.

    Regards,
    Leconte
    Leconte,
    Something you can try that has worked for me in the past, loosen the locknut on the inside door handle - move the handle to put a little tension on the internal connecting rod and re-tighten the locking nut. If it works it will save having to pull the door card and make the adjustment of the rod from inside the door.

    Cheers
    Chris
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    just measured my rear thumb tongue! That doesn't sound very appropriate now does it? Anyway it is 73mm. So that proves there is conflicting info, so a late model (here) definitely will need 73mm on rear doors, as Roger and Michael state (which I have no argument with anyway). Who knows! Glad I stuck with the rechrome instead of racing off and buying 79mm as might be recommended. Maybe there is a difference in the axtual length of the handle? Oy vey vot a veek I''ve had today.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 25th November 2016 at 10:18 PM.
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    skp
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    Hi All,
    Actually, all the inner handles will work, AND lock. I have considerable experience with this!
    The different length tongues provide different leverage to the actual lock mechanism, but all operate in the same manner.
    The lock mechanism does have some slightly different spring tensions over the production life, but still operates in the same manner.
    There are two reasons for non-locking doors - incorrect pushrod length, and sticking lock mechanism ( or broken spring)
    The BEST idea ( although the messiest) involves the removal of the lock mechanism. Nasty job, as this entails the removal of the window glass - and doing battle with the "U" clamp holding the glass.
    Removal of the outer weather strip ( lift up), and inner fuzzy (clips pinning the middle of the fuzzy) is easy.
    Remove the two 8mm bolts at either end of the glass support rail that stop it going too high ( hits on side rail stops), then bend back and slide off the figure 8 clips holding the lifting arms onto the glass support rail. There should be a waffle washer in between.

    Prying open the "U" clamp is difficult. I use a piece of wood off-cut slipped into the U, then twisted to open the jaws..... These vary. Some are quite low tension, some are NOT!! Slide the glass up and out of the door. The jaws may loose a felt rubbing pad. Replace with a bit of carpet glued on.
    Remove the rear slide rail, retaining all washers / spacers in order.
    This gives you full access to the lock mechanism. If you haven't already done so, remove the push /pull rod connected to the inner door handle - 8mm bolt on later cars, Allen screw on earlier.
    On front doors, push up the inner retaining plate on the outer lock barrel, and remove barrel and tongue.

    Unscrew lock mechanism (3 Allen bolts). The locks are often dirt encrusted. Give them a good clean and make sure that the two spring are still there, and that all parts move freely. Sticking levers is one of the major causes of the mechanism not locking.
    Re-fit it all !!
    Adjusting the push/pull rod at the lock end will get the lock working.
    Not a real fun job, ( and one I've got to do on a car Monday morning...), but worth while for another 30 years of good function.

    The cheats way:
    PROVIDED that both the lock springs are working, squirt the lock mechanism in situ ,with CRC to lubricate it. Bit oil doesn't go astray after that... Free the push/pull rod, and work the lock lever to work the entire lock mechanism ( need to use a screwdriver to reset the lower 'tumbler' that does the actual locking to the door plate, each time).
    If this all now works, adjust the pushrod length and secure.
    The inner door handle has very little real adjustment. The rear bolt hole should stop much movement.
    The only real adjustment is to the pushrod at the lock end.
    Have fun!

    SKP

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    skp
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    BTW..
    I have inner ( and outer) door handles re-chromed locally. To dis-assemble the inner handle, ( small lock tab has removable screw), I use a thin fretsaw blade to cut the pivot pin on the main actuator lever. The upper part of the pin usually falls out, and the lower is a light punch to clear the shaft hole. A Bronze welding rod is the same diameter, so after re-chroming, it is an easy reassemble, and centre punch the pin to swell it and lock into place.

    SKP
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    Quote Originally Posted by skp View Post

    Prying open the "U" clamp is difficult. I use a piece of wood off-cut slipped into the U, then twisted to open the jaws......

    SKP
    Stuart,
    A tip for Monday, try the supplied jack prop tools on the 'U' clamp spring. . .



    Cheers
    Chris
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Interior door handles DS....... Australian version.-ds-door-spring-clamp.jpg  
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Tadpole
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    Has anyone removed the chrome plate and tried polishing on the buff?

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    Theres a pdf of that method of removing the chrome and buffing the alloy handles, can email it to you if you need it.

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    Tadpole
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    Yes thanks Steven, I've got 3 cars with peeling chrome handles, is it an electrolisis removal method?

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    strangely enough after just checking the pdf the writer says he had them polished but no mention of removing the chrome (???) I had a google and couldn't locate the doc but will pm you it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Theres a pdf of that method of removing the chrome and buffing the alloy handles, can email it to you if you need it.
    I think I've read that. He also explains how he removed the blind pins (by drilling I think?). He may even explain why the different handles aren't compatible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    strangely enough after just checking the pdf the writer says he had them polished but no mention of removing the chrome (???) I had a google and couldn't locate the doc but will pm you it.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tv0b25gpm...or+handles.pdf

    Cheers
    Chris
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Tadpole
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    Apart from any already flaking off, removing the chrome is a real pain. Most electroplaters can do it but you have to remove the plastic latches from the handles first. I tried the method used in the PDF above which resulted in several high tensile bolts shearing in half and the pin unmoved. I ended up leaving them in place and carefully sanding what little chrome was left off by hand. They do polish up nicely but it takes many hours of sanding and polishing to take out the pitting. The upside is you never have to worry about the chrome falling off again which can happen.

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    any description of a job involving doors uses an adjective such as pain and a noun like arse!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mberry View Post
    My experience was exactly the same, which lead me to investigate further. So there are 3 sizes for the tongues on the interior door handles. The wrong size fits fine, it just doesn’t operate the locking mechanism...... 73mm 79mm and 90mm, it sounds like you have the wrong size, I wondered if I could make them work on mine, but was worried if I damaged them there would be no way to return them.
    On another note, I used an old tyre tube to remake the rubber clips that secure the cable to the tongue, worked really well. Unlike my first attempt with a thinker piece of rubber that I kept breaking when fitting.

    I appreciate that these door handles are replicas and far too expensive for the quality that you get but what I fail to understand is no test is carried out on the locking mechanism prior sending them to a customer???, they actually sending a faulty product across the sea and are not concerned???
    The question is how many people got sucked in??? I will be sending them a nasty email shortly

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    Thanks Chris +SKP For some tips. Given current work commitments I will be tackling my non-locking rear door over the Christmas break.

    Plus I will try to get back in touch with you Chris about the various stickers we were discussing a while ago and the ones you so kindly sent me. Sorry but I have been and still am buried in work. Still interested in getting metal versions of the Commonwealth Motors sticker made up.

    Regards
    Leconte
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