DS camshaft pulley removal
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Thread: DS camshaft pulley removal

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS camshaft pulley removal

    Dear brains trust

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    Inseek advice on the best way of removing the camshaft pulley, without specialized tools. It is very tight, and the pulley just turns with the spanner.

    I am assuming the car should be in gear, and to turn anti-clockwise. Is it ok to place a large screwdriver through to stop it turning? (I am replacing the pulley as the rivets have come loose and there is quite a bit of play).

    Any tips would be much appreciated. Go easy, this is the first time I have done this...

    AM

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    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    DO NOT put the car in gear, or you risk damaging the timing chain and tensioner. From memory I have used a piece of 1" water pipe or similar about a foot long through the pulley.

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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    A quick blip with an impact wrench will make short work of it.
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    If the engine is still in the car, you will almost certainly have trouble getting the pulley off the shaft and past the steering rack and gearbox

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    Hi,It is usually the handbrake caliper that gets in the way.With the engine in neutral give the spanner a sharp tap with a rubber mallet.
    You may have to loosen the H/brake caliper
    Woody

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    And if you do not / can not get your hands on one, give me a call if you are close (relatively) to Essendon. PM me details.

    John

    Quote Originally Posted by daffyduck View Post
    A quick blip with an impact wrench will make short work of it.

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    Many thanks all. Got it off. A bit of muscle and a pipe extension on the socket wrench.

    Steering rack is already out (main reason for the job). And letting the handbrake off gave me just enough space to wriggle the pulley out. Things sure are tight amongst all this stuff!

    Next question, on the premise that there is no such thing as a stupid question...

    Last year DS motors diagnosed a leaking camshaft oil seal, just behind the camshaft pulley. Sure enough, it is plain to see as there is oil residue and grime where it has been weeping. Over time, it has generated a right old mess.

    The experts have all said that replacing the oil seal requires removing the gearbox, which I don't really understand. There it is, exposed with the pulley off, with its own three bolt housing. What is it about the seal mechanism and small housing that requires the whole bell housing behind it to also be removed?

    yours, confused...

    AM

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Next question, on the premise that there is no such thing as a stupid question...
    NEVER be ashamed to ask a stupid question. They're far easier and cheaper to fix than a stupid mistake.
    UFO, Mort Subite and Errol_S like this.
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    It's never worried me! Sometimes in blog land, however, there are those who can't help themselves...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post


    NEVER be ashamed to ask a stupid question. They're far easier and cheaper to fix than a stupid mistake.

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    Maybe they were talking / referring to the one behind the flywheel; crankshaft seal?! That certainly requires the GB out!




    Quote Originally Posted by ajaxvte View Post
    Many thanks all. Got it off. A bit of muscle and a pipe extension on the socket wrench.

    Steering rack is already out (main reason for the job). And letting the handbrake off gave me just enough space to wriggle the pulley out. Things sure are tight amongst all this stuff!

    Next question, on the premise that there is no such thing as a stupid question...

    Last year DS motors diagnosed a leaking camshaft oil seal, just behind the camshaft pulley. Sure enough, it is plain to see as there is oil residue and grime where it has been weeping. Over time, it has generated a right old mess.

    The experts have all said that replacing the oil seal requires removing the gearbox, which I don't really understand. There it is, exposed with the pulley off, with its own three bolt housing. What is it about the seal mechanism and small housing that requires the whole bell housing behind it to also be removed?

    yours, confused...

    AM
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    Slippery slope again...

    If you've got this far, why not whip the gearbox out, change the clutch, camshaft bearings and seals and new handbrake pads

    Oh, you need it for work on Monday
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  12. #12
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    to sort out the camshaft seal is a 'bit of a job' , the seal lives behind/in the dizzie drive so to get to that you need to separate the gearbox from the motor. When you do take the drive off note the studs as they are different lengths and use loctite to seal on refitting. There is also a spring washer between the bell housing and distributor at the camshaft. plus a paper seal on the dizzie drive to block. ( I think thats a dry refit?). You've obviously removed a fair bit to have the rack out so not much more really, a hoist will be nmake it easier, leave the support arm on it when lifting, or take wings off and convince a muscle bound friend they should help you lift it out!

    Hang on edit edit, undo the driveshafts also at the triaxe too . Slacken gear cable, clutch cable and speedo cable off.
    Remove all the belts and the pipe from hydraulic pump to regulator.

    btw you'll need to loosen the handbrake cable I think quick way is to just remove bolts on one ( left side?) and flop it over, but replacing needs the springs compressed and that is assisted by making up the special tool, curved flat of metal with two cotter pins to squash it in then let out when cable back in position.

    Ah D's... so much fun.

    Clear as mud get a D addict around for some help!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 9th July 2016 at 09:18 PM.

  13. #13
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    As others suggest, you're in the neighbourhood - keep going and do the clutch etc.
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  14. #14
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    It is tempting, especially as steering rack is out and I have also removed radiator, fan, belts, camshaft pulley, HP pump, alternator, belts etc.

