Xantia gear change weirdness
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Thread: Xantia gear change weirdness

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Default Xantia gear change weirdness

    This has me perplexed, engine cold (left off overnight) on startup the shift is stiff and the clutch pedal sloppy, not returning, after warming up works fine. What could be causing this weirdness?

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    You haven't parked near an Al4 and it's cross pollinated ?
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    I was thinking cable worn, crud jamming shift linkage and maybe worn clutch but it wouldn't just decide to behave in those cases. I refilled the gear oil, correctly, recently and chucked in some nulon additive.

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    Is it an hydraulic clutch or cable?

    How old is the clutch?

  5. #5
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    Start with the clutch cable, assuming it's not one of the less common variants with a hydraulic clutch.
    Try some lube if you wish, but the cables eventually bind up inside.

    p.s. For a cable, also change the stupid plastic clip at the pedal end.
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    sounds like a plan. Thanks, not sure if it has the hydraulic business, its a 97 turbo CT hydractive.

    its got 278K on it so clutch would possibly be slightly old plus I have no history of it.

    Its pretty bloody good for its age though, I just sorted latest LHM leak from regulator bleed screw o ring, I think they're all going, bit round pump which could be sad if it goes and hits the alternator I guess!
    I just drive it and tell it I like it and hope I'm not standing on the side of the road talking to someone asking to bring a trailer!

  7. #7
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    Possibly the driven/friction plate binding on the input shaft. Colder weather makes the grease & crud thicken and bind; gearbox warms and it releases.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    CT is hydraulic clutch. You know they use DOT4 in the clutch reservoir?

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    They are a puller clutch with the throwout bearing clipped into the pressure plate after the gearbox is mated with the engine. Check the details of doing a clutch on the ML5 gearbox in the diesel section of Haynes. Mine had done similar kilometerage when the bearing started to pull out of the pressure plate. A couple of changes later, I had no clutch release. This is actually a blessing in disguise as it actually allows you to take the gearbox off normally. If you need to change a clutch on one of these with the throwout bearing in place, you need to undo the pressure plate through the slave cylinder port and take it off with the gearbox as there is otherwise not enough room to be able to lower the gearbox when seperated from the engine.

    The gearbox linkages are cable operated on that gearbox. So perhaps you are having cable stiction issues with the gearchange when cold.

    Cheers, Ken
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    sounds like a plan. Thanks, not sure if it has the hydraulic business, its a 97 turbo CT hydractive.

    its got 278K on it so clutch would possibly be slightly old plus I have no history of it.

    Its pretty bloody good for its age though, I just sorted latest LHM leak from regulator bleed screw o ring, I think they're all going, bit round pump which could be sad if it goes and hits the alternator I guess!
    I just drive it and tell it I like it and hope I'm not standing on the side of the road talking to someone asking to bring a trailer!
    The CT clutch "cable" is a one peice hydraulic arrangement
    It probably just needs a reservoir top up
    The reservoir is hidden up near the scuttle and you can top it up by prising off the cap an adding a few drops
    The reservoir is very small
    Your symptoms indicate this is the problem
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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    I better go look for it, cheers! Had a rummage and located the slave cylinder on bell housing , pipe goes back to firewall and I assume the LHM resevoir has to come out to reach the cylinder resevoir? Well it would have to wouldn't it! Calling all units for backup!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 22nd June 2016 at 09:01 AM.

  12. #12
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    No it is small and tucked under so to speak

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    Hmm I couldn't see it. At all, what am I doing wrong?

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    Does this help? Down the thread a bit there's a pic.

    Xantia HDI 110 Clutch slave kaputt.. - Page 2 - French Car Forum
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    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    aha thats where it is, thankyou, so imagining I can actually get the cap off and get in to fill it, is there going to be an issue with it having air in the system? How do you bleed it? It worked fine today btw! Temperamental thing.

    Take resevoir cap off, fill, pump clutch pedal and hope it sorts itself?
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 22nd June 2016 at 11:59 PM.

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    I think you might have to take the intake air pipe off the turbo to have any chance of seeing it and filling it. You are looking for a master cylinder above the clutch pedal that has a rearward sloping line coming from the top back to a small reservoir that sits against the firewall beside the heater hose connection and has a plastic cap covering its top. I have seen it when working on the brake valve.

    By the way, if your car hasn't had the diapham at the back of the brake valve replaced - do it soon as when it fails it will fill up all the carpets and padding in the drivers footwell with LHM.

    Cheers Ken

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    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    thanks gents, yes that brake boot is on the radar Ken cheers. Ebay time, I was away for 3 weeks and found a rodent had set up camp in bay, going away for 7 weeks shortly so baits to be prepared, damned if I'm letting a family chew through all my wiring, hoses anything plastic they feel like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    aha thats where it is, thankyou, so imagining I can actually get the cap off and get in to fill it, is there going to be an issue with it having air in the system? How do you bleed it? It worked fine today btw! Temperamental thing.

    Take resevoir cap off, fill, pump clutch pedal and hope it sorts itself?
    It self bleeds after a few applications

  19. #19
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    um this was ridiculously easy to do, cap easy to access, just used long thin hose and funnel.... for clarity reference as Ken mentioned its above the clutch, literally on firewall in front of steering wheel but you need to reach in to open. Thanks guys!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    um this was ridiculously easy to do, cap easy to access, just used long thin hose and funnel.... for clarity reference as Ken mentioned its above the clutch, literally on firewall in front of steering wheel but you need to reach in to open. Thanks guys!
    Has the clutch improved?
    JohnW

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  21. #21
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    Yes indeed, pedal coming back much better, but I'll have to check when it's cold to see if it really did the trick. Seemed to play up when sitting overnight, longer.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Yes indeed, pedal coming back much better, but I'll have to check when it's cold to see if it really did the trick. Seemed to play up when sitting overnight, longer.
    That's encouraging. I'd be looking for a leak at the clutch end.
    JohnW

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  23. #23
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    didn't notice anything but that crossed my mind.

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