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Thread: DS glass film

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Default DS glass film

    Hello, I have removed all the glass and had it coated with the 3M crystalline film. In a blond (OK, grey) moment, I messed up the marking of the rear door glass. I now have two identical rear door glasses instead of mirror images. This means one glass is correct, the other has the film on the outside and is wrong.

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    The metal strip at the bottom has a lip on one side. Does that lip face the door skin or the door card? Does it matter?

    The way I'm performing, I'll pick the wrong one to have stripped and re-done and end up with both wrong.

    Thanks

    Peter

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    At the bottom corners of the glass holder strips there are welded on nuts to take a small bolt (8mm head), which act as the upper limit stops (against the tracks that can be slid up/down). You should be able to fit the bolts from the inside of the car and have the welded on nut on the outside of the glass. To fit the glass, it should be simpler if you slide the tracks down so they move across and line up the track with the slot.

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    Fellow Frogger! bleudanube's Avatar
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    The lip on the holder is facing the door skin , the flat side of it faces towards the inside of the door / car. Just did the installation this afternoon (and got it wrong first up as well.... )

    Sven

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    If there is still confusion. . .




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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Hello, thanks for descriptions and photos. Yes, I have definitely messed it up. At least I got three of the door glasses correct! I hope they can peel it off.

    No-one to blame but myself.

    I've got the Gallic shrug down to a fine art

    Now I've got to remove all that contact adhesive snot from the door skins in preparation for refitting

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    For all my protestations about asking first, mistakes do happen. You're not doing yourself any good by beating yourself over it.

    For the glass tint, removing won't be easy, but yah, you can take it off. It's a glue activated by water (the soap is to help slide the film into place). At the very worst, you can use a single-edge razor blade- make sure it's a fresh new one, and change it a couple of times so the edge stays sharp. Do it right, all you'll need to do is catch a corner, then peel it back like tape on fresh paint.

    For the elephant snot, a product like Goof Off works well. Try on a hidden spot first so you can see if it will wreck the paint.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Depending on what it is, white spirit (aka dry cleaning fluid) or maybe kero or turps will likely work on the adhesive but spares the paint. Thinners may attack the paint, but should attack old adhesive. If you will then use a spray adhesive, Wurth seems to sell a better product than almost anyone else. 3M Super Trim adhesive (#77 from memory) was the go to trim adhesive product, but wasn't available (VOC concerns) when I wanted it a couple of years ago. Or just do what all previous owners / bodgers have done and apply some more glue and stick it all back together.

    The razor blade method is very slow with dry film, but you may be able to get under an edge and pull it off in strips. However, it seems you may be able to soak the film for several hours and then peel it off. 3M appear to suggest wetting the film with soapy water and placing a sheet of plastic over it to soak the film. As the glass is out, it should be easy to keep it wet. I guess the backyard pool has another use.

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    Fellow Frogger! JAJEA's Avatar
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    Hi Peter, may I ask which 3M Crystalline film you have used?

    Regards,

    John

    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, I have removed all the glass and had it coated with the 3M crystalline film. In a blond (OK, grey) moment, I messed up the marking of the rear door glass. I now have two identical rear door glasses instead of mirror images. This means one glass is correct, the other has the film on the outside and is wrong.

    The metal strip at the bottom has a lip on one side. Does that lip face the door skin or the door card? Does it matter?

    The way I'm performing, I'll pick the wrong one to have stripped and re-done and end up with both wrong.

    Thanks

    Peter

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Depending on what it is, white spirit (aka dry cleaning fluid) or maybe kero or turps will likely work on the adhesive but spares the paint. Thinners may attack the paint, but should attack old adhesive. If you will then use a spray adhesive, Wurth seems to sell a better product than almost anyone else. 3M Super Trim adhesive (#77 from memory) was the go to trim adhesive product, but wasn't available (VOC concerns) when I wanted it a couple of years ago. Or just do what all previous owners / bodgers have done and apply some more glue and stick it all back together.
    Or you could move with times, most 'modern' cars use a butyl tape (very sticky) which allows you to fit and remove the vinyl seals as required and still maintain a good seal. On seeking this product I came up with a Honda part number 08712-0003 (white), but any butyl tape supplied in small rolls e.g. . .
    http://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-R.../dp/B002CXGSKY

    Cheers
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    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Isn't that the sort of soft black mastic strip you jam up under a D windscreen to seal it? Could be a bit messy if it's the same stuff. Many recent door membranes are held in place with a clear (maybe it's white) adhesive strip about 1/4 inch wide. It usually comes stuck to the membrane and you just peel and stick a new membrane on the door, but I'd guess it's also available in a roll somewhere. It will stick back to itself after it's cut with a razor or pulled apart and you don't risk getting black goo on your trim.

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Isn't that the sort of soft mastic strip you jam up under a D windscreen to seal it? Could be a bit messy. Many recent door membranes are held in place with a clear adhesive strip about 1/4 inch wide. It usually comes stuck to the membrane and you just peel and stick a new membrane on the door, but I'd guess it's also available in a roll somewhere. It will stick back to itself after it's cut with a razor or pulled apart and you don't risk getting black goo on your trim.
    Yes that's the challenge, a clear rubberised adhesive that doesn't set and remains sticky. I've read the Honda product is a bit goopy and partially transfers from one surface to the other so could be quite messy. More research needed


    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    I took all the tint off windows with a steam cleaner, one of those karcher $90 jobs from bunnings. You blast a small area to get a blade under it and then patiently keep blasting and peeling, the beauty of this method is it takes the glue with it, and if done carefully you take off the whole sheet in one piece.

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Hello, this company is the UK distributor. They also apply the film. I got an 'end of roll deal' after they had done a fleet of London Transport double decker buses. The film I chose, CR90, can be used on all the glass, including the windscreen. They will also be removing the errant film.
    I could have chosen a film with much more heat reduction but I don't like the gangster, blacked out, look

    http://www.auto-films.co.uk/ranges/3m-crystalline/

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    Fellow Frogger! JAJEA's Avatar
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    Thanks Peter.

    I too concur re blacked out windows - especially the front!

    Any Idea how it performs with the rear heated window?

    A job for the future for me.

    Regards,

    John

    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, this company is the UK distributor. They also apply the film. I got an 'end of roll deal' after they had done a fleet of London Transport double decker buses. The film I chose, CR90, can be used on all the glass, including the windscreen. They will also be removing the errant film.
    I could have chosen a film with much more heat reduction but I don't like the gangster, blacked out, look

    3M Crystalline Range

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    Fellow Frogger! Fingers's Avatar
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    The bloke that I get to tint windows uses a steamer to remove old tint, works quite well.

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    I've never had a working heated rear window. This a new rear screen so it should work. The film should stop the element oxidising, it will also stop abrasion. The company says there is no problem with using the heated screen. All will be revealed.
    While I'm waiting for engine parts, I've been installing relays for the rear window, both fans (driver and passenger side), both lots of horns and the starter solenoid. I'm trying to give the switches all the help I can

    Peter

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