    But I have zero experience, only basic tools and concerns about messing it up! I also have no hoist or jack (although of course could get hold of one, I guess).

    Is there a fool's guide to separating the gearbox/bell housing and doing the clutch and camshaft oil seal? The 814 repair manual has a guide on removing the gearbox, and it seems relatively straightforward (if fiddly), but not clutch replacement. Or is it quite intuitive once you are in there...

    AM



    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    As others suggest, you're in the neighbourhood - keep going and do the clutch etc.

  15. #15
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    If you give yourself plenty of room ie take the wings off to improve access, have the car on stands, it is very straightforward, you can investigate the crankshaft seal and flywheel condition too. It's pretty much sockets and a torque wrench along the way. But yes access to a hoist is very useful. The manual gives all of the info you need and if it helps take photos of disassembly as you go. You'll be looking at what type of clutch plate you have if replacing, gasket for camshaft seal in distributor, rubber seal on inside of bellhousing where camshaft goes through, a dust cover for clutch fork, camshaft seal, hmm what else? I'd go the yards so at least you know, heck you could pull the motor out with gearbox attached and check your timing chain and tensioner but you'll need a 25mm socket and big extension to undo the wngine mounts, think its a wonky size? anyone?

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    And since you are there, the engine bay could do with a bit of a tart up, whip out that loom and fix the odd end's...do the synchro's in the gearbox ... and end up with a bare chassis and 5000 separate pieces. Uh no, that was me...

    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Slippery slope again...

    If you've got this far, why not whip the gearbox out, change the clutch, camshaft bearings and seals and new handbrake pads

    Oh, you need it for work on Monday
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  17. #17
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    yep.... think of it as gaining experience, once you've done it you'll know stuff and the next baffling job won't be as daunting. Plus you'll have more tools than last time!

    Have a look at those Dutch D technical tutorial videos on Youtube, you don't need to speak the lingo to get what the guy is on about, you might even end up thinking there is your own better way to do things.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 14th July 2016 at 08:43 PM.

  18. #18
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    Thats how I got where I am!

    Started by wanting to get at the starter motor. Have ended up with engine out, all peripherals off and being rebuilt and i've bought all new bearings etc for the full engine build I'm about to start....... Clutch will be replaced....A new loom will be ordered, dash will becoming out......The list grows and grows!

  19. #19
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    Thats how I got where I am!

    Started by wanting to get at the starter motor. Have ended up with engine out, all peripherals off and being rebuilt and i've bought all new bearings etc for the full engine build I'm about to start....... Clutch will be replaced....A new loom will be ordered, dash will becoming out......The list grows and grows!

  20. #20
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    Hmmm, still thinking about whether to go the whole hog with the gearbox and bell housing out scenario - principally to replace this $4 camshaft oil seal! A few questions in making up my mind...

    A. Removing the gearbox and bell housing

    1. Any particular tricks here? Once the housing comes away, any alignment issues with pulling the assembly away from the crankshaft and camshaft?
    2. In reassembling, are there alignment issues to be aware of? should I be applying any kind of loctite or other sealant?

    B. Clutch

    1. I assume my '75 D special will have the later diaphragm type pressure plate.
    2. In replacing the friction plate, is it necessary/preferred to also replace the pressure plate? Depends on the condition, I guess, but I haven't been able to find any replacement diaphragm pressure plates. The alternative is to just leave it alone, I suppose. They must be hardy, because in very complete service history I can't find any record of the clutch having been replaced. The car has done 176k miles - does this sound right?
    3. If the clutch is operating ok now, is it necessary/advisable to also replace the thrust bearing? Again, depends on condition, but am assuming that it would be.

    B. Camshaft oil seal

    Now that I have the front up on stands and have removed pulleys and cleaned the housing etc, it is much easier to see where the oil has been leaking - straight through the camshaft oil seal and then the bearing. Even having drained the oil, and the car immobile, the weeping is still occurring. Should I replace the bearing as well as the seal, or does the weeping oil seal simply mean that the oil finds its way through the bearing regardless of its condition?

    If I do decide to go ahead, I'll have my much more savvy DIY car-guy brother helping out, which will be a relief...

    Yours in trepidation...

  21. #21
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    just to mess with your head I'd simply disconnect everything according to the workshop manual and pull the motor out with the box and go from there. I't pretty straightforward if you have a hoist and a stand/table to chuck it all on.

  22. #22
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    Unfortunately no hoist and no space for stand. The front of the garage slopes away to a cobblestone laneway... I'll look on this experience as a trial run for a more serious makeover at a later date...

  23. #23
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    If you are there, just replace all three clutch parts and be done with it. There is one hidden bolt tucked away near the camshaft oil seal but otherwise, it is just a nut and bolt job as mentioned earlier.
    Change the camshaft bearing as well, it is only a few dollars, with any luck, you'll never go there again.

    For the timing chain, you could always do what a previous owner of mine did, cut out the bulkhead, change the chain and then pop rivet back into place a major structural part

    Is the car in a garage? Can you turn it around so the front of the car is at the back of the garage with the boot sticking out? Then you can use a hoist and engine stand.

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